Quikfair Fairing Compound is a lightweight microballoon-filled fast-curing two-part epoxy fairing putty with excellent moisture resistance. Designed to be used on both fiberglass and wood-epoxy boats above or below the waterline.
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Mix Ratio by Weight: 2:1
Total Solids: 100 percent
Mixed Color: Tan
Pot Life at 77 degrees F: 10 Minutes
Tack Free Time at 77 degrees F: 3 Hours
Hand Sand in 3 hours
Machine Sand in 4 hours
Use protective gloves when working with this product. Use soap and water or white vinegar to clean off of your hands. Use Denatured Alcohol to clean off your tools.
Number Of Parts:
Rate Of Cure:
Can I use Petit easypoxy paint over system 3 quick fairing compound?
Yes. Prime first, though.
Yes. But I used a primer first. Would not recommend the fairing compound for serious filling. Works well under 1/16 inch fills. Fine product.
Yes, there should not be any problem. System 3 Quick fair mixes and goes on just like Bondo. But it is waterproof, it takes paint great. I love the stuff, just mix up the amount you need.
Yes but it would be better if you primed it first with two coats of hi build epoxy primer.
Dan,Thanks yes i know need to prime first.Smitty
I did not use that product. The area I painted was the square end of the canoe. I applied 4 coats of the spray Rustoleum enamel paint, which was then covered with a piece of rubber. The canoe has been out in the weather since last year and that area looks fresh even now.
How deep a hole can you fill with product ? If this is not suitable for deep holes what is?
It is used for filling in scratches and small dimples on the bottom of the hull. You use a long board sander to fair the hull to a smooth finish. Think of it as spackle.
A deep hole (over an 1/8th inch deep) should be properly repaired before using a fairing compound. Depending on the hull material and depth of the hole, fiberglass, or wood then fiberglass, should be used. You can then fair the surface with quikfair as a final step.
It's for shallow surface nicks and divots, maybe 1/8" max. For bigger holes you can plug with wood and add epoxy with lightweight fillers into the leftover gaps, or if the hole is smaller and through a panel, tape the backside and fill the front with regular epoxy mixed with wood flour, etc. to thicken it to toothpaste consistency.
Depends on the hole, simmilar depths as the product bondo for a car. When in doubt fiberglass it.
Generally QuikFair is not good for holes. I use P-11 epoxy to fill holes, then Quikfair to prepare a smooth finish before primer.
I have a wood hull 30' sailboat with an iron keel. The wood below the water-line will surely expand once the boat is in the water, so I am concerned about filling the gaps between the keel and the keelson, and between components of the keelson. Any advice you can give me?Phil
I have no specific experience with your task, but I don't think this is the correct material for you,I hardens very hard with no give - will likely cause expanding wood to crack or bulge as it swells.I believe something with some "give" would be more appropriate. Depends on width of the gap you are filling. 5200 sets up fairly hard as well, perhaps 4200 or a Polysulfide?
Thanks Carl,You think a 5200, a 4200, or a polysulfide may work? Can you get me more info on these products so I can choose which one would work best and where to get it?Phil
So I looked up the 3M 5200 and it looks like it will work. I want the surface smooth for a fast finish (its a racing boat). Can I use the 5200 to basically fill the gaps and the Quikfair system over it for a smooth, paintable finish? The seams to be filled are maybe 1/8" at most.Phil
Urethane (5200, 4200) are paintable.I would think wood expansion pressure on the joint would cause the QuickFair to chip off, but that is a guess.You reaaly should find someone with a similar boat - I am extrapolating from carvel planked hulls and Fiberglass boat. I am not experienced with the types of stress and movement typical of racing sail boats.
Dear Phil;I feel like you are referring to the joints that have opened up in the deadwood, or the chunks of triangular and/or trapezoidal shaped timbers that fill the space between the keel and ballast and possibly a rudder post or horn timber. You could use quik fair, but it gets awfully hard and i'd stick with something more flexible, especially if the timbers are big, which they usually are. Opinions and situations vary, but you could use anything from an old timey workboat recipe of roofing tar and portland cement mixed together, to some flavor of polysulfide caulk. The other thing about quik fair is that, contrary to the name, i find it really isn't that quik to fair. It gets rock hard, making it tough on edge tools, and abrasives tend to cut down the wood around it more than the filler itself, which can be a headache. It can also kick off really fast when mixed in any kind of quantity. spreading it out wide and thin can extend working time, but even then it can get hectic. I used to use it given that it is clean and easy to mix up, but i've since gone back to microballons and low density fillers with epoxy. The little i use epoxy, i just try hard to keep everything super tidy while i work, and i haven't missed the convenience factor of quik fair from either a mess or time to cure standpoint. My handplanes and edge tools also don't take quite the beating. good luck!sincerely,Josh
how much area does this system 3 quick fair cover on bare fiberglass?
