Johnson Pump's Macerator Pump grinds toilet waste, shredding it before it is pumped into or out from the holding tank. It utilizes a high speed rotary cutter to shred waste efficiently. The pump consists of a brass shredder, nitrile impeller, and stainless steel shaft for corrosion and chemical resistance.
Johnson pumps are designed to allow direct interchange with other macerators for easy installation. Empties a 30 gallon holding tank in about 3 minutes. Suitable for bowl or holding tank discharge.
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Additional Features & Information:
Ignition protected motor, conforming with ISO 8846 Marine
Mounting bracket for easy replacement
Rotary cutter casing of PET (thermoplastic polyester)
Directly connected to sewage line or holding tank
Inlet: 1.1/2" threaded pipe or direct
Discharge: Direct 1" (25.4 mm) hose connection
Operates at either 12V or 24V 10GPM
The product states can be connected directly to the sewage line or the holding tank;Does that mean it will screw directly into the pump out fitting on the boat? Thanks Dave J
Looking at the photo: notice the hose receptical as it pushes on and then attaches via hose clamp.So; yes, the holding tank gets full and you can pump it out at a station or depending on your location - you can pump directly into the sea or flowing water (check the laws for your body of water). Pump works great and expect long life.
With this pump, what do I need to connect up and operate with my 1996 Fleetwood RV 5"? tank connector, and the discharge hose that is required (ie: garden hose?)Thanks,Jeffrey Johnston
I assume you are wishing to pump to a waste tank facility? Or are you wanting to empty while driving?Some RVers pump onto hot 'discharge plate' while driving and spew out a little at a time (ergo the black specs on the motorcyclists face shield).I use my on a boat which is different. The pump will pump out the ground-up mess to __________; the where must be known as you must conform to local laws.Obviously you can't dump raw sewage onto the highway or ground anywhere near civilization. Sorry I am not a good source of help; but, there are some of the things to consider. This pump will pump to a waste facility just fine....... wire it w/12 or 10 gage wire and an appropriate amperage switch - I use a push and hold or a spring loaded return to center will work also - avoid a constant on switch.
How far can it pump the waste?
It pumps 10 gpm; this is at a given NPSH (net positive suction head). Distance has determining factors.Is the discharge upward and have back pressure? Level or down hill?Your question does not have a specif answer.
I pump fish / bait over ten feet until it is discharged overboard. Would believe it could pump twice that distance.
the pump starts automatically when it detects waste water?
It needs to be controlled by a momentary switchThe design is so you have to hold switch down so you pay attention It does not detect water
Greg ... The pump is just that, only a pump. I bought one for a macerator application in a fishbox. The external switch on my dash turns the pump on/off. If you're using it in a waste tank, you probably have the same wiring scheme ... a switch to activate it for transfer. The only application of which I can think would have an automated on/off, would be as a bilge pump and you'd still have an external switch. Hope that helps. Andy R.
pump does not automatically start unless it is wired to a float switch or other devise. I have it wired to a toggle switch that is manually operated..
No as a rule. When your tank is near full, you turn it on.If you have a tank with instrumentation that would turn it on automatically; you would also need a by-pass or command switch ---- you do not want this pump to turn-on at its will. Ergo: turns on in the marina or yacht club or trolling in the channel past the restaurants. You get the idea. Mine only turns on via push and hold button.
Are the four through bolts brass or stainless. For all troubles i have had with Jabsco macerator is chemical damage to these bolts breaking off and allowing the macerator to twist and jam up?
Your boat dictates: one can attach to a treated 1" plywood and make foot pads that level the pump and glue to the hull.... no bolting to the boat itself thus no damage structurally.
The pump comes with (4) grommets to pop in and then slide over and lock in place in the screw holes, however it does not come with the actual screws, you will need (4) #10 screws preferably stainless or grade 8 if you want them really strong and you can use some Tef-Gel to put up a barrier coat, this will prevent any issues with the bolts/screws as far as dissimilar metals and prevent galling or any other issues, thank you.
is this 24v?
The pump I purchased was:JPI-102445301JOHNSON 10 GPM MACERATOR PUMPIt is a 12VDC pump. Sometimes there are alternate voltages available, you can usually find this in the catalog wit a little dinking around. Look for a button labelled "specifications."
If you have a 48 or 24 V system; you can tap into one of the 12V batteries. Sometimes a Ziner diode can protect to provide current only in one direction.Or you can use a gel battery and trickle charge.
The specs refer to a brass shredder. Surely this will corrode due to contact with effluent? Does anyone have experience on longevity?Andy
Brass when soft material is needed as a break-away. Else Navy Bronze also called brass by most. There is a difference and location is dependent on application.
Brass is used in most thru hull applications and more durable than other metals. It's application here is fine and will last for years.
Hi Andy,I replaced a unit that survived for 8 years, and it wasn't the shredder that failed. I used the same Johnson unit and have been happy with it.Another Andy
I have only used mine for a little over a year, and have not experienced any problems with it. After use I run a gallon or so of tap water through it. Brass is used in a lot of marine environments so I don't think it should be a problem.
How to install it between the existing tank and discharge pump out fitting on boat?
Jay Jones jay j
It is extremely straight-forward. If you are replacing an old one you should already have adequate wiring. If not; you'll need wiring ~12 ga and a switch. I use a push-and-hold type so it won't run unless you hold the button in. This way you can't forget or burn-up the pump. The suction line needs to be one that won't collapse (wire re-inforced). All else is simple. Ensure proper elevation for NPSH requirements. Will only lift so far from bottom of tank to center of pump.
I have a small access port in front of my outboards that I used. It was very tight and awkward, but I got the old one out and new one in. I suspect you can go to a different location, provided you're lower than whatever you e
Does the pump have run dry capability?
It is capable of running dry but not recommended. Check OEM specification and all operational instructions.Positive displacement pumps in theory should not run dry. It will cause accelerated wear.
What size fuse would you recommend?
manufacturer reccomends 25 amp
Used in RV application. No suction lift issue as RV is gravity feed to pump. Pump is mounted to plastic bin floor with supplied grommets. Louder than I expected but I did not do any isolation mount improvement. Attention is required when running as the suction can get ahead of the gravity flow as the tank gets close to empty. The only additional parts needed were plumbing pieces and a switch. Noteworthy is that the pump motor does not heat up or even warm up, a sign of proper sizing and bearings. A much cheaper way and just as easy as buying "kit" from camping suppliers.