Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy Primer 4700/4701 is a heavy-duty, two-part epoxy-polyamide coating that may be used on almost any part of your boat. This versatile primer is excellent for not only preventing and repairing osmotic blisters, but is also equally effective at protecting underwater metals from corrosion.
Pettit Protect epoxy primer forms a tight, high build, durable chemical resistant film. The complete coating system is resistant to water, many industrial chemical fumes, and very humid environments. It is ideally suited to many commercial and pleasure craft applications and has excellent durability in exterior exposures, although, like most epoxies, it will chalk if not topcoated.
The item was added to your wishlist.
The item was added to your shop cart.
DRY TIME at Substrate Temperature
90 Degrees F
70 Degrees F
50 Degrees F
MIX RATIO (A/B)...3 to 1 (by volume)
CURING MECHANISM....Chemical Cure
By weight.....71 +or- 2 percent
By volume....56 +or- 2 percent
COVERAGE.....225 sq. ft/gal.
VOC....378 g/l max. (admixed)
FLASH POINT....80 degrees F
METHOD.....Brush, Roller, Airless or Conventional Spray
INDUCTION PERIOD....15 minutes at 70 degrees F
NUMBER OF COATS....3 min.
DRY FILM THICKNESS PER COAT.....4 mils (7.1 wet mils)
APPLICATION TEMP (air & substrate).....50 degrees F. Minimum, 90 degrees F. Maximum
POT LIFE.... 2.5 hrs. at 90 degrees F
5 hrs. at 70 degrees F
10 hrs. at 50 degrees F
Stir both components thoroughly. Mix the two components together in the ratio of 3 parts of Component A to 1 part of Component B by volume. Allow to stand 15 minutes at approximately 70 degrees before using. (Allow to stand at least 30 minutes if temperature is between 50 degrees and 65 degrees F.) Primer may be applied by brush, roller, conventional or airless spray. Thinning is not normally required for brush or roller application, however, small amounts of 97 Epoxy Thinner may be used if necessary to facilitate application. For spraying, use 97 Epoxy Thinner at levels of 5-10 percent by volume to ensure a smooth finish with minimal orange peel. Wet film thickness should be 7.1 mils per coat, which yields 4 mils dry film thickness. A wet film thickness gauge should be used to monitor paint application. Total dry film thickness for a three coat application should be 12 mils minimum for maximum coating performance. If this has not been achieved with three coats, additional coats are recommended until 12 dry mils is reached.
Coating performance, in general, is proportional to the degree of surface preparation. Follow recommendations carefully, avoiding shortcuts. Inadequate preparation of surfaces will virtually assure inadequate coating performance.
Bare Fiberglass: All fiberglass surfaces, regardless of age, should be washed at least twice with Pettit 95 Fiberglass Dewaxer. Change rags frequently to ensure complete removal of wax, mold release, or other contaminants. Sand the surface thoroughly with 60 grit sandpaper and rewash with 95 Fiberglass Dewaxer to remove sanding residue. Apply at least three coats of Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy Primer 4700/4701 following the application and recoat instructions. Finish with two coats of Pettit antifouling paint.
Blistered Fiberglass: Refer to Pettit Technical Bulletin TB1000 Gelcoat Blister Repair and Prevention Specification for detailed instructions.
Bare Steel: Sandblast to SSPC-SP 6 Commerical blast, blow off residue with clean, compressed air, and immediately apply three coats 4700/4701 following application and recoat instructions.
Alternatively, hand sand with 80 grit sandpaper or power hand tool clean, then remove residue with clean compressed air or by vacuuming. Immediately apply one coat of Pettit 6980 Rustlok Steel Primer and let dry to a tack free state (usually 30 minutes to 2 hours, dependent on temperature). Then apply three coats of Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy Primer 4700/4701 following application and recoat instructions. Do not let Rustlok Primer dry longer than 2 hours under any circumstances before applying Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy Primer 4700/4701.
