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Back To Nature Aqua Strip is a marine finish remover that can safely remove up to 10 layers of bottom paint or varnish at a time. It remains wet for extended periods of time, and can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed.
Available in Quart, Gallon, and 5-Gallon sizes.
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Aqua-Strip will not damage the gel coat, fiberglass or any surface. Aqua-Strip stays wet for extended periods of time to penetrate and lift bottom layers. It is environmentally safe, biodegradable, non-flammable, and contains no methylene chloride or caustic.
For best results apply in temperatures between 60-80 degrees F
Covers approximately 60 square feet per gallon
Back To Nature
can I use this to strip sickens teak sealer and varnish without affecting the black poly urethane strips between the teak boards
If they are painted the answer is no, it will remove the paint. If it's not painted try a small area first to see if it affects the poly strips.
JD Tech Team
can this be bought at a retail store anywhere ?
Will this work for stripping bowling alley wood?
Sorry, I don't know
Can this be used to strip paint of Hobie 14 fiberglass hulls?
Yes, this is a good choice for fiberglass and gel coat.
used this product last year, but found stripping tedious, with only 1 layer at a time coming off - and the paint was about 10 layers thick. this certainly did not match the video. what was I doing wrong? suggestions?
actually, i never ended up using it. sorry for the lack of help.
Buy Jamestown's Circa 1850 Heavy Body Paint and Varnish Remover. Slather it on as thickly as you can and wait half an hour or so. Now apply more on top of what you already slathered on, paying particular attention to any dryish or dull areas.Now leave it alone for a couple hours. Then go after it with a good scraper like Sandvik with BAHCO blades.I cannot promise you will get through all 10 coats the first pass, but you will certainly get half of them.The key with strippers is letting them work. We have used Aqua Strip, but typically must let it work for 24 hours to get the same results we can with Circa 1850 in a third the time.Good luck. Stripping paint is the worst part of any restoration project for sure.
not sure this qualifies as an answer. is there no one who has used this product?jim
Is it possible to strip. Cabinet finish like lacquered or vanishe too?
sorry, dont know. used it for bottom paint,
I've never tried this product on those finishes, and can't speak to its ability to perform for that function. Aqua Strip works fine on marine bottom paint and is a lot less "fumy" than other chemical strippers I've used.
Will this produce remove powder coating from aluminum?
Don't really know how it would work in that application. We used it for stripping teak and it worked quite well for that.
will this product work on automotive type paint on metal?
Because of the several coats of clear-coat on cars, it won't penetrate properly, the only thing it will do is soften it up a little, so no. However we do sell "BTN-US01" which is the "Ultra Stripper" version from the same company, which remove's lacquer's and urethane's from metals and other substrates. Make sure you brush on a nice thick coating, let it sit for several hours, and keep the stripper moist, thank you.NathanJD Store(401)253-3840 ex130
I have an 18th century brass bed someone painted black. I am not sure what kind of paint was used, it appears to be just one coat of an enamel base paint. My question is, will the Aquastrip ACB damage the brass?
I have used Aqua Strip to remove paint from wooden boats and had excelent results. I am not an expert with metal but the bronze screws and ringshankl nail in the boat were not affected by the Aqua Strip. I would not hesitate to use it on the brass. As always do a test on a small piece first and see what happens. Good luck.AJ
ANTHONY J DEROSA
In a short "No" it will not hurt brass just follow the directions.
I have not tried it and would certainly recommend testing it on some other brass object first. Don't know what kind of surface you're going to have after removing paint. It may not be so good hence the paint. You may want to speak with a plating company. They would strip everything and replate. They could also tell you what chemical would be bad for the antique finish. This stuff is pretty gentle to skin compared with other stuff. It normally takes a cyanide bath to strip metal plated parts so I think your paint would fall right off before any damage happens to the brass.
I would not recommend contact with brass.
In a short "No" it will not hurt brass just follow the directions and all should be fine!
I doubt it would hurt the brass. I have had the stripper get on bronze thru-hull fittings and it does not hurt them
yes it will do with out any damage. i do lots of work on boats restore lots of brass cover with paint and was very good ended with aqua strip .very good stuff and it work .. good luck
Should be ok on brass. I would clean it well with soap and water afterwards. I used it on bronze thruhulls while trying to strip bottom paint. I don't know what you should use after that to keep the brass from tarnishing, maybe varnish.
How will this stripper affect bedding compounds and sealants used with thru-hulls and keel attachment? Will it affect Marelon thru-hull fittings?
I used this product to remove a thick coating of old bottom paint on a 23' fiberglass Bayliner and found it to be easy to use and effective on 95% of the old stuff. Never noticed any problems other than it will dry rather quickly on a warm Arizona day !
I had no problems with this product attacking anything other than the paint surface that I wanted removed. It did not bother any thru-hull fittings that I have on my sailboat. This product was easy to use and did not have any bad odors as it worked off the bottom paint. It did require some minor mechanical work to finish the hull clean up and surface prep. Wonderful stuff.
I'd replace any sealant it comes in contact with.it's best with a razor blade scaper.it doesn't work as good as the video I watched on the website,good luck
i used the stripper on an aluminum, centerboard boat w/ welded thru-hulls. so i really don't know. sorry.
