A500 is a 5.0 lb. per cubic foot density foam ideal for hand lay-up applications. Its use minimizes the use of resin, saving time and money. It surpasses all previous limits of stiffness, impact strength and heat distortion temperature.
Core-Cell is the first structural foam designed specifically for the marine industry, and uses new SAN polymers rather than conventional PVC formulas derived from 1930's technology.
A500 Core-Cell is very similar to A550 Core-Cell. The only difference is the density, by .5lb/cubic ft.
Available in 2 x 4 ft, 4 x 4 ft and 4 x 8 ft sheets. 4' X 8' sheets must be picked up at our location or shipped via common carrier.
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Core-Cell foam has better handling and machining characteristics, does not out-gas and is compatible with all resin types.
Being closed cell, Core-Cell adds safety, comfort and reassurance to ocean going vessels and reduces condensation through insulation.
Core-Cell is preferred by professional builders and has an excellent reputation with amateurs for being easy to form around tight curves, but stiff enough to strip plank between temporary frames.
Is Core-Cell A500 similar to Mincell for applications such as laminating sheets for an ocean kayak seat?
No this is hard foam for stiffening fiberglass layup
A500 will be a much much more rigid and will only flex slightly as opposed to Minicell, which is very pliable.
JD Tech Associate
Can this material be used as a replacement for 1/4" thick cedar strips for constructing a sea kayak? Clear western red cedar has become increasingly hard to get in long lengths and very expensive. Assuming the same laminates on the inside and outside and the same resin how would the impact resistance of the two constructions compare?
No this is a balsa wood replacement.
I would say no, it does not flex to fit shapes. You need the scored version. The a500 is strong enough when used as a core with carbon & Kevlar.
Sorry! This is way out of my realm of expertise.
I'm not sure if this would quite fit the bill for you. Cedar strips are the strength for you, and have good flexibility. We do sell scored sheets that would have the flexibility, but with foam core, you are relying on a fabric or cloth material as the skin (fiberglass, kevlar, carbon, etc) to give it the strength and resilience, not the foam.
JD Tech Associate
I am going to build a flats skiff and was wondering if this material is adequate to build the hull with
from scratch, not using plans? too many variables to give a good answer. i have used it satisfactorly on deck and small hull repairs. Sent from my Boost Mobile Phone.
If you are making a comppsite with a foam core and are planning on vacuum bagging, should work great. If you are doing a lay up, results may be inconsistent due to resin spread. If you have a shop vac, duct tape, aquarium hose, visiline plastic and releasecloth you can vacuum the composite down and achive the results you are looking for. Jamestown dist. has a book available and good videos on line to watch. Not sure of your level of expertise and hope you don't take offense. Simple answer is yes, this stuffwill work fine.Get Outlook for Android
NO, unless you are getting the core cell for free and you have the equipment and experience to vacuum bag. Good marine plywood meeting BS1088 specs covered with 10 oz fiberglass cloth and epoxy is all you need to build a good solid skiff. I'd suggest using Silver Tip ready mixed fillet material for the sake of simplicity and less mess.
Yes, but only as a core material. Fiberglass or Kevlar on both sides. Sent from my iPad
I don't know. It would be best to research this on the web or find a boat builder and ask him.
This would probably be an adequate core material to start with for laminating to, but you may want to consult building plans or an engineer for specifics.
JD Tech Associate
I am replacing the waterlogged 5 1/2 inch foam core between the inside and outside fiberglass layers in the bottom of a 1978 work skiff. I need closed cell foam sheets that are stiff and provide floatation and can be easily formed/cut and epoxied into the the cavity between the layers. Is this the right product?
I used the Core-Cell foam to repair my fish box lids. The product is stiff and light weight. Easy to cut and shape. The sheets that I used were 1/2", epoxied to underside of lids to replace waterlogged plywood. Finished with fiberglass, no gel coat. Used West System with #404 additive. This was my first experience with any of these products, feel all went very smoothly and am very happy with the outcome. Nice stiff, solid lids. Virtually no flex under my 200+# weight.
I used it to repair center boards on my Hobie Cat sport cruiser21. The material has stood up well and was very easy to work with. Iayered it with fiberglass and painted it with gel coat. I woild think that it would work well for your application.
Yes it would work, also take a look at our Flotation Foam.https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2198
Adequate core replacement
Product cuts well, score it and break it along the lines. Make sure you saturate the core well with unthickened epoxy and bed it well in thickened epoxy. The core will not rot, but it will debond if not properly prepared as mentioned. It is not as good as coosa board for load areas, I use them together as required.
Building a gun stock using this and carbon fiber
Product was deformed
Opened up the product to find that the lines weren't straight and it was messed uo
Very useful for panel building. Good heat formability.
A great fix for a soggy core!
I used this to replace some waterlogged plywood core on my sliding deck hatch. I was easy to cut and flexed to accommodate the slight bow in the hatch cover. A few sandbags held it in place while the epoxy cured. The hatch is as strong as it was before but much lighter. I am going to tackle other soggy core projects now that I found this!
Core-Cell for Soft Deck Repair
Your comment system is daunting. Core-cell is fantastic for beefing up soft decks and cabin trunks where water has rotted balso or plywood. With the voids cleaned out and filled with the foam, the result is a laminate strength probably better than "as manufactured". I have also made bulkheads of two sheets of Kytex with Core-Cell sandwiched inside.Tricky to work with, expensive, but worth it, unquestionably. JD's prices are fair for this item.