SilverTip Laminating Resin is specifically intended for laminating applications. It is a med-low viscosity, liquid epoxy system optimized for coating and reinforcing fabric saturation in wood-composite boatbuilding.
Silvertip resin provides fast wet-out, no blush, and cures to a brilliant, colorless finish. Working time is longer than most boat building epoxies, without sacrificing cure time. Cured film is tough and resilient with better heat resistance than other room temperature cured epoxies.
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Mix Ratio by Volume: 100:50
Mix Ratio by Weight: 100:43
Total Solids: 100 percent
Mixed Viscosity: 700 cps
Mixed Color: Water White
Coverage: 150 square ft/Gal
Maximum Service Temp: 160 degrees F
Tensile Strength" 7,900 psi
Tensile Elongation: 8 percent
Flexural Strength: 420,000 psi
Flexural Modulus: 12,800 psi
Compressive Strength: 13,000 psi at yield, 26,000 psi at failure
Pot Life at 77 degrees F
Tack Free Time at 77 degrees F
Number Of Parts:
how long between coats and do I have to sand?
System three states you may wait up to 72 hours between coats. Rule of thumb is once a coat has cured to the point that it is tack free, you can begin the next coat. If the coat goes beyond 72 hours, you must sand before recoat.
You do not have to do anything to the first coat, as long as you apply the next coat within 20 hours, at 70 degrees (More time if it's cooler, less if it's warmer)
WILLIAM P FAHY
you have up to 24 hours without sanding. Theoretically, this product produces much less Amine blush, and therefore you do not have to wipe it down with acetone between coats. I do it anyway but it probably doesn't make any difference.I really do think it is product is easier to work with and produces a nicer finished lays down a little better close parentheses then other products such as the West system. You find yourself using more expensive brushes with it, however, so that may also play a role. I think it's worth the difference in price though.
I want to laminate some wood. I have some old system three silvertip laminating epoxy resin and hardner. I mixed up a small batch and it hardened just as I would expect it to. (Hard enough that I really had to "crank on it" to break a half dollar size piece 1/4 inch thick that I had put half into a vice and bending the other half) I have a friend who says it still might be bad and will be weak. He will still be my friend no matter what the answer is, but I hate to waste what appears to be perfectly good resin. Is this resin still good?
It will work just fine if the resin still sets up.
Can this laminating epoxy be used with fiberglass mat, in building up sectional molds of sculptures, instead of using polyester resin? I'm looking for a product that will not stink up my shop the way polyester resin does! Thanks for any help!
John- From what I know about this product and using it- Its purpose is to laminate glass cloth to wood - and provide a thin fill finish. It doesnt have that resin build up/ strength properties with mat and polyester resin combo. And it it expensive. I would probably look at their general resin - system three general resin product- half the cost and low smell. They also have great online resources available on their website. Cant find an answer ? Give them a call- system three provides great support with their products
Yes, but is significantly more expressive than poly and you should only use stitched mat. Epoxy and styrenes don't always play well together
does hardner come with a gal order?
There are 2 different kits that do come with the hardener, the kit with the slow hardener is part number STRSLR4 and the kit with the fast hardener is part number STRSLR3. Thank you.
Can I uses this over bare wood without fiberglass or addtional coatings other than varnish? Also can it be applied over Smiths Cold CPES Epoxy?Thanks
thank you... I'll definately take a look...
You can certainly use this without a layer of fiberglass but it will need something, like varnish, to block UV radiation. Not all varnish with stick properly to epoxy. I believe System Three makea a varnish especially for this purpose. I have also had success overcoating with Epiphanes. I've never used CPES so can't say for sure your epoxy will stick to it.
NORTH BROOKLIN BOATS
Thank you for the help... JD
In my experience, yes,. But System Three Clear Coat is a better choice as it has a lower viscosity and will penetrate the wood deeper. Check out the System Three website more detailed information. Good Luck!
Using it since 1998, excellent
I first used System 3, because it was included in a kayak building kit From Pygmy Boats. There was some left over so I used it as projects came up. I became a carpenter and since have used it in many wood repair projects, including restoring/molding rotten voids in antique windows, and wood floors. Laminating figured veneer to electric guitars, setting guitar necks, repairing broken guitar necks.
New Buffalo, MI
Used on a 30 Yr Old Fiberglass Canoe
I used this product to both patch holes with fiberglass cloth and to cover the whole canoe prior to painting it with an epoxy based paint. It was excellent for both these purposes. Using the plunger set made it very easy to mix in small batches which I applied using a 6 inch roller. With 2 Qts of resin and 1 Qt of hardener I was able to cover my 17ft canoe completely from bow to stern 4 times and I still had about a pint of resin remaining. That included patching 3 small holes (6 sq in) with a double fiberglass cloth and one large hole (12 sq in) with 4 fiberglass clothes. Each cloth was covered with resin at least 3 times. As a woodworker I can see future uses for this product in that craft also.
no blush works great with peel ply
vac bag, infusion, direct wet layup saturation over foam core using peel ply and spreaders