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Dynel is a popular laminate fabric used for museum-quality restoration work on wooden boats. It's strong and yet supple like a true woven fabric, with no fibers to irritate your skin.
Dynel fabric has very high abrasion resistance but swells in the resin such that it works better if vacuum bagged or pressure molded. The most common uses of dynel are for wear patches on boats, edgings on paddles, and the like. It has also been used as a deck covering on wooden sailboats. It seems to be a good choice anywhere that abrasion is a major issue. This Dynel Fabric retains a milky appearance when saturated rather than turning clear in the resin like fiberglass.
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High abrasion resistance
Wide, plain weave
Is this fabric made from modacrylic or polyester fiber?
David St. John
No clue. Ask a chemist.
I'm not sure of the true composition of the material but if you google it there is plenty of sites they explain it composition and uses. Personally I purchased it for its strength and impact resistance.
My understanding is that it is an acrylic fiber rather than a polyester although we have not analyzed it directly.
iS DYNEL APPLIED THE SAME AS FIBERGLASS DECKING?
Dynell cloth is applied same as glass. It s advantages are that it is easier to handle and bends around corners better. Disadvantages are that is soaked up a bit more resin and is a little more expensive. Works wonderful with epoxie, I have never used it with polyester. Good luck.
Very easy to work with but more resin and leaves a heavy texture finish
Yes, basically, but there are some differences from fiberglass cloth. It seems to take more epoxy to wet out, and it doesn't turn clear like glass cloth - stays white - so not good to use if you are planning a bright finish. And, be careful about lumps and bumps in the cloth, because it is very hard to sand once the epoxy has cured (but that is the point of using it - much more abrasion resistant than fiberglass)
Much easier then fiberglass,first I applied epoxy on the (wooden ) deck,after two days washed the deck,abrase it a bit, then put the dynel and applied epoxy over it, compared to fiberglass it was really easy. You can do it also without the first layer, but it depends on the quality of the deck, mine needed repairment. good luck with your workbest regardspavle
Yes, it's applied exactly like fiberglass cloth. It takes a little longer to wet out, but be patient. After you squeegee off the excess epoxy and it cures, the surface will feel rough like sand. If you choose to fill the weave, it will take more epoxy than fiberglass. Great product! Covered the entire hull and decks of a 17' jet sled, filled the weave on the hull, and the paint job turned out great. I applied tintable Raptor truck bed liner to the decks for a bullet proof finish.
Hello:My report must be very incomplete because I have not used the boats since I applied the dynel to them. I liked the dynel over the other frp cloth I have used. The weave is tighter and thus easier to fill with less coats of epoxy. Adhesion to both existing fibre glass and bare wood seems to be better than 'glass cloth to old 'glass or wood. Good luck Rikk Stocking
Hi, I have a 1957 Matthews and I have stripped the cabin top and now want to replace the fiberglass with Dynel anyone have any suggestions using this product for this application?Thanks, Captain Brian
Captain Brian,Dynel is a great product for your purpose. I first encountered it when a friend used it on the deck of his commercial fishing boat back in the seventies. Gannon and Benjamen, the noted wooden boat builders on Martha's Vineyard use it when their client doesn't want canvas. It looks like canvas when applied. I'm building a seventy foot scow schooner, very traditional, yet I used it on companionway houses. You can use epoxy with it, or polyester. If you're experienced, or careful, you can wait until the the coating is almost set, then, with a strait edge or a batten, you can trim right through the Dynel for a perfect fit.
I suggest you iron the fabric thoroughly before you lay it out and adhere it; any little wrinkle will be hard to remove if you don't. I used Tightbond III waterproof wood glue as the adhesive and it has held up nicely.
Dynel is a terrific choice if you want a no-slip surface. After you apply it and the epoxy is cured, the surface will feel like sandpaper. Simply paint it and you are good to go. If you want a smooth surface, you will have to apply several more epoxy coats to fill the weave, sand it, and apply a few more coats. Dynel is very abrasion resistant.
For an excellent non-slip effect, I rolled down epoxy on a new plywood deck and then rolled out the Dynel making sure the weave aligned nicely with the vessel centerline. I let the epoxy tack up and then added another coat but this time I used a yellow plastic squeegee and scraped fairly agressively to fully wet the fabric and then remove much of it exposing the weave so as to have a good non-slip surface. Watch the surface carefully in the light to avoid uneven epoxy. When the epoxy in "green" or firm but not hard, trim with a razor knife. After a few days of cure, wash, allow to dry, and then paint but do not fill the weave with too much paint, then enjoy. My project was a 20' launch. Yours will require additional planning due to its larger size. Good Luck. Symphony Boat Company. Duluth, MN.
