Dolfinite is a flexible, semi paste bedding compound. Its slow oxidizing waterproof formula makes it ideal for bedding in joints in keels, stem, sternpot, transom, battens and other hull components. Use it to bed deck fittings, moldings, and trim around deck houses.
Use Dolfinite on wood, metal, or fiberglass wherever waterproof seals are required. It can applied by hand, pressure gun, or putty knife. Thinning is not normally required. Once the compound has firmly skinned over, you can even paint over it.
It can also be used as a double planking compound in the construction of double planked hulls where canvas is not used. Apply a liberal coat with a serrated trowel on the inner layer before laying up the outer planking.
Pettit does not state a shelf life on this product. Generally that means you should get a number of years if stored properly, but if you are concerned, you can always contact Pettit and inquire.
JD Tech Associate
Based on limited experience, I'd say years, maybe decades if you keep the can sealed.
Great question. In fact, I have the same question - I purchased my Dolfinite 2 years ago and still have not opened the can. It would be appreciated if you would share your answer with me.
Once the can is opened, it sets up within two or three months.Â Buy the smallest can for the job.Â I do not know the shelf life of an un-opened can. I do love dolphinite,however, and use it for all above-the- waterline bedding jobs.
Comparing Interlux 214 Boatyard Bedding Compound and Dolphanite: The tech specs on 214 say wood has to be painted and sealed. I've never painted or sealed wood pieces I've bedded to fiberglass with either product but it sounds like a good idea. Thoughts? Also 214 specs say to use Fiberglass Wash 202 and Special Thiner and 216 Wipe Down. I've never used chem's to clean or wipe down but maybe I should have. Thoughts? Thanks
I have used Dolphanite bedding compound when restoring a wooden boat. I used it when replacing a transom and the new wood had not yet been primed. I do not have any experience with it with fiberglass.
Hi Bob, the 202/216 wipe down is just to remove surface contaminants which is generally a good convention so that the product can perform its best. Painting and sealing the wood is just to help preserve the wood and protect it from the elements. This part of it is more subject to the customer's preference, but doing a solvent wipe before hand is a good idea to reduce the possibility of contaminants.
JD Tech Associate
after setting up for a week can dolfinite bedding compound be sanded?
It will skin over, but I don't think it will be sandable unless just a light scuff.
JD Tech Team
I have a carvel planked wood cruiser. Was wondering if I can use this product between the rudder block and the cedar planks and also between the bottom cedar planks and cedar shingles for water proofing? Thanks
All I can say is that I've used it successfully on my Catspaw dingy. It's good stuff.
I'm not sure if I understand how you are using the product but it is generally considered a bedding (between joinery) and is not a "water proofing" product.
I would not recommend this as a underwater compound. You would be better with brown seam compound or a product like 5200 if you are not concerned about the strong bonding attribute.
Dolfinite is bedding, not caulking. It is not adhesive, and probably will not stay in place in a seam or other immersion setting. Meant to exclude moisture in relatively tight wood joints, or for sealing hardware mountings. Manufacturer's spec sheet should provide a better answer, and perhaps mfg could also recommend best material for your application.
I used this product to seal the seam where plywood bottom meets the keel on a small wooden boat; I used it with cotton caulk wicking getting both into seam with a putty knife. Its been water tight for over 2 years. Hope this helps.
Yes, these are good places to use this bedding product.
Yes, the bedding compound can be used above and below the waterline. It is used between metal and wood as well as between woods.
I need to restore a carvel planked Columbia tender. The boat was hardly used, then sat in a barn for about 20 years. The planks are in perfect condition, but they have shrunk to expose the oakum and a couple joints that you can see through. I intend to use this boat only occaisionally, thus it will continue to live on a trailer. What product should I use to bed these joints before repainting?
I agree that Dolfinite will help. I just reframed the transom on my 1951 Lyman using the product. You should lightly caulk the seams you can see through. Do not force it tight. Using a hose and some burlap or old towels and add some moisture to the interior of the hull. Let it drain and dry for about two days and then pay the outside of the hull seams with Dolfinite. After 3or 4 days you can use the hose and put 3or4" of water in the boat to soak it up before using. Repeat the hose treatment a day or so ahead of each time you are to launch. I soak the Lyman before each use!
Thank you Todd. You answered both of my real questions. I thought the old cotton could stay in, but.... And, I didn't know the difference between the above and below waterline seam compounds, but was pretty sure I didn't need to use both. Also, a great thought about just priming at first. Thanks again!
