Prolonged exposure to water can permanently damage untreated wood. BoatLIFE Aquapoxy Wet Wood Epoxy is a two-part liquid epoxy that cures in the presence of water. It adds strength and stability to wood decks, and fills under buckled and warped planking, eliminating the need to replace planks. Use Aquapoxy to fill voids under decks, preventing accumulation of rot-causing water.
Note: Kit includes Part A, Part B, Mixing cup, Mixing Stick and Syringe.
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Does the Web Wood Epoxy have a strong odor? I'd like to use it at the deck about 10 feet from the cabin area where we sleep.
Yes, it will have a strong smell.
Need a product to seal a wooden transom. Will this work?
I used it on exterior wood with wet rot and it's still sound 3 years later, so I would guess yes
While I am not sure if Wet Wood Epoxy will infuse and cure in a wet vertical transom, I can say that it will cure under a wet teak deck, stiffen it, and provide much greater strength. I would definitely give it a try in the transom if it is wet. While it may not penetrate the wood, it will displace any water and set up in any voids, providing added strength and rigidity. If the transom is dry, use Boat Life Git Rot.
How long to dry?
Difficult to tell the exact time as I used it to cure in plywood under the teak deck. My best estimate to fully cure is around 4-6 hours
The warmer, the quicker the cure. I used it in the early spring. Below 50, it took a good 24-30 hours. Above 60, was a completely different story. It would dry is 6 0r 7 hours.
I have a 20' fiberglass flats boat. The transom is 11/2" plywood sandwiched between fiberglass. I found out the wood is damp and somewhat rotted. whats the best way to deal with this problem using this product without drilling too many holes? Should I try to dry it out with a heatlamp or something before introducing the wetwood epoxy?
Wet wood worked well but if the wood is not dry you will just seal the water in. You will need to drill a bunch of holes and trace how far the water goes.
I used wet wood epoxy on my teak deck. I was drilling two holes in the seems and injected it. The epoxy cured with the wet plywood underneaath the teak. But this application was horizontal. On a vertical transom U may have to find a different procedure
i suspect some water penetration around the drain hole/transom . have drilled drainholes and its finally more or less dry is wt wood epoxy a good temporary fix for this condition?
I would think so. I had two aereas on my teak deck which I could fix. The stuff really cures in wet wood.
I used Boat life to repair some rotted supports on my son's ski boat. The product works well,although it takes a while to harden so be prepared to plug the holes you drilled.I also used a needle I borrowed from the kitchen I use for injecting turkeys. to apply the product it worked out well, Git rot might also be consdered if the area is dried out.
My Flying Scot has a soft area under the deck. It is a Balsa core. Should I use Wet Wood Epoxy (because I don't know if it is dry) or GitRot?
Thank You for your input. I was leaning in that direction.
I worked with both products. Prefer the Wet Wood Epoxy ofer GitRot. It definately cures also in dump or wet environment. My experience is with Teak and Plywood. No experience with balsa
Will this product work on wet or damp wood ?. I thinking about try it out on my wood floor under my camper. The rear floor corners under camperare starting to come apart due to rain water getting to floor. ThanksDave
I used it on some areas of my teak deck. It worked fine. I drilled two holes. First I inserted the empty syrenge in one hole and pushed the bulk of water out. Then the same procedure with the wet wood epoxy. Since that area is dry. Good luck on your project
The product did work well on the wet wood. I can't answer on how durable or the longevity of the product yet. I need to monitor / check it the next time I go to the clients house.
This stuff works.
I used Aquapoxy differently from the directions--I scraped out the caulking from my teak deck and poured the stuff into the seams. A whole quart disappeared this way. The end result was what I had hoped for--markedly less deflection in my aft-cabin top deck. I'm going to buy more to have on hand.
A staple for cored hulls and decks
I've gone through several kits over the past few years for my 30' SISU balsa cored downeaster. The wheelhouse leaked from the overhead due to improperly installed hardware above and improperly secured bridge over wheelhouse. Over time I've probably injected at least a half gallon of this product and finally the wheelhouse is dry & has a new dry headliner. Many other areas both vertical & horizontal surfaces have been successfully treated. Under pressure with a syringe it helps displace most of the water. I also first try to suck out as much moisture with a shop vac and let it run for while. It's workable for some time and sets over several days. On overhead and vertical areas I've left the syringe in place so as not to relieve pressure or lose product, afterwards the syringe is easily removed. Larger syringes are found at medical supply stores. Great product.
Product worked exactly as it should.
After replacing an anchor windlass a few years back, I had developed a leak in the forward V-birth area and was able to trace it back to some damaged core material just aft of the windlass where the bedding around the all windlass had been compromised. It was a small area and not really something that needed to be replaced or easily accessible. There was only a small amount of damaged wood(core material) and the product solidified that damaged wood and sealed the leak. I drilled 1/8" holes through the fiberglass deck, injected the epoxy as explained in the directions to push out any moisture, and when everything dried, used a gelcoat repair kit to repair the injection holes. When dry, I compounded and waxed the area. The deck area is solid, there is no more water leaking in the cabin, and the gelcoat repair came out perfect.
WEST SAYVILLE, NY
Makes quick work for delamination repair
I'v used BoatLife wet Epoxy on my 30' SISU to seal leaks in the wheel house overhead by drilling holes at the underside and injecting BoatLife in suspect areas, at times leaving the syringe in place overnight so as not to lose pressure on the affected area or let product run out. Also used around the Tuna Door area and other vertical and horizontal sufaces with good results without having to cut the inside skin.
Highly recommend for wet wood.
I had some serious rot issues in my camper along the wall with the 2 slideouts. The big kitchen slideout seal was leaking from the floor during rain when traveling. A good portion of the floor plywood and most of the 2x4 floor joists 16 inches inward for about 20 ft backward had to be replaced. I cut out all the rotted wood but left the damp (wet rot) what appeared to be good wood in place to tie the new floor joist into. From the top of the 2x4 floor joists I drilled 1/4 inch holes, about 3/4ths of the way down and 3 inches apart for about 5 feet. I kept filling the holes until the epoxy wouldn't go down ( a few hrs). I was sceptical about the product until I had to remove a section of the treated board the following day. It was SOLID. I also drilled holes at a 45 degree angle into the 3 2x4s that support the floor under the slideouts. It stiffened them up. I can say this product does work and works well.