System Three epoxy resin is their mainstay offering, and fits well into over 90% of all epoxy applications. It is a solvent-free unfilled medium-modulus system formulated for use with any of three hardeners (slow, medium, and fast used depending on pot life, set time, and temperature).
Mixed at a 2:1 ratio, System Three epoxy has excellent pot life and cure-time control. It is frequently used for new wooden boat construction and repair, gel coat blister repair, general fiberglass boat repair, coating, and general fiberglass work.
Combine this versatile resin with different fillers to create excellent adhesive, filleting and fairing compounds. Available in quart, gallon, 5 gallon, and 55 gallon quantities.
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Resin Technical Specs
Mix ratio by Volume: 100:50
Mix ratio by Weight: 100:44
Total Solids: 100 Percent
Mixed Viscosity: 950 cps
Mixed Color: Light Amber
Tensile Strength: 6000 psi
Tensile Elongation: 11 percent
Flexural Strength: 12,500 psi
Flexural Modulus: 350,000 psi
Compressive Strength: 12,000 psi at yield
Coverage: 150 square Ft/Gal at 10 mils
Maximum Service Temperature: 160 degrees F
System Three Cure Schedule
Pot Life at 77 degrees F
Set Time at 77 degrees F
Cure Time at 77 degrees F
1 Fast Hardener
2 Medium Hardener
3 Slow Hardener
Use protective gloves when working with epoxy. Use soap and water or white vinegar to get it off of your hands. Use Denatured Alcohol to clean off your tools.
can i use a brush to aplay?
Yes. You should cut the first third of the bristles.
i dont have a sprayer how else can i do it?
How does the UV in sunlight affect this product?
I really do not have a clue. I use Systems 3 as a top coat for table tops, lazy susan tops, etc. All indoor stuff.
You need to put at least one or two coats of a good UV-resistant varnish over this product; it does not resist UV on its own.
In my experience it causes the product to yellow. I think that most epoxy manufacturers recommend that the epoxy be painted after curing.
Most all epoxy products break down from UV exposure and System Three is no exception. In areas where I have no concern I have seen it turn milky and brittle. It should always be coated with a quality marine varnish, automotive clear coat, or automotive or marine paints.
Ultraviolet light breaks down the chemical bonds in cured epoxy. The more direct the light, the quicker the breakdown. Initially the film will dull and turn yellowish, followed by chalking and film cracking. In intense tropical sunlight, total breakdown will happen in about 1-1/2 years.
what is the best way to remove old epoxy and fiberglass that has delaminated from my deck where excess water has sat over the years?
Recently I needed to remove epoxy and fiberglass from a cedar strip kayak that I was building. I had mad a mistake and needed to redo a section. I used a heat gun and that softened the epoxy so that I could easily peel up the fiberglass/epoxy. This left a good surface and it was easy to reapply ne glass/epoxy.
Sorry - I do not have an answer. We use the epoxy in a potting fashion and not on furniture.
i need it to be white in color?
In our experience it dries opaque (cloudy), not clear or white.
That's not a problem,just order the white coloring agent
the resin itself once cured has a transparent yellow tone to it.to get it white you will need to add white pigments for epoxy.google "Epoxy Pigment Paste" and you'll find even source at System-3 itself
I want to bond some Brazilian Redwood 2x2 in a scarf joint 18" long. Would you recommend system 3?
Yes, I have used system 3 extensively and prefer using it over the other epoxies. Addition of silica filler is strongly recommend for bonding scarf joints
Gluing end grain to end grain is always a problem, especially with high oil contents woods like rosewood. System Three Epoxy is probably your best choice for what you want to do.Wipe the surfaces to be glued with a solvent, like acetone, to remove the natural oils prior to your glue-up.
If a small amount of force, after bonding,is all that is required.than it should be ok.
I haven't used System 3 with Brazilian redwood but I have used it with other types; oak, ash, mahogany, cherry, maple, with great success, as well as ocume plywood.
Sorry, we are not using the resign in a wood application so cannot confirm it's performance with wood.
Thanks Will. I am making some toe rails for a 26' Oday Outlaw, a 1967 vintage Phillip Rhodes design.Sam
Jon, Brazilian redwood is very hard and dense. Other name is Massaranduba. Do you think the system 3 would penetrate?
I used System 3 with silica to bond scarf joints in mahogany, redwood and plywood in building my boat. I am no master epoxy, guy, but incannsay it worked beautifully, and has held up for 10+ years even on raios that are scarfed and heavily bent. I have also used basic System3 epoxy for laminating and finishing. I keep coming back to them.
I use System Three to bond mesquite and pecan wood and it works great. I have not used it on Brazilian Redwood but I would think it would work just fine.
It is a hard wood,Tha use of adhesives of any kind is moderately likely.
SAM,I would use the epoxy and than dowel the two pieces together for strength.
how much is 1 gallon of resin and 1/2 gallon of medium hardner?
one and one half gallons
According to the Jamestown website, as of November 25, 2014,a gallon of System Three resin is $90.47.A half gallon of medium hardener is $64.61.Your shipping costs would be additional and may vary.How did this question get sent to previous customers when the current prices are on the website?
Is this a boat finish or do I need to coat it to prevent water from whitening it?
After you apply the systems III epoxy you will need to apply 3-5 coats of a marine quality varnish. I used a brand called systems III spar urethane varnish. It will turn whitish after enough sun time if you don't apply the varnish.