Nice stuff, sands easy leaves a nice smooth finish, but expensive like most of Systems 3 stuff. It's thick epoxy with filler. Depending on application I have gone to West system epoxy with micro fillers 403 or 406. West is tuff stuff, harder to sand but great for rough service areas.For economy try Evercoat light weight body filler. I got a gallon at Sherwin Williams industrial paint shops for $26.00 and change. This is very good and comparable to the fairing filler but is polyester not epoxy...again depends on service area?To answer your question it cover bare wood and glass good and adheres very well. But like any adhesive you got to get the surfaces clean and something to bite into. Make sure you rough the surface up a little. If you referring to bare glass cloth not recommended to thick for saturation for my liking.
What kinda of coverage is to be expected on bare fiberglass? Frederick
I'm used to wood where there might be a little more soak in. I always have plenty on hand, great stuff. In good weather I have applied in the AM and sanded in the afternoon. I still use WEST system but this stuff is great when you're in a rush.
Well it all depends on the thickness you need to fill things....and your ability to apply a filler smoothly to minimize sanding. The better the initial surface and the better the application skill, the less material. Just calculate the volume of material and divide by the thickness to get the coverage.....
I am not quite sure what you mean by "bare fibreglass". I have used this on "finished fibreglass mouldings for everything from filling in "dings" to finishing a repair or fairing a new installation. The coverage depends on the amount you apply and the number of applications. Unlike paint, fairing compound does not usually quote "coverage" as it depends entirely on you. Thinner applications followed by rubbing down and applying more is better than "laying it on thick". Hope this helps.
what is the coverage on this product?
This product works great when you need a fast way to fill or fair a small area. As you may realize; as far as coverage, it depends on how thick you need to apply fairing to reach a smooth surface. This compound is not cheap, so I would Not use it to fair a large deep area unless time was critical and cost unimportant.
I can only suggest that it is a 2 to 1 by volume mix and if you purchase the 1 1/2 pint size it will get 1 1/2 pints of putty. After that it will be up to your application concerning depth and width of area needed to be filled. You might consider filling a measuring cup to the one and a half cup level with sand (or similar substance) and seeing how far it spreads.
I have not started to use it. I'm still preparing the wooden hull. I expect use it over a considerable area particularly near the bow and stern where the wood strips were very difficult to arrange.
gee whiz.....its not a paint, its a filler/fairing compound. So the coverage depends on how you are using it.
So this product is compatible with the west system epoxy ... so you could apply the Smiths penetrating over the wood area first, then the west system for the base, and quick fair to finish fairing? All would be compatible?
System Three Quick Fair is compatible with all epoxy. It is easy to sand and very durable. That is why I use it in my boat shop. My research indicates that Epoxy is Epoxy. Just like regular gasoline is gasoline. The difference is in the hardeners. Just be sure to carefully read and follow the instructions and wait at least 4-hours before machine sanding.
Sure , should work fine.
I need to get the 1/8"+ hook out of my boat hull without flipping. About 24 square feet.How much do I need and how long after to polyurethane paint? What prep for poly 2 part paint?
David,thank you very much for your information. Very detailed. But, how much do you think I need for 1/8 inch X 24 ft.?Also, do you think it's going to give me much problem since I'm not flipping the boat.
I agree with David H., but prefer results I get with West System epoxy and phenolic microballoons.
I wait 24 hours before sanding. Sands really easy when cured. Be carefull can sand low spots easily. I have done both wet and dry sand with a final sand using 400 grit. I usually clean with thinner or denatured alcohol blow off with dry air then tack cloth if needed. The quick fair will soak up the paint, a light sanding might be required before a second coat. I have also sealed it with primer in the past to get a more uniform finish on a top deck. It will start thickening up in about 30 min you may want to mix a smaller batch at first till you get used to working with it.
what primer do you recommend?
