Blue Water Marine Copper Shield SCX 45 is a multi-season ablative bottom paint with a 45% copper content. SCX 45 contains the same award winning formula as regular Copper Shield 45 with the addition of Slime Control Xtra (SCX), a performance booster for tremendous protection against barnacles, slime, grass, algae, and other high fouling conditions.
All Copper Shield 45 paints featere a copolymer base for a smooth finish with durability and abrasion resistance. It may be applied over all types of properly prepared bottom paints (except aluminum), ablatives, epoxies, vinyls, and most other hard or ablative bottom paints. Perfect for powerboats and sailboats. Use on fast fiberglass boats as well as wood and steel hulls.
Available by the gallon or quart in Royal Blue, Marine Black, Admiral Green, Regatta Red, or Bright Blue.
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Note: The slime-fighter agent Irgarol used in this and other bottom paints was recently discontinued. Manufacturers have responded by reformulating affected paints. As Irgarol paint inventory is depleted, it is being replaced by the new formula. Refer to the individual product description in the drop down to see if your paint is still available with Irgarol. Learn more.
Copper Shield SCX 45 Highlights
Self Polishing Boosted Ablative
Addition of SLIME CONTROL XTRA (SCX)
Relaunch Without Painting
Eliminates Heavy Sanding
Tremendous Protection for Moderate Fouling Conditions
Below Water Line (yes/no):
Blue Water Marine
Number Of Parts:
Copper AF Paint
I am having the bottom taken down to the gel coat and would like a recommendation on a base/sealer before applying this product?
I used the Blue Water Barrier Shield Primer as a base coat under the Copper Shield (about a gallon of each) on my 22' C-Dory. My boat has been in the water (Puget Sound) since May and have had no bottom growth at all. Very happy with the results. Hope this helps.
You just need a clean bottom that is not super slick. You need to get any wax that is on the bottom off. Then you need to have a lightly sanded surface to get the paint to bond well. A DA sander with 120 grit paper makes quick work of that. Then wipe it down with solvent, let dry, and paint. One of the problems with blasting is that it tends to make the surface unlevel. Blasting works best when you are blasting a softer material off a harder material. Like paint off steel, etc. Personally I would never have a fiberglass boat blasted with anything. If the operator doesn't know what they are doing they could really screw up your boat.
Always heard you needed a base for the ablative paint to adhere to. I am having the pumice blasting treatment that does not penetrate the gel coat.
Assuming you don't have a blister problem, why do you think you need a base/sealer?
Thanks for the advice. Bottom blaster is very experienced with pumice at low pressure. Leaves boat with an #80 grit finish and very uniform.
2 years service
Splashed in August 2013 with three coatsHull clean all of 2014Slime buildup winter '14-'15Slime removed by brush once from dock, then again on beach (a few baby barnacles) (she's a twin bilge keeler)2 years to the day and she's got barnacles, like the chicken pox.
Island End River, Chelsea, MA
Happy with Product
So far works as good as more expensive ablative products. Nice copper content.