System Three Clear Coat epoxy resin is a very low viscosity (thin), almost colorless epoxy system with a long pot life and cures without amine blush.
Unlike some of the so called penetrating epoxies, Clear Coat contains no solvent. Furthermore, it is a very strong system when cured whereas the penetrating epoxies have little in any strength or resistance to moisture.
System Three Clear Coat wets out fiberglass cloth almost instantly and is sometimes used to build furniture-grade strip planked hulls. Use this epoxy as the base coat in fiberglass gel coat blister repair, particularly when the gel coat has been removed to expose damaged and loose glass fibers. Ideally suited for clear coating wood, it is also used as a primer or base for varnish and linear polyurethane coatings.
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Viscosity at 77 deg F: 500-680 cps
Density: 9.4 lbs/gal
Viscosity at 77 deg F: 190-210 cps
Denisty: 8.1 lbs/gal
Mixed System Properties:
Mix ratio by weight resin/hardener: 100/43
Mix ratio by volume resin/hardener: 100/50
Working time at 77 deg F: 60 min
Working time at 77 deg F (with 2% TurboCure): 30 min
Minimum use temperature (without TurboCure): 60 deg F
Minimum use temperature(with 2% TurboCure): 50 deg F
Maximum Service Temperature: 160 deg F
Typical Cured Properties:
Full cure at 77 deg F: 3 days
Tensile Strength: 7800 psi
Tensile Elongation: 8 percent at break
i am looking to treat the out side of plywood projects i make at home, simple shelacks have failed after one year, i need something shinney and very strong to keep the plywood great for year after year what would that be?
That would work much better than most other finish's, I would recommend using the accelerator.
I use clear coat inside beer mugs and it stands up to years of beer, wine, whiskey, coffee and other assorted liquids, so I doubt a little rain would bother it.I have no direct experience using it as an exterior finish.
If it is going to be outside in the sun, it doesn't have any UV protection and will deteriorate over time unless you coat it with something like a spar varnish with UV protection.
I use clearcoat on a plywood boat transom. However it must be topcoated with a quality varnish for UV protection.
I use clearcoat on a plywood boat transom. However it must be topcoated with a quality varnish for UV protection.
Shelack is not a very durable finish. It works quite well for sealing difficult or oily woods prior to applying a final, more durable finish. I use System Three Clear Coat Epoxy Resin. It is almost water thin and soaks into the wood so it may take two coats. The sealed surface will now be waterproof. If your project will be exposed to direct sunlight you may want to finish off with Marine Spar Varnish which contains a UV inhibitor. Spar Varnish will impart a slightly amber tint.
What is the recoat window for System Three Clear Coat? It says full cure in 72 hrs. Does this mean it can be recoated within 72 hours without sanding first?
I sanded after cured and buffed finial coat with white diamond
I recoat after 24 hrs. with no issues. According to the System Three Epoxy Book (link on their website), Clear Coat can be recoated anywhere between the "soft set" stage and full cure (72 hrs.) without sanding. Good luck, Jim
If you recoat before full cure then the first coat will never fully cure. Go the extra mile and wait then sand and recoat.
I usually do a second coat in about 24 hours with no problem.
Can this be used to repair delaminated marine plywood?
Don Last Name
I use this product to impart a clear durable finish to wood items. This probably would not build up or adhere layers of plywood to each other
Not recomended,I would use a "laminating" resin for repairs.The System 3 clear coat is a "top coat" resin.
The question is too broad and undefined as delaminated plywood could be anything from the top layer only - to total delamination of multiple layers. It might work if it was only the top lamination - but, I think even that is doubtful. The consistency of the product is between a water thin penetrating epoxy sealer, and a standard epoxy glue. It is thin enough to penetrate wood if the ambient temperature is above about 70F. I have used to wet out fiberglass cloth as it is thinner and penetrates better than the thicker epoxies.I have also used it as a poured, self leveling sealer / base finish in the bottom of a bathroom vanity cabinet over which vinyl tiles were installed to provide a sealed, waterproof cabinet floor under the drain and water lines.
I really don't know. I use it for wooden beer mugs rather than boats. So I am keeping liquid in, not out.
would this be good to repair a delimited marine plywood deck?