Bare Aluminum: Sandblast (using non-metallic media) or disc sand the aluminum to clean, bright metal. Wipe clean of residue and immediately apply one thin coat of Pettit 6455/044 Metal Primer. Let dry 8 hours minimum, 48 hours maximum, and apply three coats Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy Primer 4700/4701 following application and recoat instructions.
Keels - Lead: Disc sand or otherwise abrade surface to bright metal; clean off residue. Apply one thin coat of 6455/044 Metal Primer and allow to dry eight hours. Apply one coat of Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy Primer 4700/4701. Let dry to recoat. Then, if fairing is required, apply Pettit Protect 7000/7001 Epoxy Fairing Compound. Sand smooth with 80 grit sandpaper and follow with two additional coats of 4700/4701 per label directions.
Keels - Steel or Cast Iron: Disc sand or otherwise abrade surface to bright metal and clean off residue. Apply one coat of 6980 Rustlok Steel Primer, allowing to dry only 1/2 - 2 hours prior to overcoating, no more, no less! Apply one coat of Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy Primer 4700/4701. Let dry to recoat. Then, if fairing is required, apply Pettit Protect 7000/7001 Epoxy Fairing Compound. Sand smooth and follow with two additional coats of 4700/4701 per label directions.
Previously Primed Surfaces: Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy Primer 4700/4701 may be applied over existing two part epoxy finishes, provided they are in sound condition. Brush-off sandblasting or very heavy sanding with 60 grit sandpaper is required to maintain maximum adhesion. Then apply three coats of 4700/4701 per instructions. Remember, coating performance is only as good as the surface to which it's applied. All existing two package epoxy finishes in poor condition, as well as one package primers and bottom paints, should be removed completely and the appropriate
bare system as described above should be followed before using Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy Primer 4700/4701.
Total dry film thickness is more important than the actual number of coats applied. On metal and fiberglass, if 12 mils total DFT is not achieved with three coats, additional coats are recommended until 12 mils total DFT is achieved.
Reduces water absorption in fiberglass hulls and prevents osmotic blistering.
High film build for maximum protection with fewer coats.
Excellent water and chemical resistance.
Exceptional protection for steel, aluminum, and other metals.
High Performance System for Underwater Running Gear.
I have an older wooden hull, all fully scraped and sanded but still with part latex , part west system 3 repairs , part raw wood . Can I put Pettit 4700 high build epoxy primer over everything prior to top coats ?
I don't see why not. As long as the surface is hard and dry. This is anepoxy barrier coat after all. With all those different surfaces I wouldapply several coats and sand carefully to keep the thickness.That wood hull worries me. Once you seal one side with epoxy, moisture willnever get out that way. If the other side is not similarly sealed while themoisture content is at an acceptable level, you may create a situation whererot could get out of control.
I haven't used it on wood, but I've had great results on bare fiberglass below the waterline. I think wood would be fine and in general that's what it's designed for.
This product can not go over latex. The epoxy and bare wood are fine, but any latex paint must be removed before going forward.
JD Tech Associate
Boat yard indicates that they do not recommend Pettit Epoxy Barrier Coat on a Boat that has been in seawater for any length of time because the Gel Coat and the Fiberglass becomes saturated with water. They indicate that the moisture will push the coating off of the gelcoat. They are saying that it is appropriate for new boats where the gelcoat and fiberglass are not already saturated with water. What are your thoughts on this?
I would contact Pettit and ask for their opinion. Boatyards are notorious for blaming paint or anything else for the reason that a particular product is not as good as another. I would be even more sure of this if they areÂ recommending the interlux 2000 or something that they are representing as better.
I can't comment on this particular issue, but I can state that I found thePettit Barrier Coat garbage when compared with AwlGrip 545. Sanding wasalmost impossible. I can't for the life of me think why I decided to trythe Pettit.
This seems patently false to me. If the boat doesn't have any blisters you should be able to apply it. If the boat does have blisters then, yes, it would need to dry out and the blister repairs done prior to applying.