I suppose it depends on what you are working on.I am rebuilding a 1956 ChrisCraft, mahogany and white oak. I used QuickFair for filling bottom screw holes (instead of bungs) with great success. It sands fair very easily. I the primed, or sealed, with CPES clear penetrating epoxy. Then bottom paint, which went on very easily.I have also found that sanded QuickFair takes filler stain OK when used above the waterline, but not as well as mahogany bungs, of course.
I've used Interlux prekote over top of it with good results mostly because that is what i generally have in my shop, though maybe anepoxy primer would be more specifically suited to it. Truth be told, I've gotten away from using quikfair for fairing/filling holes, etc., as i find it gets a little too hard for me and tends to not fair out evenly when used on a wooden surface. Who knows though, maybe I'm doing something wrong. In any case, good luck with your project.sincerely,Josh
I've had the best all around success with Interlux products. Especially Pre-Coat. It is heavy enough and sands easily so I can block it out to get a smooth finish with top coats.
not sure why you would need a primer.
how much surface would the 24 oz kit cover?
Approximately 1 sq. ft . Depending on depth of surface repair.
I'm a new customer recommended by William Dryer of Charlevoix MI, who probably buys a ton. A lot of my purchases are guess work, especially the screws, for I'm not knowledgeable about sizing nomenclature, but I'll end up with a great screw inventory. Ha!Your timeliness has been superb and your product explanations helpful. Thanks for the great job!
Not in love with this product
I used this to fare a very old canoe that I restored. I was convinced that this the "right" product to use since it does not absorb water. That may be true. What I was not pleased with is how hard it became and how difficult it was to smoooth. It was almost untouchable with sanding and needed to be filed. Considering that the surrounding areas are soft cedar this created quite a challenge. I was not thrilled with this. I also applied a small amount on several low spots on the stems and later learned that my stem tacks could not penetrate it. I did make it work but the effort was greater than expected. I would likely not use this again. I certainly would not recommend it for a wooden canoe although there are others that do.The color is also very obnoxious. I would have preferred brown or even white to the odd pink tone.
Excellent product. Fast Setting, and Curing, can paint Quick
Filled in dents quite easily. After paint, looks like new.
It works -filled a thousand 'pox' on 42'
You have multiple choices for filling material in fiberglass. This Epoxy works well mixing ratio of tow to one is not difficult to eye ball. I used it at very low temperatures around 30 -40. It takes longer to harden but it's a chemical reaction --you can't stop it from hardening any more that you can prevent HI tide!
Easy to use
Mixes and goes on just like bondo, But it was hard to sand. I waited a few days before I sanded , may have sanded easyer at 5 hour of cure time.
Fixed My Pere Marquette
My 45-yr old canoe sat out in the elements, which rotted the square-end wood and created a large crack in the fiberglass. I replaced the wood easily and applied the Quick Fair Compound, following your instructions to the letter. What a great product! I used my professional carpentering clamps and got a perfect result. It was easy to sand down for a good-looking finish. It took paint well. It should be good enough to last for years for whomever buys the canoe in the Spring! Thanks, Jamestown!
I M the Carpenter
Nice fairing compound
I am filling and fairing on a couple of different boats- one polyester/fiberglass, one wood/epoxy, and it works well on either material. I also used it directly on some foam core before glassing over it, and it seems to stick quite well to the corecell. It goes on much like "bondo", and is easy to work with and sand. It might be a little slow to cure in cooler weather.
Professional results with some effort
I refinished the cabin of my 1966 Tartan 27 ft. fiberglass sailboat. I mixed a small amount of this product in a 3oz.cup at a time to cover MANY hairline cracks and gouges because it hardens quickly at high temperatures. This is one tough product. You want to use it sparingly. Once smoothed with a putty knife and later with sandpaper when dry (I did a lot of hand sanding as well as using electric sanders), it looks great under a coat of quality paint. It's worth spending the time with this product if you have a big job at hand.
SAG HARBOR, NY
I have used all of the different West fillers with their epoxy and this product falls between the low density fill and their light weight microballoon fill. But this product forms a nice no sag consistancy withouthaving to add powder to liquid which cures to a sandable surface in around 4 hours. I use a small weight scale to meter the ratios.Good for creating a smooth surfaces on wood or fiberglass. It has minimal shrinkage save time refilling holes. I would avoid using this product where any type of strenght is required.
COBBS CREEK, VA
First time boat builder-Love this produc
Used this to fair my GV11. As a first time builder, I made mistakes and not so eye pleasing fiberglass applications. This product really made the final product look great.