More than likely a good choice, I assume you mean delaminated. You may have to thicken it, and of course the delamination needs to be prepared for repair or replacement. System 3 is very good for most marine repairs in wood and fiberglass.
a delaminated deck I presume.It won't fill the gaps. There is no free lunch. I think it would seal well but doubt it would stand up to foot traffic.
I'm not sure if you can re-laminate it with this product. You may need to replace the wood. It will however give you a nice finish over wood, I've got four coats on my deck and it covers, wets out and dries great. I highly recommend it as a finish coat epoxy!
??? I am a sculptor who wants to finish a 6 ft tall wooden sculpture( tulip poplar wood). I am trying to decide how to finish the wood before painting with gloss spray can enamel (Valspar). There are some surface imperfections from earlier sanding. I have considered Kilz2 white or System 3 epoxy as a prep coat before final sanding and painting. Any recommendations would be appreciated... thanks
Paul H Schneider
If you use the clear coat epoxy to prep the wood you can always remove any paint you apply. Not so if you first paint bare wood. I like using the clear coat epoxy on wood. It allows a coating on the wood before painting. I suggest a stain on wood then clear coat epoxy.
I suppose the epoxy would fill small imperfections . I have had the best luck with marine spar varnish(oil base) for outdoor wooden projects. Four coats. I prefer gloss.
System 3 will seal the piece, it has little amine blush to worry about. If you want to fill the imperfections you will need to mix in some filler, either micro balloons or silica or maybe sanding dust. My experience with painting over epoxy has been good, it takes paint well.
I think in your case the epoxy would be overdoing it. I used the epoxy to waterproof a small hull, If your sculpture is going to be placed outdoors it might make sense.
Michael, Thanks for your reply. I plan to use Clear Coat to seal the entire piece followed by light sanding then a primer coat of Killz white primer & sanding before the final enamel coat. Killz allows topcoat to be either water or oil based top coat. Valspar spray enamel for the final coat.
Paul H Schneider
Looks like I forgot to mention you have to wash the epoxy to get the paint to stick reliably. I use hot water with ammonia to make sure all the wax is removed. That's when I wet sand.Good luck.
Clear Coat is a thinner coating that is good for clear finishes.After using Clear Coat or regular System 3 I wet sand to get out the surface imperfections. System 3 recommends waiting a couple of weeks for the epoxy to cure before overcoating. Have you considered a primer paint coat and sanding before the final finish? Fussy but it gives good results if you're going for the gloss.Good Luck.
Michael, thanks for that important bit of advice. I appreciate your help, paul s.
Paul H Schneider
I didn't see any coverage info in the spec sheet. What should I expect over white oak? I am building doors for my trawler.
But how many sq ft per coat per kit?
I am trying to determine how many sq ft a pint kit will cover over white oak. Thanks Bob
I love this product. I have used it in several applications, from coating wooden window sills against the weather and sun, and indoors on kitchen countertops. It is easy to apply and covers well. It should be thinned for the first coat to allow for penetration. Afterwards, successive coats only require light (320 grit) sanding before application. I will also be using it, along with epoxy fairing compound, to repair cracks in my concrete slab floor. I don't expect any problems.
My best results with any raw wood will be to apply with a closed foam roller and cris cross for even application. Expect the grain and fibers to rise like any first coat so sanding with 80 grit works for me. Coloration will be as applying water but as it cures will lighten up. Watch for pooling or build up as these areas become shiny at first. Continue to sand and apply until the finish is desired remembering to brush out after foam roller. Do not go back after 10 min and try to touch up. After that be sure to ware sun glasses cause it will shine. You can also call System Three as they have a wealth of information that they will be very willing to share. Very ,very good productHappy sailing
I plan on using clear coat to wet out the fiberglass on my stitch and glue pram. Three coats on the weekend. Can I sand it the next weekend with 120 grit and put two coats of System 3 Silvertip laminating resin? Any compatibility issues? Thanks!
I have never used S3 clear coat for fiberglass work. I have used it to seal woods before gluing with S3 T-88 epoxy and am very satisfied with it as a product. It is sandable within 24 hours at room temperature. Actually, I found it to cure way too fast if you mix it in bigger batches.System 3 tech support is excellent. Go to their website to the tech support and email them your exact question. They will get back to you right away with specific answers and any tricks you might want to know. They gave me very good advice about using Clear Coat along with T-88.Have fun!
