Pettit Prop Coat Barnacle Barrier 1792 is specifically designed to be used on bare metals such as steel, stainless steel, cast iron, copper, bronze, galvanized steel and lead, both above or below the waterline. Prop Coat forms an excellent adhesive bond to underwater metals and running gear and inhibits corrosion on these surfaces. Properly applied, Pettit Prop Coat Barnacle Barrier yields a smooth, hard surface that self-cleans under way.
Do not apply anti-fouling paint over Prop Coat. For metal above the waterline apply one (1) coat of Pettit 6627 Tie-Coat Primer after the Prop Coat has dried for 2 hours. Follow with two (2) coats of Pettit Easypoxy Enamel.
The dried film of Prop Coat contains 93 percent pure zinc.
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Superior adhesion to clean metals.
93 percent pure zinc in the dried film.
Supplied in an easy to use aerosol spray can.
Color : Gray
Shake can vigorously for two minutes after mixing balls begin to rattle. Shake often during use. Hold can upright 12 to 16 inches from the surface and spray in a steady back-and-forth motion, slightly overlapping each stroke. Keep the can the same distance from the surface and in motion
while spraying. Applying in thin coats. Allow no more than 5 minutes between two or three thin coats, otherwise allow to dry one hour before
applying additional coats.
When finished spraying, clear spray valve by turning can upside down and spraying until no more paint comes out. If valve clogs, twist and pull off spray tip and rinse it in a solvent such as mineral spirits. Do not stick a pin or other object in the stem.
Remove all paint from underwater metals and running gear by sanding, scraping, sandblasting or by using a paint and varnish remover. Once back
to bare, clean metal wipe the surface with Pettit 120 Brushing Thinner and let dry. For application to metals above the waterline remove all paint
and rust with a wire brush or sandpaper. Lightly sand glossy surfaces. Clean surface with Pettit 120 Brushing Thinner and let dry.
NOT FOR USE ON FIBERGLASS OR WOOD
Below Water Line (yes/no):
Barnacle Barrier Paint
I have sanded and prepared the propellers and propeller shafts on my boat. Do I use Barnacle Barrier to paint the shafts before or after I attach the zinc anodes to the shafts?
I have been using this product. Zinc needs to be in contact with the shaft so any area zinc will be attached should not be painted. Rest of it simply sprayed on. Zinc should not be painted either.
A waste of your money, don't do it.
I suggest that you contact Retit. That product did not work well in my hands,
I attack the shaft zinc first to the bare, sanded shaft. Then I cover it with blue masking tape. I also tape a few pieces of cardboard or newspaper up against the hull so I don't get the pettit paint all over my newly (bottom) painted hull when I spray the prop/shaft paint. Spray 3 light/ thin coats. And then remove all paper and tape. remember to remove all tape from zincs.
The zincs and where they contact the shaft need to be left unpainted. I attach the zincs and cover with painters tape before painting.
Mask off the shaft where the zincs will be installed, then spray the shafts with the barnacle barrier. Remove the masking tape and install the zinc to the shaft. The shat must be clean under the zinc and make full contact.
The zinc anodes must have electrical contact with the stainless steel prop shaft. Follow the installation instructions for the zincs, which state the shaft must be clean and free of paint. Then paint the shafts leaving the zincs free of paint.
John - All that matters is that you NOT paint either the shaft where the zinc is to be installed or the zinc itself. The zinc must contact the shaft (or whatever metal surface it is protecting) when installed, and the zinc itself must be 100% exposed to the water once the boat is splashed. Any interference will cause the zinc to cease to function as an anode (might was well not have a zinc).Hope that helps!Rod
You want the anode to have the most intimate contact with the shaft that is possible. Install the anode before painting the shaft. Even though Barnacle Barrier is substantially all zinc, like your anode, I'd mask the anode when you spray just to be sure.
I assume the Barnacle Barrier does not conduct electricity so I would attach the zinc anode after painting. I would tape off the anode contact with the shaft.
How do I treat the prop the year after application? DO I have to remove the old paint or can I clean it up and paint over?Peter
The product works for me! Over the last 3 or 4 seasons i do the following:1. Pressure wash the gear lightly2. Lightly sand wth 100 grit sand paper3. Thoroughly wipe all the gear with acetone.4. Thoroughly allow the acetone treated surfaces to dry.5. Apply 2 coats of Petit prop coat barnacle barrier.6. Allow time for the prop coat to dry before splashing the boat.This method has worked well for me.
I wire brush off anything that is loose and scrape away a few barnacles and then spray on a few coats one after the other as soon as one coat is dry. I make no attempt to go down to bare metal before painting.
