3M Marine Premium Filler is a water resistant vinyl-ester filler designed for fiberglass repair work above or below the waterline. It is ideal for repairing decks, hulls, and other fiberglass components. It can also be used to treat gelcoat blister damage. Premium Filler features a unique and easy to sand formula designed with 3M Scotchlite Glass Bubbles. Available by the pint, quart, or gallon.
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For filling and fairing of fiberglass, metal, and wood
Can be applied up to 3/8" thick per application.
Filling scratches, cracks, and gouges above and below the waterline
Building and shaping
Fairing hulls, decks, keels, rudders, etc.
Cosmetic filling of repair area
Number Of Parts:
Do I need to paint or gel coat before repair is exposed to the air?
The 3M Marine premium filler is an air dry filler. It will dry hard in as little as 30 minutes. After cured, sand, clean and apply either primer,Paint, or gel coat.
JD Tech Team
Is the hardener for this product the same as the hardener used with regular automotive hardener? I always seem to run out of hardener before using up all the compound.
This is the hardener: 3M Marine Blue Creme Hardener
JD Tech Team
does it come with hardner?
Yes, in a small plastic tube.
Yes it does!
Yes it's enclosed,great product but sets very fast
Yes, there is a tube of hardener that comes with the can of filler. I have only used it a little bit, but it is the best filler I have found. Easy to mix and apply, and dries in about 30 minutes and sands like a dream. It may be too expensive to use on big fill jobs, but is great for filling the last round of low spots before painting.
What does the ambient air temperature need to be to use this product?
Spec sheet says over 60 degrees F. This stuff hardens fast so only mix a small amount at a time.
Not sure but most epoxy type products are used above 50 degrees F. You should be able to get a spec sheet from 3M .
Thank you, I have another question. I drysail my boat, a wood thistle racing dingy. on the bottom I have Pettit 98 Solid Coat gloss white. Is there a better bottom finish? Ideally something that does not require stripping the Pettit paint.Thank you,Mark
The MSD shoot on this product probably include that information. But I have found that it works between 65 and 90Â•Ã€_Â•Ã€__Â•Ã€_Â•Ã€__Â•Ã€_Â•Ã€__ pretty well
Will this product stand up to rain if I am not able to get it painted right away?
Peter, Thanks for the info. It will help me a lot. I'm nearing the end of a long project of glassing the deck and hull of my Compac 23 together. I just began fairing the joint. I'm really liking the 3M Filler. Only wish the working time was a little longer and the filler a little creamier. Thanks again.
This stuff is suitable below the waterline a vinyl ester with glass bubbles 2 part epoxy type formula make it tough and good for wet environment. I have used it all over my boat, below water line under bottom paint, under topside primer and paint, and a few spots on deck chips that I haven't gotten around to painting in over a year, and those spots are holding and looking just like when I applied the "stuff".
we hava a 21 foot four winns horizon which we removed the carpet, replaced the plywood floor and have fiberglassed it. We want to use a gelcoat finish on the floor but need to use some type of filler to smooth out the dips prior to applying the gelcoat. Would this product do the trick or do you recommend something else?
This stuff will work for what you are doing but it is pretty expensive. It sets up really fast with a working time of only about 10 minutes. You might want to use epoxy or polyester resin with colloidal silica so you can mix it the consistency you want and have a longer pot time. Polyester resin will be cheaper. Also the epoxy will be self leveling if you don't thicken it too much. This stuff is kind of like Bondo, it sands really easy but has a pretty coarse texture. I only used it to fill in screw heads for seacocks to fair to the hull on a sailboat, and I coated it with epoxy on top of that. Call Joe Merton and Merton's Fiberglass Supply in Springfield Ma and ask him what he recommends. Joe is an old friend and will give you good advice and great product support.
This would be good and tough stuff for that. Go easy on sanding to prevent more dips etc.
I performed essentially the same process about a year ago with the exception of applying gelcoat. I painted with a quality one part topside paint instead and have been very pleased with the results.
Can you use this product under finish gel cote? I have some gouges that would take multiple coats to even get close to filling the gouges before using the finish gel cote.
Yes, this product will be a good choice for filling gouges.
I wouldn't know about under gel cote, but it worked great under top side paint.