I have an older teak swim deck on my boat,it has been cleaned & sanded to new wood surface,I plan on putting 2 or 3 coats of system three clear coat on first,then a few coats of sikkens cetol for UV protection.Does anyone know if the cetol will stick to the epoxy? Thanks, RICH.
Sikkens doesn't recommend applying Cetol over epoxy, but from what I've read that's due to concerns with amine blush. System Three doesn't blush unless it gets wet, so I tried Cetol Gloss over Silver Tip (not Clear Coat) on my current boat project with great results so far. It adhered well and sanded seamlessly (i.e. it was like sanding multiple coats of either epoxy or Cetol separately, with no flaking off between the two). Of course, I can't speak to long-term performance in UV, saltwater, etc. since that was two days ago.
Can't answer the question. I use the clear coat to finish the inside of wooden beer mugs, shot glasses, and goblets. It holds up beautifully to beer, wine, and whiskey.
How much clear coat do I need to cover a 4x8 foot table top about 3/8 inch thick?
at least a gallon of product.
My sys 3 hardener is yellowing in the bottle. How can I keep it clear?,or is it a manufacturing glitch?
It is not a manufacturing issue over time all hardeners will start to turn yellow. Once it starts to yellow you can not get it to go back to clear. The only way to slow down the process of yellowing is to keep it in a cool and dark storage area.
Great for encapsulating
I am building a plywood cabin cruiser, and I have been using System Three products exclusively. Their Clear Coat is great for encapsulating wood and plywood. It only requires 3-4 coats to completely seal the surface and build some thickness for later finish sanding. Apply in thin coats and tip it off with a foam brush. That way you avoid runs, sags, and puddles. Its fairly easy to sand even after it has fully cures. Its is amazingly durable, even without fiberglass reinforcement, after it has fully cured. Overall I am very pleased with the System Three products.
I used this to make a few skim boards for the kids. I fiberglassed the bottom surface of marine plywood boards. Rather than painting accents directly to the board tops, I created rice paper decals for the upper surface. The fiberglass and decals became transparent when impregnated with the epoxy. As advertised, the epoxy is low viscosity and goes on thin. Working time at 55 - 60 degrees F was about 30 minutes, though setting up took several hours and curing took overnight. The projects came out very well. The epoxy is essentially clear and darkens the wood only about as much as a clear varnish. The finish is high gloss and very smooth, really bringing out the beauty of the wood. My project was essentially just a horizontal surface and required just two coats to embed and cover the fiberglass and decals. With 4 oz. fiberglass cloth, embedding the fiberglass took about 3 times the amount of epoxy as the finish coat. For a project with vertical surfaces it would probably require three or four coats to achieve the same epoxy thickness. Rough guess, for me, even with the fiberglass, each kit covered about 45 square feet (one coat). Without the fiberglass it would have covered more than 50 square feet.
Good Clear Coat
Works great on new wood
Like liquid glass
I use this on all of my custom wood plugs and couldn't be happier. It makes them look like they are floating in glass.
used to saturate canoe floorboards
Thin enough to saturate wood, I used to soak eastern red cedar which had some small cracks. It soaked in nice and is thin enough to flatten out brush tip marks before gelling. created a stronger board than I started with and I'll finish with spar varnish.
I used this to glass my cedar strip kayak. It's so thin I just layed out my three layers and then poured it on, it wet right out. I did had trouble not geting runs since it is so thin, BUT it is a dream to sand. It is perfect for clear coating finished wood.
Port Angeles, WA
Very high end product
I used this product to seal my fiberglass canoe after I used System 3 Quick fair and before I painted the canoe with a marine top coat paint. It worked great to make the boat waterproof.
San Diego, CA
Salvation for outdoor furniture!
Awesome product as a base coating that a spar varnish can then cover. A definate salvation to the time wasteing traditional approach of protection of outside wooden furniture!
Clear Lake, IA
"I will continue to buy this product."
This is a great product for both clear coating on raw wood by itself or as a primer for varnish top coats. It is also a super product for applying fiber glass cloth to a bare wood surface. Easy to wet out and makes sanding a pleasure.
Carmel Valley, CA
I have bought this product time & again.
I've used this product on many projects but the largest of those have been my clasic wooden boat restoration some five seasons ago. To date the boat still looks freshly restored. I would recommend this product as it has stood the test of time!