System Three WR-LPU Topcoat is a two-part, water-based linear polyurethane enamel. This reducible topside paint provides appearance and performance equal to solvent-based paints. WR-LPU topcoat comes in clear gloss, clear satin, and 12 popular colors. When cured, it is resistant to moisture, solvents and fuels.
WR-LPU contains UV absorbers and will not yellow or lose gloss for years, depending on exposure. WR-LPU kits contain a can of paint and a bottle of crosslinking material.The paint by itself cures to a very high-quality coating without the crosslinker. However, adding the crosslinking material produces a tougher and more durable film. It will be more chemical and fuel resistant, have better gloss retention and generally last longer.
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Use WR-LPU for both interior and exterior surfaces. It is not intended for continuous below waterline use. Used as a clear finish without the primer, it can beautify and protect wood from discoloration and degradation.
Mix ratio by Volume: 2 oz/Gal
Solids by Weight: 36%
Mixed Viscosity: 75-80 KU
Application Temperature Range: 55-90°F
Coverage: 350-400 sq ft/Gal
Pot Life at 77 degrees F: 8 hours
Drying Time at 77 degrees F: 60 minutes
Recoat Time at 77°F with no crosslinker: 14 days maximum
Recoat Time at 77°F with crosslinker: 24 hours maximum
Number Of Parts:
how can this be matched to federal yellow?
rv: did you check the color chart for Sinclair Yellow I believe it is quite close to what you are looking for.If not there are two reviewers on here who used Basf pigments to customize with satisfying results. Im also curious about this and am contacting System Three tech support to learn more.
Call System Three, they will be able to advise you.
System Three will match any colour that you ask for a small upcharge. It has to be done at the plant.
My boat was painted with a custom color. I sent a color sample to System Three and they matched the sample for me. Good match too. Tom B
Thank you sir,I bought a can of that yellow and a small can of white as well in hopes.of fine tuneing the colors to match.I appreciate the help and I'll keep all infomerd on the rusults. Thx againR
Hey Tom, thanks for the advice, that's a great idea ( I can't believe I didn't think of that).....I'll give it a try.Take careR
Can I apply the WR-LPU topcoat several months after applying Mirror Coat without sanding? Grant McPherson
Hi Jason,Is scuff sanding wet or dry?Thanks.Grant M.
I think you would probably want to sand the mirror coat first but my recommendation would be to call System Three's technical hotline. They've been very helpful answering my questions in the past. Hope this helps.
You will want to sand the mirror coat to allow the paint to have something to bite into. A scuff sanding with 100 grit to remove any gloss is necessary.Jason
By Mirror Coat assume you mean the epoxy based product by System Three. Generally, I would say "yes". I've put WR-LPU over epoxy coatings in a number of situations without any adhesion problems. I do recommend light sanding; in your case to knock down the gloss a bit. I'd probably sand to 220 or even 400 grit wet dry sandpaper. I also would recommend using a System Three primer (WR-155).
You should dry sand the mirror coat. I sanded their primer down to 220 and had problems with the paint lifting from the surface. I highly recommend that you scuff away all gloss before painting. The paint lays down well and comes out very nice but you need to apply it during periods of high humidity. I applied mine at night.Jason
Hi Brandon,Wet sand or dry sand?Grant
Thanks Robert.You're not the first to make that comment.Grant
Wet sand would be fine but don't go any finer than 320 or 400. Dull the gloss and give the mirror coat finish a little "tooth" for the LPU to grab on to. Again though, call the folks at System Three. My experience has included applying the LPU over the "Yacht Primmer" or recently cured epoxy. I've never applied on top of "Mirror Coat" myself. This stuff is chemistry, not just mechanics. Call the guys that know; I would. Good Luck!
Grant, I would say NO in the strongest terms possible. This paint is not going to adhere to a smooth unprepared and sanded surface. My experience with the product has not been good and I will never use it again or recommend it to anyone. I applied three coats using the roll and tip application on top of the System-3 primer only to have it bubble up and then peel off in large sheets the next morning. The temperature was in the 60's and the humidity was 70% during application.I will never use the paint again.
What is the difference between clear gloss and clear satin? I just need a clear coat to protect my sailboat epoxy coated cockpit table from yellowing from UV damage.
The satin gives the final appearance as a rubbed look. The gloss is very shiny and reflective. The wood shows through clearly in either case and the finish is smooth to touch.
Both are clear. Gloss finish is shiny - and with polishing looks like glass. Satin is more of a dull finish.