Yes, this is thick stuff like bondo you would use on a car to fill in a dent.
can you lay down fiberglass mat and resin over the 3m filler? thanks
The short answer is yes, you can lay down glass over this filler. The short answer works, but it is not that simple. This filler will not form a very strong bond to already cured epoxy resin based material. Long Answer: This is a two part resin and hardener. The resin is vinylester. The resin has glass fibers in it to give strength and also has a thickener to make it like peanut butter instead of a liquid. There are three common types of resins used in boatbuilding. EpoxyPolyesterVinylester. Epoxy is the strongest and will bond to the other two resin types, but the other two will not stick to cured epoxy well. Epoxy is suitable for use below the waterline and is often used as a barrier coat to protect polyester resins below the waterline. Epoxy is not a great repair resin for polyester boat hulls because the epoxy doesn't flex as much and you can get cracking around or in the repair area. Polyester puts off a lot of heat when it cures and is not completely impermiable to water. Water will eventually work its way into the polyester resin based grp and you get osmotic blistering. Vinylester resin is polyester resin with vinyl added to reduce the permeability to water. It is better suited for use below the waterline than polyester resin. Often the outer layer of a boat hull is vinylester and the inner layers are polyester. This gives some protection against blistering. Long answer of what sticks to what:Polyster will bond to already cured polyester and vinylester. Polyester doesn't bond with epoxy. Epoxy resin will bond with already cured epoxy, polyester and vinylester. Vinylester will bond with vinylester and polyester but not with epoxy.This product is a vinylester resin. So it will not bond well to already cured epoxy resin, however epoxy resin and poly resin will bond with already cured vinylester resin. Hope this helps.
I just used it to cover over the screw heads on the outside of the boat for a seacock installation. I then put a couple coats of epoxy over it and then some barrier coat for a paint base. I don't see any reason why not to lay up mat and resin over it, once it is cured it is pretty inert stuff. It cures very fast so you don't have much pot time, I'd sand it before laying up on top of it just to make sure there is no film that would prevent adhesion.
Doing repairs to a lead keel. In fairing from hull to keel, do I need to add a wrap of fiberglass material, or is application of fairing compound enough? If mat is required, what is recommended?
Adding fiberglass cloth to the seam will provide strength to lessen the chance of cracking again due to movement. A layer of 3" tape would help, then fair that area in smooth with the fairing compound.
How does this product work on a wood hull (topside) for fairing, i.e. smoothing dings, low 6"x6" areas etc. prior to painting with an enamel?
I recently restored an old drift boat and there was rot on the topside hull 3 plies in. I cut about a 12 X 12 area filled it smoothed nicely
It says it is made for fiberglass so I can't comment on use on wood. It sets up really fast and cures extremely quickly so you can sand it the same day you apply it. You only get about 10 minutes of pot life with it. Seems like it would be good for your application, why not try a small amount on some boards in you garage and take it from there?
The filler will work for repairs of dings in wood. There are two tricks to use. First, rough the surface with a dremel tool and clean with acetone to ensure a strong bond. Second, start sanding smooth as soon as the product solidifies enough to sand. The filler is very hard when fully cured and waiting too long to sand smooth will result in the sandpaper biting the wood better than the filler. This leaves an indentation around the repair rather than a smooth transition from repair to wood.
Another home run for 3M
This was used to fill in the countersink over bronze flat head screws after a seacock installation. It applies easy, and sets up really fast. You can sand it smooth within an hour or two of application. Allows you to get more work done the same day.
Sets Up Too Fast
A "golf ball" sized blob of this filler is about as much as I could mix and apply before it began to set up. I had a deck area of about one square foot to fill and fair, and it took about five batches to get close to the final level. The sandability in half an hour is true, but I'm not on the clock, so I'll stick to epoxy fillers in the future.
Sturgeon Bay, WI
Easy to work with, very strong when cured correctly
I would buy this product again as I have
I am redoing a a boat that I purchased and I am doing some repair, before I paint. This filler goes on well and sands very easy
I would buy again!
I found this product easy to use. Yes, it sets up quickly but the instructions tell you not to mix a lot at one time. It sands easy and used it above and below the waterline. Good stuff!
Pompano Beach, FL
Fast and Easy
Unlike the previous complaint I felt it was a great product. You must be cautious not to mix more than you can work in a few minutes. Do not mix in the can. Place a workable amount on a piece of scrap and add the hardner. Mix and use. You can sand in 30 minutes or less.
Morehead City, NC
sets up too fast
The working time is so short for this product that it is hard to usemore than a golf ball sized batch at one time. If you have a lot of holes to fill, find another product.