Product instructions say you can use Dolfinite under water so it might work once open seams are caulked. I have used it only as a bedding compound above the waterline and it's super for that, especially on wooden boats.
Thank you Frank. Perhaps this isn't rocket science after all, and what I need to do is simply GET STARTED.
Thanks for the tips Jerauld. I had been wondering about the effectiveness of preswelling from the inside before use as you describe. Sounds like a good plan.
I used dolfinite bedding compound with cotton wicking to seal seams on a small wooden boat . After trying different products I found this to be excellent. You may need something heavier than cotton wicking, but I would try dolfinite bedding compound with it. Frank - Long Lake, NY
Complete is good, thanks again. I did plan to use Interlux compound, but not having used it before, I didn't know how to choose white or brown. I posed the same question on a Wooden Boat forum some time ago and all I got were the textbook answers about white above and brown below. I really don't want to be a pest, but perhaps you'd help me in another area.... The original paint on the boat is of course separated at all the seams. After reefing out the loose cotton, I figured I'd give her a good sanding, but not trying to remove all the remaining original paint. Does this seem reasonable? And is there a particular primer you might suggest. I'll likely finish with Brightside just to keep it in the Interlux family.
Emrick, just to be complete in my response. Dolfinite is not the correct product for the seam compound. You want to Interlux White 31 compound.
Hi,Any loose oakum needs to be reefed out. Seems should be primed and then new cotton or oakum set into the seam. There are two types of seam compound to use. White for above the water line and brown for below. If this boat will stay on a trailer then I would go with the white as it is much easier to work with. I would only prime the boat at first as the seams will take up moisture when first back into the water. Have a good bilge pump handy.After the boat swells the seam compound will bulge out. Use a sharpe edge tool to scrape back to surface and then do your final paint job.
Whether to remove the original paint or not depends on its condition. If it is tight and the hull is fair then you can scuff sand it and top coat. I am a big fan of Top Secret Coatings. Expensive but superlative product. The SM-1000 worked great on my 42' sloop
how long to dry ?
Dolfinite does not dry. This product has been around forever and is still the best bedding compound. It's purpose is for bedding only. The compound stays soft allowing hardware or wood parts to be remove at a later date with out damaging surfaces. Sorry to see Jamestown does not carry the mahogany.
We use as a bedding compound or a plyable filler when exterior heavy timber checking happens. It isn't really made to dry, just skin over. We will often install, wipe clean excess with a rag lightly soaked in mineral spirits. Wait a day then prime.
As a more natural bedding compound it isn't going to dry like 3m 4200. That's what makes it nice, you can easily remove bedded items. Best for deck fittings. It will wash out under water if filling gaps. Good stuff.
The dolfinite product is an original linseed oil based product. It does not actually dry, or 'cure'. It stays pliable in between the double planking or plank to batten as the boat is constructed. In time, two to three weeks I'd estimate, the material that squeezes out of the joints does develop a hard skin.
Dolfinite is a bedding compound not an adhesive sealant such as BoatLife or Sikaflex. It does not 'set' but remains pliable for years. Be sure to seal bare wood before applying Dolfinite as it will absorb the oils that keep it pliable. Regular glazing compound works pretty well and comes in tubes. Simon WattsSan Francisco
Really, it never completely dries. It stays a bit flexible to seal bedded fittings. It skins over in two to three days depending on temperature, etc. Then it's easy to clean away the excess you squished out when you snugged the fitting. Great stuff!
Dolfinite is a traditional material. It is used to fill the space between mating parts such as deck hardware or wood plank joints. This would keep out moisture. Ideally, bedding compound will take years to dry, so when you have to take the joint apart it will separate with a couple of gentel taps.
Want to bed teak deck on top of fiberglass is this the proper product to stop water from coming in?
Fellow Customer, I have been building and restoring sailboats since the 70Â•Ã€_??s and I rely upon and never have had any problems what so ever with Dolfinite Bedding Compound providing the back side of the rail or plank has been sealed with a thin coat of shellac. The shellac prevents the compound oils from soaking into the wood and drying out; a marine grade varnish will work just as well. When cleaning up Dolfinite squeeze out, I let the material age overnight. Next morning I run a tool made of soft pine that looks like a skew chisel and has been sanded to a single bevel on one side, along the squeezed out bead of compound. The softness of the wooden tool prevents damage to either surface and actually does a better job than a putty knife will. Best of all, one does not have to clean it cause it is disposable! These are just my opinion but have never failed me.