First of all I have not used the clear coat in this product. I have used the paint in this product with great results. To answer your question though the gloss should give you more protection but of course will look glossier. Application and results will vary depending if the surface to be covered is raw wood or an existing finish. If the surface is raw wood I would seal it with a coat of System 3 epoxy, sand then apply the topcoat. The epoxy will help seal the wood from moisture.
JAMES R MOBLEY
The satin is less reflective. If you just want a smooth clear finish on something then choose satin. If you want to see your reflection then choose gloss. I have personal experience with using the gloss to create a high gloss surface. For the maximum effect use 5 coats of gloss and then wet sand down starting at #1200 moving down to #6000 grit.
Thanks,I will use this only for one purpose. I am building a boat and making my own counter tops out of epoxy and acrylic flakes from acstone dot com. I need this linear poly to prevent the epoxy from turning yellow. I plan to roll it on.
The product name says it all. One is a gloss, nice and shiny. The other is satin sort of semi-gloss. I did not notice any effects in the uv coatings at all. I use the poly outside over the teak coatings. It is great stuff.
I have used both- The Satin leaves almost a flat finish but has a little sheen, when sprayed it also is a little course to the touch some what like a 1000 grit sand paper.The clear coat Gloss is somewhat a semi-gloss finish, I found is very difficult to apply with a spray gun compared to any solvent based paints. My experiences with a spray gun are if you spray to get an even small level build it will sag, run and orange peel. If you spray it in small builds like normal spraying or not to sag it leave a course or ruff finish. I have found it is a very difficult paint to use on vertical surfaces. However it will buff to a fantastic finish with the expensive 3M systems and allot of time consuming elbow grease with a buffer. My findings- to obtain a (normal not heavy) level smooth finish it takes to long to dry and then runs, again to apply like normal paint in thin coast leaves a ruff finish-I could not easily find a happy medium between the amount of coats to build. I tried various high quality spray guns with different tips, inside a temperature controlled room with the same results, believe me I tried and wanted this to work, there is way to much work evolved to get a halfway decent finish--there is to many much easier products out on the market equivalent priced. Let me put it his way that may help- I would never paint a car with it, but maybe my wheel barrel or bench vice, my opinion is it is not a fine finish paint without allot of un-necessary time consuming work. On flat surface like a table it may work well were it can't sag.I have never brushed or used rollers with this paint because not the type finish I am looking for.How ever don't get me wrong---form a durability stand point it is the best water based paint I have ever used-it is tough stuff, if you use it make sure you put the Cross Linker that really makes this durable. Very solvent resistant and when cured appears very impact and scratch resistance.Just my experiences---
Can this product in clear be put over other water base paint ?
I don't know. I used the poly topcoat over the System Three primer with excellent results. If I were you I would call System Three technical support and see what they have to say.
JAMES R MOBLEY
Hey Greg: I haven't done this, so I would ring Systems Three.They are very helpful...Why not ask the experts?I loved this stuff!Lincoln
While I have no direct experience using it over paint, if it in sound condition, I don't see why it wouldn't work. It works fine over epoxy.
I want to brighten up the whole exterior of my 88 sea ray, will the clear adhere to the gelcoat and not turn yellow over time?
I suggest that you call the tech help guys at System Three. They are very helpful.My expectation is that it will work fine. You will first need to prep with a fine sanding (330 grit), then 4 coats of clear, then wet sanding and buffing.I recommend that you first try the 3M perfect-it buffing system to see if you can give new life to the existing gelcoat. That would be better than any new coating.Good luck.Mark
I applied the clear gloss to epoxy sealed wood. It is crystal clear and hasremained clear after 8 months of exposure. It is easier to work with if applied in cool humid conditions. Maximum thinning with water also helps.
My experience was that the system three water borne epoxy primer is an outstanding product.However, I did not have much success with the white top coat which had problem areas with adhesion and seems to have lost its shine after two seasons.My experience with Awlgrip and other LPU's has been very satisfactory.
Thanks for the quick reply, I have used the 3m gelcoat restorer and other products with results to a marginal degree, but I do know the quality of polyurethane and it's low maintance quality, The boat was left uncoverd for a number of years (by a preivious owner) and was oxidised badly, I've spent countless hours tring to bring it back, and it's close but two days in the sun and the oxidation returns, so this is the reason for the urethane. And particularly the water based product, as I will be spraying it outside (if wind permits). Thank You
i want to use WR-LPU clear over freshly cured penetrating oil finish. is this advisaable?