Dear ZebWish I could give a definitive answer however I can only relate myexperience.First I live in New England so our in-water season islimited.Last spring I prepped my 15 year old ?new to me? 24 ft FourWinns for its first salt water marina season.The previous owner of 5years kept it on a lake.The bottom had never been and there were noblisters ? other than a lot of old wax, the hull was in decentshape.After cleaning (found Oxalic Acid most effective) I opted to sandthe bottom although not required by the Pettit application instructionfor bare fiberglass.Using a roller, applied 3 coats of the Epoxy BarrierCoat followed by 3 coats of Pettit Horizons antifouling.When I pulledthe boat in the fall, I just scrubbed it down and it was ready for thenext season.I could not have been more pleased with the result- I didn?tsee any evidence of poor adhesion.My suggestion - call Pettit.Then callanother boat yard.
I can't speak about the Pettit Epoxy Barrier Coat, but I did have experiencewith the Epoxy Primer and Epoxy topcoat. First, there were a lot ofconflicting advice on how to apply the paint and also unusable productrecommended based on how I applied the product. The end result was the worstpaint job I had ever had and it also scratches off very easy. Totallydisappointing! I reached out to Pettit for further advice and resolutionsand never heard from them! My recommendation is to choose a differentproduct and get a lot of info before starting anything.Good luck!Paul
First and foremost I would check moisture level on your hull. If it fallswithin dry limits you are good to go if not it wont matter what you use itwill push off. I just did my hull that has been in water seasonally since1994. I had hull blasted at haul out and my hull was dry so I don't expectproblems but time will tell.Russ
I was just advised by the professional that soda blasted my 1986 Viking down to the fiberglass to use 3 coats of the barrier and two coats of the Pettit Ablative Hydracoat and this boat is 30 years old and never had a barrier coat ever applied. I trust him as he's been doing this for over 30 years and is "top notch".
Well it's hard to believe but plastic absorbs water. Unless you dry thehull way down inside, you are wasting your $ and time.. good luck.
Barrier coating a new boat is definitely a better position to be in than barrier coating an old boat, but not everyone can run out and get a new one. There may already be water in the old gelcoat and fiberglass, but if you have the hull taken back, allow it to dry for at least a few days or ideally a couple of weeks before applying a barrier coat primer. for the most part, the damage may already be done for some, but it may be the case where you can prevent further water intrusion if you can barrier coat it now.
JD Tech Associate
how long can I wait to recoat pettit 4700 with a antifouling paint, the marina I'm using can not do bottom painting right away.I have ground and sanded my aluminum motor bracket to bare aluminum and going to prime with 6455 (one coat) then recoat with 4700 (3 to 4 coats). Then I'm having a marina bottom paint boat bottom and motor bracket. I still have not decided what paint to use on motor bracket above water line to finish please advise. PS I use boat in salt water only
6 months max in a shed3 months max in the sunIf longer scratch sand with 80 gritBlow off with compressed clean airWipe down with Pettit solventPaintÂ
We waited 30 days for the bottom to cure before painting.
After a maximum of 10 hours (without applying antifouling at 50 degrees F) the bottom must be sanded with 80-grit sandpaper to allow for bottom paints to adhere. (In warmer conditions that window may be as short as 6 hours)
JD Tech Associate
Can the antifouling paint be applied directly over the primer or is sanding required before Hydrocoat application?
Pettit doesn't specify if sanding is needed before applying the bottom paint. We always recommend a light sanding after the primer cures for better adhesion.
JD Tech Team
Can this be used directly on sanded wood? What topside topcoat is recommended over this?
No I don't think so. The can noes not say any thing about wood. This primer is to protect glass from blisters. I am in fresh water and have not painted it yet. If you are down to bare wood use good wood primer and two coats of bottom paint. Bob E.
Yes on bare wood is ok I sealed wood with epoxy Then sanded then paintedAs far as painting over this I used a good quality enamel seemed to do a good job Oh sand epoxy paint before painting with enamel
I have a 20 ft boat with a 6 ft beam. Will 2 qts be enough to get two coats?
to Bill M,If you are down to bare glass you will have no problem with two qts. It goes on very easy. Just mix it the way it tells you too. Bob E.