I am just getting ready to remove various hardware and safety rail stanchions on a 1974 contessa 26. Is this a good product to use for bedding when I put these parts back after (or before)painting?
It is a great bedding compound. I use it for all of my deck bits. I use the Natural version because I am bedding on brightwork. Not sure what options there may be for fiberglass.
I'm no expert, but it was great for bedding my spreaders, depending on the color I would do it before painting. Hope it helps.
A good product, used it to bed hardware after I had the boat painted.
It will work fine. Like any bedding compound, initial tightening needs to be re tightened after it has taken its initial set. It is a little messy to work with, butyl tape is another real good product.
You can't do better than Dolfinite.Simon Watts
how long is the curing time for 2005n ?
It is designed not to cure or harden, so it always stays flexible to keep a nice seal.
2 to 3 days at around 70 degrees
Happy but cautiously optimistic camper..
It doesn't actually cure but rather gets dry on the outside while the inside stays flexible as it is meant to do. This allows for easier disassembly of parts .It will start to dry in about a week depending on temp/humidity.
I found dolfinite to be waterproof immediatey for use on my handrails and toenails. The compound hardens over time and unwanted overspill should be removed immediately.
CHRISTOPHER P WEIS
Dolfinite is not an adhesive sealant so has no curing time. It will slowly skin over in the course of a few days but remains pliable enough for the joint to be dismantled years later. Be sure to seal the wood surfaces so the oils remain to maintain this pliability.
Sorry no help. Our order had to be canceled due to a shipping problem
Bedding compound by definition remains flexible and never cures hard. The idea is that you can come back years later to a properly bedded plank or object, give it a gentle tap, and off it comes. It may cure hard around the edges but remain gooey inside. This means that if you bed hardware you will have to clean up the mess with mineral spirits when you remove it for varnishing etc. The good news is that moisture can't collect under the hardware and cause rot.
We have an old cat boat that we want to re canvas the deck. The boat has a ply wood deck with new trim to hold the canvas in place. I have heard or read that Dolfinite is a good product for this. what is the coverage for bedding the canvas?
I think Dolfinite is really intended for bedding fittings, trim, etc. Not sure about using it for a whole deck. This sounds like a question to toss out to the experts on the WoodenBoat Magazine forum.
This is now my new go to product...
Refinished the bowsprit and pulpit this summer (two weeks of work that I don't want to do again) and decided to use Dolfinite bedding compound, after consulting with JD customer service... I used a putty knife to apply, which was super easy! I was a little worried about the clean up, after reading some of the reviews, but a little mineral spirits and a couple rolls of paper towels did the trick! I used the natural color, which transitions from the teak much better than the previous white butyl rubber.
Bought this because the rudder that I was refinishing had the bolts bedded in this and it was easy to remove because it was still soft. after I don't know how many years.
used to bed cockpit seats
I used this bedding compound to bed teak cockpit seats. It was easy to use.
Lake Hopatcong NJ
Somewhat messy for setting smaller parts on boat, but cleans up fairly easily.
Works As Advertised
Material stays flexible and waterproof but can leave stains that are difficult to remove from areas it is spilled on or squeezes out to. Taping adjacent areas is essential to a good clean job that leaves the sealing compound only where you want it - under the deck hardware you are bedding. If you are tired of deck hardware that wicks or traps moisture under it, causing the usual rot and freeze crack headaches, this is the stuff to use. But be sure to keep plenty of acetone and paper towels on hand for cleanup - it's very sticky and messy.
Extinguisher of Small Fires
Keeps water out, paintable too!
I use this to bed stem bands and keels on wood canvas canoes. It is messy, and sticky, but that's a good thing for a bedding compound. I dip screws in it to seal the threads from water intrusion. Easily faired with a putty knife or your finger. Great stuff, last for years, never seems to get hard and crumple. Can be painted in a few hours after it skins over.
The best bedding compound.
This is far better than adhesive caulks if you may want to remove something later.
Good for seating hardware and trim. I Use it for gunwales,outer stems, and keels on wood/canvas canoes. Semi=permanent; you can get them apart without destroying anything years later.
Grand Rapids, MI
I would buy this product again
I use this product as a general bedding compound for wood and metal.