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Jamestown Distributors(800) 497-0010
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Sea Hawk Tuff Stuff is an extremely high-build two-part marine epoxy primer that dries fast, enabling application of a complete barrier system and bottom paint in just two days. Using microsheet silicate technology, millions of microscopic sheets overlap and build a 100% water barrier that protects the surface from moisture and water penetration.
Tuff Stuff is extremely effective for blister prevention on fiberglass, or as a bilge coating, because it is resistant to oil and water. As a universal primer, it can be used for corrosion protection on most metals below the waterline, and for priming any metal. Tuff Stuff creates an overlapping barrier to eliminate any direct path for water migration.
NOTE:Cannot be sold to California residents.
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It can be applied at 10-15 mils dry film in one coat, using a brush, roller, airless or conventional spray. Fills deep scratches and gouges in a few coats and can be sanded within 8 hours to a smooth finish. Available in light gray and white.
Additional Features & Info
Use over blistered fiberglass as a repair coat, and over unblistered fiberglass as a barrier coat.
Protects metals from corrosion above and below the waterline, including: aluminum, bronze, stainless steel, cast iron and lead.
Excellent for priming props, shafts, keels, trim tabs, thru hulls and lower units
Highest build epoxy meaning fewer coats needed
Longer window between coats makes Tuff Stuff easy to use
Reduced labor and less haul out time
Barrier Coat Primer
can tuff be applied at 50 degrees ?
Apply in good weather when air and surfacetemperatures are above 50Â°F (10Â°C). Surfacetemperature must be a least 5Â°F (1Â°C) above dewpoint. For optimum application properties, bringmaterial to 70-80Â°F (21-27Â°C) temperature rangeprior to mixing and application.
Can this be used on an aluminum boat bottom. Below the water line? What is the prep for the aluminm
It can be used below the waterline. Please see the included link directly to aluminum application, it's pretty detailed for what you need to do. If you do not want to go that far, I have included the regular tech bulletin that explains the short and simple of how to use the product, without the acid etch and chromated primers.https://www.seahawkpaints.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/TechBulletin_LargeAluminumYacht.pdfhttps://www.seahawkpaints.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Tuff-Stuff-TDS-November-2016.pdf
JD Tech Associate
Did a great job. Superior coverage
Used on trim tabs and engine brackets.
Seems tuff enough
Product should definitely be put in a shaker before mixing. Pour the product through a strainer before combining products so you can use the strainer again for your next batch. There were quite a few small chunks typical in most paints. The only thing I wish it was better at would be filling in pinholes. It was difficult to squeeze into the pits and some would not fill. So skim over your pinholes before you start. I used it with biocop tf and would use it again. The marina staff said it's the best looking bottom job they've seen in years. Time will tell.
Great stuff for repairing damaged tub surface
I used the product on an old tub, in this case, not a slow boat but a jetted tub. The bottom of the tub had scores of microfissures. While it was not leaking--yet--it was only a matter of time before it would. The three coats of product went on beautifully after careful prepping of the surface with 150 grit paper, Lime Away to dissolve scale, acetone to remove grease etc, and a tack rag to remove sanding dust. I followed this primer with three coats of Rustoleum Tub and tile paint. That was not nearly as tough or highbuild as the Tuff Stuff. If I had to do it again--perish the thought--I would use a high quality marine epoxy. So far, so good. I am very happy with the results.