Might as well get the gallon, Total Boat also makes a similar product
Does the paint work well on aluminum? Can I buy just the 4701 part B?
I have only used it on fiberglass, epoxy, and wood. It really sticks and covers well. I don't know why it wouldn't stick to properly prepped metal. Check out spec. sheets from Pettit. You have to ask Jamestown about the last part of your question. Good Luck.
I'm planning to use PETTIT HYDROCOAT as my ablative bottom paint this year. The bottom of my boat will be blasted clean first. I want to apply a barrier coat first before using the HYDROCOAT. What Pettit product should I use for the barrier coat to insure a strong chemical bond between the barrier coat and the ablative paint? I'm concerned because HYDROCOAT is a water based product. Thanks! I look forward to your response.
I use the Pettit Protect High Build Epoxy as spot coating when sanding exposes gel coat. I used the Hydrocoat bottom paint over the epoxy and have had no problems.
So far very pleased with results of Pettit Highbuild Epoxy system. Using it on a new boat project and also on a refurb of an old Boston Whaler. rolls on smooth, sands well, and fills cracks etc. well. Bonded well on the refurbish, have not put the top coat on yet but it sealed the hull nicely and makes a great primer for the finish coat. I will be using it again. North Shores Boats
What's the coverage area of one gallon? I have a 42 foot Sabre...
jon d, I own a 38'chris craft and I think I used not quit 2 gal. But I put on 2 coats. It spreads very well. It has been two seasons and is lasting very well. I pleased how it is lasting. Bob Ervay
can I use this over west system?
I scraped off all of the old bottom paint on my sailboat/ sanded with 60 grit and painted three coats. paints well and seems tough. not familiar with west systems but if its an epoxy bottom paint you can cover it with this epoxy. if its an anti fouling paint I would remove it all before covering with an epoxy
Yes, you can... I have many times. Sand with 100-120 grit use dewaxer first.
Does not yeild a smooth finish.
Paint DOES NOT make a smooth finish once dried! Will have to sand to smooth out before applying bottom paint! will not level out no matter how thick applied. Leaves brush stroke lines. Although not smooth the paint is very thick and yields a very thick layer in just two coats if applied by brush. Must work quickly and carry a lot of paint on your brush. MUST keep a wet edge. Once applied must move on. Paint small strips going length ways on the boat until it is covered. If you see a run or try to smooth out a rough spot once it starts to dry it will only make it worse, paint is very thick and will glob up. Tired to roll and tip but paint dries to fast and tipping only makes it more rough. Sanding required to get smooth surface. If you are looking for a super high build product and aren't worried about rough surface this product is for you. If you are looking for a very smooth surface without sanding find something else.
Baton Rouge, La
May very well do the job (barrier) but will not yeild a smooth finish like other products we have used. Try as we may, several types rollers and tipping, did not result in a suitable finish over which to paint for a smooth bottom job. Very hard sanding as well so be careful what you put this on.
Cape Cod, MA
Unique specific purpose
I plan to use this on the cabinet bottom under a sink to provide a water resistant coating to the particleboard. Previous leaks have warped the board which has been leveled with floor leveling compound. The small container allows me to have enough to cover without the waste of extra coating left over. I had to look hard for this epoxy and container size.
The old goat
Paso Robles, CA
This is a good high build epoxy primer. Goes on well and covers great. Also seems to sand well. Should seal and hold up well, have not water tested yet, but looking forward. Good price also.
Would buy again
Product was well packaged. Went on well following directions. Good coverage and rolled on easy.
I would buy this product again and again
It works very well if applied following the directions of the manufacture. I used it on the stern board of my old Zociac, to provide a water barrier. I know it would be good as a primer for under water metal parts. I mixed some of the primer with a putty knife. It dried on the knife and I had the devil of a time trying to get it off!