I found adhesion was very poor over a FULLY cured finish. It was peeling with the first abrasion to the present. Once nicked, the System 3 finish peeled off in long sheets 2 or 3 inches long. I would avoid this product. Send it back if you have not used it. If you have, write to System 3 and tell them what you think of it.
I haven't tried that, but my gut tells me that applying any water-based topcoat over a fresh penetrating oil finish would be risky.
I am not sure what is meant by "freshly cured"...penetrating oil finish.If what is meant is a penetrating epoxy, then this should work perfectly, provided that the surface is first rubbed with a wet rag to remove any blush.If what is meant is really an oil, then I would think that the water-based System Three LPU finish would not work at all.Why not ask System Three? They are very helpful.
No - not at all. You cannot apply t this to any oily surface, even if it's dry to the touch.
I have never used LPU over oil finish - I applied mine over epoxy. I would ask the manufacturer for advice.
I need an exterior clear satin deck finish to paint over wood on our porches. Looking at System 3 WR-LPU and need suggestions. Don't want it to be slippery, but want a clear wood finish.Any thoughts?james Ewing
I wouldn't use this product for that. This is going to seal the wood its going over and really needs to go over wood that is epoxy encapsulated. If the wood is going to move with weather conditions this isn't the thing to use. There are plenty of dedicated porch and deck sealers and oils that would be a better choice. The best application of this product is exterior encapsulated brightwork.
I used the WR-LPU on my wooden drift boat, Used three coats on the hull with a crosslink on the final coat. It looks great and has held up well. I used the same material on the floor, three coats with the cross link in each coat. It to has held up well, it does not appear overally slippery while getting in and out of the boat with wet feet.I thinned the product as much as possible (within the manf. recommendations) to get it to flow. However I was painting over epoxy (system three) and not raw wood.Hope this helps
The System Three WR-LPU is very durable, looks good, and is not too slippery. But it's best used over epoxy-coated wood rather than bare wood. That's because without the extra thorough epoxy coating, water will still find a way into the wood to cause expansion and contraction. A more flexible varnish can stretch to withstand this expansion and contraction.Incidentally, System Three has excellent technical information on their website.
Mr. Ewing,Paint is great, but you will want to take a shaker with sand or other grit like substance and shake it on to the wet paint, to protect from slipping. Wet Poly is a slippery substance. This would be like for non-skid decks on boats. Look for other suggestions in this vein. Paint lasts in the boating world upwards of 6-9 years. I've used it for all sorts of projects. Multiple coats is best just the last coat for the grit or you can do additional grit coats.Fred Gass
In my opinion It would most likely be too slippery. It is a very hard and smooth (assuming the wood is properly sanded) finish. It is certainly possible if the deck is under roof and is not consistently wet that there might not be too much of a slipping risk but I suspect leather soled shoes would definitely be a problem.John
JOHN C HUMPHREY
painting the inside of a drift boat that's had some major repairs. need to cover the fiberglass work. would a one-part ployurethane or a two part liear poly be better?
2 parts are tricky and dangerous. Save them for the nice shiny hull. Use a 0ne part for the interior. Fast easier, safer.
A one-part paint will do the job. The two-part paints excel at gloss retention, probably not the most important factor in a drift boat interior, they are also more difficult to use. Make sure to use the recommended primer and follow all the instructions.
I used this two-part polyurethane paint in Whidbey White on the inside and outside of a new glassed plywood skiff, and am very happy with the whole process and result. The paint goes on easily, is almost odorless, cleans up with water, and dries in about an hour for a second and third coat. The manufacturers recommend waiting two weeks before using the boat. The result is a very hard smooth clean surface that looks like gelcoat, and is hard to scratch.
I can't answer wich one works better as I used the System Three white on my bottom w/fiberglass, I tryed rolling on first and it left bubbles in the paint, had to sand those out, then I tryed brushing on with a good grade brush and found the paint did not level out when dryed, so I sanded that surface and opped to buy a HVLP sprayer and found it to be the best way to apply this, but be aware you will have to wet sand and rub out to get a even gloss as spraying the paint dries out pretty quickly so it hard to mantaine a contant gloss from your overlapping spray pattern, in the end I am very pleased with the look of the paint w/ crosslinker.
The one-part might be enough but the two-part will definitely out perform because of the cross-linking nature of two-part polys....imho. Over all hardness and adhesion will be better and probably UV protection as well....thus the higher cost.