Hi, Captain BrianI,m now building Dunlin 22, the 22ft wooden power boat designed by Sam Devlin. I've sheathed Dynel over the exterior hull, but not yet finished construction.So I can not give you the advantage of Dynel.But Mr. Devlin says in his 'Instruction' "We are also fans of using Dynel cloth as a sheathing layer on the exterior of the boat, the major advantage of Dynel is that when stressed the fibers can stretch slightly within the epoxy matrix and not fracture. Imagine your beautiful boat coming into a dock at too fast of a speed and hitting the dock with a bang, even perhaps hitting a spike sticking out of the dock. The Dynel cloth will most likely not fracture in this area, where the stiffer glass cloth sheathing might fracture in the same instance. So you have a choice here, use the more flexible and stretchable Dynel cloth or use the stiffer but less stretchable Fiberglass cloth for your sheathing. Either will work fine for most boats and most intended service duties."I wish Devlin's instruction in the above may help you!Thanks,Backyard boatbuilder Chang, Kim
I have done a new construction Project with a Dynel sheath on the outside of the hull.I found and watched one of the videos that are in the Jamestown DIY Library after the fact and learned a bunch of things that I wished I had known prior to doing my project the way I did.The most important pointer is that Dynel floats to the surface of an Epoxy wet-Out (hold that thought). My technique, such as it was: I draped the material just like Fiberglass cloth and wetted it out in place.It takes a great deal of epoxy to wet it out but , what I did not realize as I wetted it, was that by adding more epoxy to ensure its saturation I was floating the fabric of the hull surface.Dynel wets out very easily so just wet the initial application enough to ensure that it is bubble free and smoothly laid on the surface you are covering.It will be extremely rough after the epoxy sets.Then plan on at least 2 coats of epoxy to fill the cloth with a Roll and tip second coat to get the surface to smooth out. Add coats to suit your taste. Apply these secondary coats as soon as possible after the initial fabric wet-out sets.I used MAS Flag Epoxy on the post Wet-Out coats because it puts down a thicker application layer but, still flows and fills very well.At this point you are ready to fair and prep for paint
I've never used regular fiberglass, having only covered my hull in dynel. It was easy to use, having the feel and texture of cotton or a common fabric. It absorbed epoxy easily, so I didn't have any air pockets under the fabric to speak of. That's all I can say on it. I didn't try and bright finish anywhere where I used it, having just covered it in paint.
It leaves a rough texture finish do a sample on something else
I've not tried the dynel yet, but it may work well for your application. A book by Ruel Parker discusses use of dynel fabric in building his wood/epoxy boats.
If I order "QTY 4 yards" of Dynel I'm assuming that this would be one piece 4 yards long and not 4 packages of 1 yard each?? Sorry to be so silly, I just hate to assume things. Thanks, Bob Rodgers
This is sold by the yard.
dynel for kayak rubstrips
i use dynel to make (and repair) custom rubstrips on strip built and stitch and glues kayaks i make.great, inexpensive product that does the job. use saran wrap to compress it down once wetted out to get a nice finished surface without a lot of extra work. for rubstrips, you want a smooth surface so the saran wrap helps avoids the need for filling and sanding work.in the picture below of the latest boat i am building below - i integrate into the keel line 3 layers of dynell from the knuckly of the bow and stern about two inwards with graphite infused epoxy. very clean, streamlined arrangement.
This is the best material to make a non-slip surface when finished with epoxy. It also has the appearance of canvas fabric and can be shaped around sharp turns in the shape of the surface, unlike fibreglass cloth.
do it yourself dynel rub-strips
i build my own kayaks and use dynel fabric to make rub strips to protect the bow and stern. some places will sell you a 'rub-strip kit'.....but in the end, it is just several pieces of dynel cloth bias cut two inches wide by 18 to 24 inches in length.bought a yard of the dynel cloth from jamestown and cut my own strips. easy to do with a sharp pair of scissors. plenty of material to do a dozen kayaks for the cost of one 'rub-strip kit' (which will do only one kayak with no material to spare).
when you apply epoxy to Dynel the cloth will swell or double in thickness which pronounces the weave. DO NOT SAND SMOOTH, best way to fill the weave is to mix epoxy and a easy sanded filler and squeegee on, then epoxy over once its smooth. Wont beat it for bottoms that are beached a lot or skinny water boats
use this for structure and wear at keel and chine. needs to have several coats of west sys to fair it out, add some white pigment until you cant see fabric anymore