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Sikkens Cetol Marine Light is a durable satin, translucent protective wood finish for use above the waterline on interior and exterior woods. Cetol Marine provides a flexible, breathable finish along with weather protection for teak and other hard woods, all with ease of application and maintenance.
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Cetol Marine Light is formulated with a special alkyd resin and high quality synthetic UV-absorbing pigments which shields wood against damaging UV rays.
Cetol Marine Light is identical to the Cetol Marine but formulated with different pigments to produce a lighter amber appearance on wood.
Other Cetol Marine products: Cetol Marine Gloss, Cetol Marine Natural Teak, and original Cetol Marine.
Comparing this product with Semco - Is this product "thicker" - more like a solid stain?I've used both products before and can't remember which is which. One just sort of fades away, and the other is thicker and would probably have to be sanded off. I think Cetol is the more solid stain - Can you confirm this for me please? Thank you!
Cetol is solid
I've never used semco, but cetol has a orange tone and is somewhat opague but not enough to obscure the grain of the wood. It's thin when applied. Hope that helps.Brenda
Semco is thin, like an oil, and needs to be reapplied a couple of times a year. This product has a viscosity closer to paint with a little more flow to it, that builds up with each coat. I wouldn't consider it a stain, because it does not change the wood's tone, it just has an opacity with color to it.
JD Tech Associate
Can this product be overcoated with a satin varnish? I'm using it to color match a new bank of teak faced drawers in a 1985 42' Grand Banks Motoryacht master stateroom. It's definitely the best color match, but I need to match the interior satin finish on the surrounding cabinets.
Bob the builder
Yes, sand first with 220 grit or a scotchbrite pad.
JD Tech Team
Is this the one that looks orange?
Cetol marine light has a light orange finish from the iron oxide in it.cetol marine has a darker orange tint
I wouldn't call it Orange but it does have a golden hue I liked it
I thought it looked orange. Didn't look good on our mahagony cap rails, so we sold it to someone else. They were happy with it.
No. The Lite version is good deal less orange that the full strength original. It is still not quite as yellow as traditional varnish, however.
Yes, it does have a light color to it. Very rich looking.It can be touched up and re coated at any time. It lasts very well in the direct sun. Seems to be the only thing that will last.
How can you remove spills on fiberglass?
If it is dried, use a 1 inch metal putty knife with a layer or two of a xylene soaked rag over the tip of it. The rag will keep the metal from scratching the gelcoat, but, the edge will still be sharp enough to remove the Cetol. It may take a few strokes.
If you see it immediately a wet cloth or paper towel will get it off. Otherwise it's best let it cure completely which might take a couple of weeks then gently remove it with a blade. I use a very dull penknife.
I haven't spilled Cetol on fiberglas. On regular glass I let the drip dry and use a razor blade to take it off.
It was recommended to me to use a wood sealer before I apply this. What is your opinion?
I would think not. I applied three coats of Cetol Marine Light to a table build from solid teak and teak veneered plywood, with a light sand between coats. My results were good.
I used a clear peet rating epoxy sealer prior to applying as is seals the wood and helps to look the Cetol onto the wood for a longer, more durable finish.
We did not. Sanded the wood well and tacked it with denatured alcohol. Finish is holcing up well. Hope that helps
I did not use a sealer, and the wood I used it on looks just as good now as when I applied it a few years ago. If you want to use a sealer, just thin it by 50% for the first coat.
can cetol be used in a sprayer?
Sorry, but I can't really help too much I'm afraid, I have only brushed it on. In my application (a table) I did a light sanding between coats. It came out pretty nice.
Interlux specifies long bristle brush only. This product is thick and would need to be thinned to be sprayed. They don't specify a spray thinner or to thin it at all.
what brush do you suggest for Cetol natural?
I prefer a small foam roller (2" or 4"), along with a 2" Redtree brush for tight spots.
Any oil based product should be a Chinese bristle brush
Is the Cetol light flat finish a good choice for cockpit floor?
I have only used it on trim pieces so I can not relate to use on cockpit floor. The product has held up well where I have used it, but I do put a coat on every year.
I would say no. I adore this product for sall my exterior work. But as far as being durable under foot. Its not hard enough.
I've only used it on exterior wood deck rails on a home. Flat in general could work for flooring or a deck, but I don't think this product is intended for foot traffic. You might try using the manufacturer's web site to get the technical information about the product.
Cetol is a soft varnish that flexes with the wood .A varnish thatlasts twice as long before refinishing is Vitralite clear by Prattand Lambert.
how well would Cetol work on a cedar deck? I have a deck in Valdez Alaska that is covered with snow for 7 months of the year. I've been using an oil based finish, but I am having to refinish every year. Would Cetol give me a longer lasting finish?
Cetol stands up better to moisture than other finishes I've used (many), but direct sun is still a challenge. So I guess I'm saying that it might work out well for Valdez :) I have it on a teak table in sunny california, and it will go about two years. The chairs in the shade (which which still get wet, will probably go many times that before needing refinishing.)One issue you'll want to think about is that Cetol on a floor surface may be quite slick (think of walking on polyurethaned hardwood flooring, but then add water to the mix) as compared to something like Thompson's Water Seal, or a stain with UV protection.Also, application of Cetol is somewhere between polyurethane and varnish in terms of trying to get a professional-looking finish--which is to say that it is quite a bit more time consuming and requires more attention to detail than the stain or sealant products. Depending on the size of the deck, it might also be a very expensive route.
I have never used this product, so how does it react with existing products. I intend to re-do the railings on a boat that are exposed to sun and salt water.Does it have color to it or is it clear like varnish? If the existing rails are varnished what prep needs to be done? Will it look like the varnished wood or a stained wood?