Since this was my first ever boat building experience, I'm really an absolute amateur, probably not the best one to be answering questions. But I used the two part (with cross-linker) and am very happy with the results. Since it's reputed to have superior durability, and since it requires no extra effort other than to measure in a few drops of cross-linker, I see no reason to not use the two-part type. I think, though, that the fiberglass needs to be thoroughly sanded for good adhesion. That's what I did, followed by two coats of their flat gray yacht primer, and then the 2-part urethane. Just one year old now, but seems to be very durable.
I recommend the two-part. It is easy to work with and it will wear better.
The terms can be a bit confusing. I have used solvent based 2-part urethanes such as Awl Grip and two part water based urethanes such as System Three besides the typical one-part urethanes both solvent and water based. The two-part systems cure to a much harder surface which I think you might want for the interior of boat that is likely to banged up a bit. I like the System Three system because you can put multiple coats without the catalyst on without sanding and then two coats with the catalyst for a tough surface. But water based urethanes dry fast and that can prevent a nice flowout leaving you with a less than smooth surface. Products like Awl Grip are more problematic with the fumes and need to have catalyst in every coat and also need sanding between coats but the flow out is incredible leaving a mirror smooth surface (assuming no sags or drips). Incidentally the catalyst for the System Three system is called a cross-linker. Without it the urethane is linear, with it there is cross-linking between the linear molecules making a supposedly denser and tougher surface. So linear does not necessarily mean two-part, but any catalysed urethane is going to be much tougher (I think) than non-catalysed urethane. There is also the philosophy that a plain top-side paint is much easier to re-coat in the future even though it will require re-coating more often. Any urethane is very hard to re-coat and assure adhesion between the layers (a side effect of the hardness). I apologize for not having a direct answer but I hope I have helped the thought process some.John
JOHN C HUMPHREY
I have sprayed 8 gallons of this so far...
This is an extremely tough and much safer 2k solution to topside paint. I have used it from the boot stripe up and even custom tinted the hull using BASF pigments. Great paint.
overall great paint.
I have just recently used this paint on my 34' hatteras sportfish. So, to start off I used the Silvertip two part epoxy water based yacht prImer, sprayed with an HVLP gun, the results were great, everything went as planned. Next came the "orcas white" color coat, it sprayed ok through the HVLP but not as I was hoping. After some asking around at local boat yards I was advised to try a non-HVLP spray gun, so I tracked down a low budget "high pressure" gun and gave it another go... The results went from ok to great. I opted to use the clear coat over the color coat to give extra protection and gloss, it also sprayed great with the "high pressure" gun. I am currently in the process of wet sanding and buffing the clear coat and I must say it looks awesome. One thing to keep in mind is water borne paints are EXTREMELY affected by climate. Air flow is a good way to control dry time if in a cooler environment (ie air movement dries the paint), if it is hot do not try to paint large areas. I chose to wet sand between primer-color-clear coats, if you wet sand MAKE sure your paint is totally cured, otherwise it will start pealing off the plastic wrap (very scary!), if in doubt wait longer. The painting over my boat took place in temperatures ranging from 60-80 degrees F, my boat is located in a non environmentally controlled shrink wrap boat house. Everything from the rub rail up was refinished.
Cape Ann, MA
Information not in the Application Guide
Whatever your painting should be in a covered environment for an extended time. Not a simple matter for my 38' sailboat.I wrote to System 3 tech support the following questions:I'm preparing to paint the deck of my sailboat with your WR_LPU. I have used this before. I will be painting several coats early in the morning outside in the open. My question concerns moisture that will occur after painting. Such as dew the following morning or possible rain in the following days. The decks are well drained.Is this type of moisture detrimental and if so in what way? Appearance or performance of the paint?Thanks, PaulTheir answer:PaulWe recommend that the paint stay moisture free until the proper film thickness has been achieved (5-8 mils). After this is achieved, moisture contact from dew shouldn't be an issue as long as it's removed regularly. I would avoid rain contact for the full 14 days to get proper cure. You basically want to avoid any long-term water contact to prevent the coating from being compromised.
Great and esy finish
This was my first attempt at spray painting anything and I am delighted with the result. If you apply very light coats running is absolutely minimal. For the few runs that did occur I would remove them immediatly with a foam brush. Becaause the paint dries sufficiently to recoat in a dew hours, multiple coats can easily be applied in a single day.This paint gives off virtually no fumes and requires no special breathing protection beyond a regular respirator. Nice!Because it dries quickly bugs and dust are not a problem. Different colors seem to have different hiding qualities. The Whidby white covers well while the sinclair yellow reqrires at least two extra coats to get a full deep finish. While not considered a high gloss paint it is very close to one and moe thaan sufficient for my purposes in painting my boat deck where I prefer a slightly less glossy finish. A gloss clear coat can be added if necessary.