Epoxy must be protected from UV rays. I use 2 or 3 coats of resin then 2 of clear coat then finish with varnish with UV protection. Bill
Epoxy resins are not UV resistant and must be overcoated to protect against deterioration when exposed to sunlight.
Sorry I am unable to help you. I used this product for an indoor rocking chair.
Dave; You can use this epoxy to cover bare wood, with or without fiberglass cloth, but it needs to be top coated with either paint or varnish to protect from ultraviolet light. The ultraviolet light will degrade the epoxy if it is not coated with an ultraviolet inhibitor.
I have a home made plywood boat with a polyurethane gloss painted finish. I need to seal the joints at the keel and chines and would like to use a fiberglass tape and epoxy paint. Will the expoxy adhere to the polyurethane painted surface and which epoxy product ahould I use? Thanks
I have only used the epoxy on bare wood, so I am unable to help you. I contacted the company's customer service with my questions and found them extremely helpful; I suggest you contact them also.Good luck with your project.Walter
Ralph I would not try adhering the epoxy to a polyurethane finish. You should sand down to bare wood to get the best adhesion. Then you will need to apply some type of coating with ultraviolet protection to protect the epoxy. I have used both system 3 and MAS epoxy and have been pleased with the results of both. Ken
We applied System Three epoxy, mixed two of part A to one of part B, to a polyester resin canoe with a foam roller. We used eight ounces of part A and four ounces of part B and the resulting 12 ounces was just right for the canoe as web ad very little left and it was beginning to set up just after we finished. It looks good however we want to put another coat on and then paint with marine paint.We cannot help with the po
We Cannot help with the compatibility of epoxy with polyurethane so we suggest that he acquire a small sample and test it where it would do little damage and can be easily removed if unsatisfactory.
Could this be used for a kiteboard and does this kit come with everything I need?
And for a smaller quantity of both resin and hardener?
This is only the resin. You will need to also order hardener, and any fiberglass you may need.
have you ever used this for a countertop? i am doing a project my counter frame is 6'L x 32' W x 1 1/2 " thick i'm trying to figure how much i will need to fill in to make it solid.i am putting in beer caps , pictures and 6 (1/2' frames )thanks Ron P from Mi
If I understand your question correctly, you are proposing to use System 3 standard epoxy resin as a "tabletop" resin, i.e. a shiny, clear resin that can be poured in a deep layer and will level almost like a piece of glass. Answer: Don't do it. System 3 isn't that kind of product, and trying to use it that way won't work. Find and use "tabletop" epoxy resin. As for how much to buy, read and follow directions.
I laminated some wood pieces together and only used 1 oz of epoxy.It sounds as if you are filling in the 6' frame with 1 1/2" of the epoxy? You would have to determine the cubic inches of area.Sorry, I can't help you further.
Worked as advertised.
I am in the process of building a cedar strip canoe and I have been nervous about applying epoxy resin due to the number of less than pleasant experiences I have read about. Additionally, I was concerned about odors since my experience with resin was limited to use of a polyester resin used years ago. The memory of that sickly-sweet smell still lingers.I am happy to say that System 3 epoxy resin worked very well. It made the grain and color pop. I almost feel bad that I have to sand it for smoothness. Also, I am very happy to say this product has hardly any detectable smell - definitely a far cry from polyester resin.The free System 3 booklet titled "The Epoxy Book" is definitely worth a read.
I will use this product again
I used this product on a canoe I built about ten years past and had good results on my first build. I have decided to build to a Kayak for my wife, I was hoping that the "system" was still available because when I find something that works I stick with it. Easy to Mix,easy to use for great results. Dan B. Heron MT
Cures super clear
Bought this epoxy resin to build a new hatch for the floor of my Center Console fishing boat. I used the medium hardener to allow a little more working time. The resin mixed well and dried to a super clear finish. I almost hate to cover the finish with any gelcoat it is so pretty and clear.
Excellent despite the lack of hype
Should offer larger containers of hardener
Wooden kayak magic
A forgiving and temperature tolerant epoxy for strip building kayaks
Worked for me
I repaired a hole in the hull while it was on the trailer. Did about eight layers of glass. Good instructions and lots of information on how to fix stuff.
This is great stuff
I use the med and it was just right for working in the shop @ 63 degrees
Very good product
Not as hard as West System when cured, though this may be desirable in some applications where some flexibility is desired.
on / or in the water
I've used System Three products for years with never a disappointment. I've used S3 to repair canoes, kayaks and small wood boats, house trim, antique newel post and a variety of woodworking projects. I weigh the resin and hardener with a postage scale and mix it in cheap paper bowels from the grocery store. I mix thoroughly for sixty seconds. Mix resin the same way every time and you'll have consistent results.
Reliable epoxy resin
I'm using System Three Epoxy to re-sheath an old plywood trimaran. I've used it with the fast and the medium hardener. In both cases it has provided a reliable layup - the working times quoted for the product are very accurate. Good adhesion to old wood and nice finish on the final layer. Mixed with a 50/50 mix of cabosil and microballoons makes an excellent, easily sanded filler and fairing material.I've used West System and it is an excellent resin too. The flexibility of the System Three might be better on hulls where more flex is needed. I've used the West resin on some structural elements where a stiffer resin makes more sense (i.e. daggerboard trunk and bulkheads)