My experience with Petit paint made me try a different paint this year. I will not know until the fall if it is better.
I clean ant slime off and paint over what's there
I have a 41' Formula PC and boat in the Chesapeake Bay near Baltimore and have experienced barnacle issues last year. Do you think this product will work and do I need more than 1 can ( 16 ozs. ) to do both of my props?
Used product in gulf coast with not great results; the material is very toxic.
Wish I could help, but I have not been underwater since I painted this prop last spring, so don't yet know how the paint worked. Will know if about 30 days when I have a diver check the bottom....
Yes and yes. Since bottom paint is used on the hull, I figured why not try it on the running gear? I conducted an experiment where I coated one shaft and prop with Barnacle Barrier, and one prop and shaft with a run-of-the-mill ablative anti-fouling paint. The difference was like night and day. You couldn't fit any more barnacles on the painted shaft (the hull was fine -- go figure!). The prop had some, but not as many as the shaft.The Barnacle Barrier-coated shaft and prop were almost barnacle free, maybe a dozen total on the shaft and wheel hub after about 7 months in the upper Chesapeake (Middle River). All of my running gear is now sporting Barnacle Barrier.
Hi Ted, I used the Petit Barnacle Barrier for my trim tabs and had good results. Mid-season inspection showed minimal barnacle growth. We boat in Long Island's Peconic Bay and the boat is docked on river with brackish water and the barnacle growth is aggressive. Try to run the boat as often as possible to keep growth down. If the boat is going to sit for awhile you may have to someone dive to inspect your running gear.Happy Boating, Glenn
I applied about three coats to my 15 inch prop. My boat is on a mooring in Allen'S Harbor IN Narragansett Bay,. When I pulled the boat out of the water in the fall, there were no barnacles on it.
This product will not prevent barnacle buildup on a stationary surface. The coating itself seems to be fairly resilient. It does make it much easier to remove barnacles once they get attached and as long as the barrier remains, the worst growth you can expect between periodic cleanings is scattered barnacles. The barnacles can be plucked by hand, thus maintaining the barrier.
Ray, if you are unable to get this product shipped to Canada, I would suggest going to a Lowes or Home Depot and buy Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing spray paint as this consists mostly of zinc powder which is the same basic zinc ingredient as Petit. I did however spring for the Petit product. It is the zinc that inhibits the barnacle growth. Mitch
I have a 37' on the bay as well. I started with Pettit several years ago, and it was just OK. You will need more than just 1 can, because you will need about 3-4 coats for its first application. Be(a)ware, if you do not like the product, you will need to remove it with a thoro sanding or sand blasting Â’Â¢?_ been there and done it.
KARL VON LIPSEY
I have been asked by Jamestown Distributors to answer your question as I was on record as having purchased the product previously. Unfortunately, after the purchase, I was advised that they could not ship the product to Canada. As a result I have no experience with it.
I used 2 cans on a 29' twin screw just had enough. I don't think it worked any better then regular bottom paint and cost almost $50 extra to do the job.
I had to get my prop scraped clean after a month in the water. This product did not work for me.
I used this on my strut shaft and prop last year and had only a couple barnacles 2 to 3 per engine. My brother uses it as well with similar results. We keep both boats on the Chesapeake. Good stuff
is this pettit easypoxy enamel?
No. It is 93% pure Zinc when dried, with Toluene Xylene aerosol propellants that evaportate when applied. The instructions call for a Petit tie coat primer and then Petit easypoxy enamel for metal surfaces above the waterline.
Seemed to work great for meI forgot to treat the running gear when I put in so only had 3 months of service but worked well for that time
The finish is flat gray. I used on running gear so color was not an issue
I don't know
Appears to work as good as, easy to useand much less expensive as the current alternatives
Just clean the surface with a rotary brush and acetone. Let the acetone dry. Spray on two coats covering all exposed metal surfaces.
Pettit Zinc Coat
Good product, easy to work with and does the job as well as the more expensive alternatives
Easy to apply
Keeps your underwater metals clean
Used this paint for the first time last season because my prop was perpetually fouled at haul out. Had previously used ablative bottom paint. Application was easy and fast (<5 minutes) once I got down to bare metal. Be sure to not apply too much. As a test I never cleaned the prop during a long sailing season. It came out with essentially no growth and none of the paint was worn off. What growth was there I could flick off with my fingernail, leaving the paint intact. Preparing for this season will probably require a little more elbow grease than before, but it's worth it. For me, one can will last several seasons.