One of a kind
The critical factor with this product is that it is safe to spray. Other epoxy paints are far too dangerous to use without a professional spraybooth and related equipment. As other have said, the temperature needs to be cool and humidity high as the paint is waterborne and dries too quickly otherwise.I was able to get very satisfactory results spraying this paint in my basement using a cheap HVLP sprayer. This was my first time using a spray gun so obviosly I was learning as I went. It took several tries but in the end the finish is far better than anything I have been able to do with the roll and tip method.Resist the temptation to put on heavy coats. You can recoat within 30 minutes anyway while removing runs means waiting a day and then sppending a lot of time doing heavy sanding. I found that wiping runs with a foam brush immediatly was best. It left some brush marks but those were much easier to sand and level than runs. It took 60 grit paper to sand runs the next day as this paint is VERY tough even before the epoxy fully cures.The finish is satin - not gloss although you can apply a clear coat for that purpose - which I have not tried. In my case I am painting the deck of my sailboat and I wanted a satin finish to reduce glare and make imperfections less obvious. I seem to have a slight but amazingly even orange peel on the finish. My wife really liked that effect and creditied me with the skill when in fact I just wasn't able to do otherwise. In truth I like the fact that it has a hint of texture too. If you are satisfied with a satin finish that is safe to apply, a breeze to clean up, is tough as nails and looks great, this paint is the only one out there that I am aware of that can do all those things well.
Great Coverage and Ease of Use
Good leveling characteristics but be sure to monitor runs on vertical surfaces. Do not walk away from project until surface sets up. I was able to put on three coats within a two hour period. Be sure to mix only the amount you can use up in less than a half hour to be safe. I highly recommend this product.
Phil Ohio Martin
You need measuring cups to mix batches. I used this paint to redo my cars aluminium wheels. Looks great. Bainbridge White is a lighter grey than the comput er paint chip shows. Too bad there was not a larger of choice of colors. Have enough paint left to paint my boat.
Cultus Lake, B.C.
Good product with the right prep
I've used this product on a boat build before the one that I'm currently working on. On that first build I had good results with the "roll and tip" method. However, I still thought it could look better as there were subtle streaks in the finish.For the current boat build I used a HVLP sprayer with a 1.5 mm needle. I painted the interior of the boat with this method. The problems that I encountered were easily resolved still annoying.I prepped the area with the manufactures recommend primer and sanded (a lot). Cleaned with alcohol and masked off the area to be painted.Setting up the viscosity was easy since it just requires mixing in some clean water. I did a few test sprays to get the flow right and started painting. The first problem that I encountered is that the paint went on with kind of a rough finish and the individual droplets weren't flattening out and merging together very well. This left the surface rough. I live in FL and the temp was right around 80 and the paint was partially drying before it hit the surface. To solve this I got a bucket of ice and put a coil of my spray hose in that. It solved the problem.Additional problems are that this stuff needs to be sprayed VERY thin with multiple coats or it will run, especially on vertical surfaces. That required sanding and reapplying. Lastly because you're limited to 24 hours between re-coats (without sanding). So if you figure you want 3 coats (at least), and it takes about an hour between coat and add it the time to actually paint the surface then you need to plan accordingly.After I finished coating the interior I went back over it with a 600 wet sand. The instructions say you can sand up to 1800 for a gloss finish. But this was the interior and I was very happy with the results after the 600.In the end this product produces a fantastic looking highly durable finish. It's a little finicky and requires a degree of "elbow grease" to get that final great result.
Order more than you need if you are spraying. You will need to practice. Once you determine the right feed and speed (less and faster for me) it goes on beautifully. Could use more gloss. I will try to polish or clear coat if that does not work. It really does cover ell and finishes smooth.
I use this exclusively on the skin on frame kayaks I build at Tidewater Small Craft. Over a thick Dacron skin, I first build a thin film of System Three Clear Coat that saturates the weave of the cloth. Then three coats of the WR-LPU using a standard black foam brush. The first coat looks blotchy and dull, of course, but by the time I get to the third, the blotches are gone and it has reached a nice semi-gloss. And what I like best is the strength of finish, very abrasion resistant. This gives my clients a lot more confidence on what is very light-weight boat.