Joe: The Sikkens has a very light pigment added to help in blending the wood color and will react just fine with existing varnish. In fact, Sikkens looks exactly like varnish, but with less coats. And Sikkens flows better than varnish at varing temps. and humidity, unlike varnish. Preping your rail will be the same as for varnish. If the old varnish is just dull but not cracked, just a light overall sanding with 150 paper wil be fine. If there's a lot of cracking then you'd best sand down to wood and remove any graying. If you don't the gray streaks will turn black under the Sikkens. I would suggest 4 coats of Marine Light and then finish with 2 coats of the clear top coating. It will look as good as a 15 or 20 coat varnish finish. You don't need to get all 6 coats done at once. Just get the first 2 done in 3 or 4 days then you can take your time and pick good weather for the rest.
It has a light golden hue to it. Lightly sand a small area and apply it and see how you like it. I don't know what existing products have been used,but it will probably not react if the existing products are well cured.
I refinished an unfinished teak table and chairs on our deck after my wife complained they looked looked awful. TSP and vinegar cleaned them up like magic. They looked fine after two coats and still do. You will need to get your rails down to raw wood to use it, because it is semi-porous and lets the wood breath. That said , it's very easy to apply, and yearly application is just wipe on with little or no prep. I'm building a big wooden sailboat and plan to use it. Bear in mind that the teak you get nowadays is not to be compared to what it used to be, and VERY expensive, plus special glue required. If you're after a showy yacht, do the 8 coats of varnish; if you want protection from light and lifting, plus easy maintenance, use cetol.
I have not used the cetol that I purchased yet, it will be used sometime after the first of the year, sorry.Bob
The product is lightly pigmented. The effect is closer to a varnish than a stain, but there is a very distinct yellowing effect--more obvious than the very clear amber one gets from varnish. You'll still clearly see the natural grain, but as if through a yellowed gel. I used it on a teak table. I was very concerned that it not eliminate the natural character of the wood, and on balance I've very pleased with the results and the durability.
i have used sikkins for about 12 years. the light has a light brown stain look to it much like sanded teak. for the best job i recomened removeing all coating down to bear wood and starting with 2 to 3 coats of light and 3 coats of clear sikkings. however i have scenesom good results over old varnish in good cond. with just some clear hope this helps out and not making it harder to decide
Hey Joe. We have used this product for at least 15 years. We used to live on a salt-water boat in S. Florida & have used it extensively on the boat. I like it better than any varnish, stain, etc., I've used. I like it for many reasons, incl. the fact that I'm basically lazy. With Cetol, the need for heavy sanding is reduced from every 6-12 months to one time - the first time you apply it. If you keep your eye on it, and are willing to re-apply it as soon as it starts wearing, a light sanding is the most work you will ever need to do again. (I've even had success with no sanding at all.) As to prep - you will need to remove all the old varnish; if you don't, the old varnished areas will be a different color than the unvarnished areas, and it will be a significant difference. Get the wood as smooth as you want it to be, take a tack cloth to it, grab your brush & go to work. I used to apply 3 coats the first time, and then make a judgement call afterwards. I have often re-applied a single coat with good results. As to color - yes, it has a color to it. Only you can decide what color you like. If possible, find store that sells Cetol & hopefully they will have a sample board (I believe they now make a colorless one, but check on that). Remember, just like with any stain or varnish, the color of your wood will affect the final color. The wood grain shows through, and it will look like varnished wood. The only negative I've ever heard is that some people want a really high-gloss, super-smooth finish; if you are one of them, go with high-gloss varnish & the many hours of sanding & varnishing required to achieve that look. If you are like me, and are happy with "it looks good" rather than " that looks like brand new", then go with Cetol. I never used anything else again. By the way, this can was used on my beautiful solid oak front door, and I'm still happy with the product. Good luck!
i have used this product for a number of years, after preparing teak as you would for teak oil app i lightly sand clean again and then apply sikkens, has a slight color to it though not much never used it on varnished surface i would suppose that you would have to remove varnish first after the season i lightly sand power wash and reapply
Great on teak
I have a sailboat with a lot of teak. The perennial teak question is, do you protect it, and if so, how? Varnish is a bad idea because it defeats the low maintenance advantage of teak. Cetol Light solves the problem by providing some protection for the wood without the steady upkeep required of varnish. I applied 3 coats 3 years ago, and it still looks good. It's beginning to wear off in some places (it does not chip, crack, or peel) so I may recoat this year. It makes old teak look great.
The Right Stuff
This is a good product that works best if you use the suggested preperation method.
Best product - Best Price
Best product around for protection of nice woodwork that is exposed to the elements. Easy maintenance of covered surfaces.
Bismarck, North Dakota
I use this product on the exterior brightwork of a wooden schooner. The boat is moored in Puget Sound. Degredation from harsh sunlight is not an issue here, but wet weather sure is. Cetol has worked well for us for years.
LAKE STEVENS, WA
Old Teak brought back to life.
This 34' Beneteau sailboat had sat for years without attention, so serious sanding was required the first time. Afterwards three coats were applied with light sanding between coats, with amazing results. About every 4 to 6 months (in a Florida environment), I sand lightly with a scotch brite pad and add 1 or 2 coats of Cetol and I am done for another 6 months. I'll be a lazy Captain if I can! I suggest buying one shade lighter then you want to achieve in the end.
Cetol Marine Light
I used Cetol Marine light on the hand railing and cap rail of my trawler. The product works very well, but the wood finish should already be the same shade before you start painting. If there are different shades, as in weathered wood, I'd suggest using Cetol Marine, at least three coats. There's more pigment in the Marine as opposed to the Marine Light. After three (or more) coats, I put an additional three coats of Cetol Gloss, and the wood looks great. Good products.