I don't know how it will affect your specific bedding compound. I used it to remove bottom paint on a lapstrake hull with 5200 between the laps. the paint removed and the 5200 stayed in place. I would test it first on separate fittings or call the bedding compound manufacturer. I used Aqua Strip Marine which is one step stronger than regular aqua strip.
Pails arrived damaged
Doesn't work real well.of 3 gallons I received 2 were damaged the lid was off one and it was kind of curdled (didn't spread well nor work well) the second plastic pail was cracked and leaking.it needs to be better protected for transit.
Seems to work
In some spots it worked great but on my deck it only removed the top layer. Works great on removing bottom paint but was hard to apply. Olmost the consistency of pudding so it is hard to get a nice even coating and some what of a pain to cover in plastic. I just used very cheap painting tarps.
I am buying this product again
I used Aqua Strip on my 20 foot aquasport, let it sit over night in a heated garage set at 70 degrees. Went out in the garage in the am and used a plastic ice scrapper and removed better then 75 percent of the paint.Will do a second coat to get the rest of the bottom paint. This is a 1986 center console with all those years of bottom paint. Just ordered another gallon to finish up.
I would certainly use this product again.
I used this product to remove many coats of bottom paint from my Lyman Runabout. I applied, waited about an hour +/- and removed all paint with a pressure washer using a 15 degree tip Excellent results without damaging the wood.
Any time you use a stripper, it's gonna be messy! Better know that going in.That said, this product worked very well. I wasn't stripping paint, but rather several layers of clear varnish and other sealers on the oak rub rails of my dory. Not easy stuff to get off. Two coats and a little sanding did the trick, though.This stuff is "gloppy," sort of like thick caramel pudding that hasn't really set up. Hard to pick up with a bristle brush, so I used a small kitchen spatula to smear the stuff on top of the rail, then used the brush to spread it around.As others have said, it needs to be warm (not always easy in an unheated garage in NH). But I picked a good couple of days when the temps got to 80+. Then, keep your spray bottle of water handy--I spritzed every 30 minutes or so. Left the first coat on for about 10 hours, the second coat for about 4 hours.Scraped most of the stuff off, then used one of those green kitchen scouring pads with lots of water to get the rest. Keep a bucket of water handy and rinse often! Then a light sanding with 220 sandpaper. In the end, I was much happier to have used the stripper instead of trying to sand everything off. With the stripper, I was able to get all the junk out of the deep pores in the oak and I was left with almost completely new wood, ready to finish.It's not painless, but it works. And I love the water clean-up and the very low odor.
Easy bottom paint remover
Worked very well on my sailboat. 4-5 layers. Of course had to go back a second time to get the tough spots.
CANON CITY , CO
I used it to remove the bottom paint from my 22 footer. I applied using a plastic squishy, gave it two hour while prep the next area, came back rubbed the surface using scotch pad without removining it yet, gave it another half hour, then I washed with water assisted by a fresh scotch pad . I applied a second coat using the same procedure, and I got my bottom free from antifouling paint. Lucky for me humidity was about 98% while I used it, so it did not dried at any time. I haven't finished yet, I will buy more of it in the case I need more.
softens built up layers of bottom paint, but requires effort to scrape off paint, and only works one layer at a time. fumes are supposed to be non-toxic, however I found them very strong and a discomfort if breathed too long. would recommend a respirator - but type is not listed
Gentle on boat, but effective!
One has to apply a pretty generous paste to get the process going. Once applied and let sit for half an hour, scrape a little and mix with the rest of the application. It takes a bit of time though any stripper requires that. I used this on a centerboard in my basement, though I'd generally recommend ventilation even though there are no noxious vapors.
Works Well, But Be Realistic
OF COURSE it's "messy", people. It's a big bucket of chemical paint stripper. You slap it on thick and then scrape off layers of old paint. What did you expect? If you don't like "messy" then go pay the soulless clowns at your local boatyard $2000 to do it for you.For everyone else, a review:No, it does not quickly and easily remove 10 layers of bottom paint. I know because I've tried. But it works better than anything else I've used and I've tried a lot of them.Still, I'm sure it depends on the paint or something. Beats me, not an expert.And again, don't expect it to be quick and easy. It's not. Some tips:- Forget using some wimpy plastic paint scraper. Get yourself a thick, sturdy short-handled ice scraper for windshields. - The makers say to use it between 60-80 degrees: believe them. Remember that this is a chemical reaction you're inducing here and - if you went to school back before it was transformed into group therapy for poster makers - you'll recall that temperature is an important element in any chemical reaction. If it's much over 80 degrees or much under 60 the stuff just doesn't work nearly as well.- Yes, it dries out. Go get some really cheap, thin plastic dropcloth and when you're finished coating the boat, tape the stuff up over it, although usually it will just stick to it no problem. I've also used that Press & Seal plastic wrap stuff, which is good because you can do small areas and also uncover smaller areas at a time. Easier to use, too.- If you've got many many layers, as I said, you'll probably need to re-coat, but even if you don't, when you get done scraping there's some residue. Take a big green kitchen scouring pad and lightly scrub the little sticky bits that haven't come off yet. Don't wait until later because it'll harden again. Do it while it's still soft. Comes right off.- If you've got a layer of primer it probably won't come off with this, but a light sanding with 400 or 600 grit with water will ake that right up. Again, it's easier if you do it right away.- If you use this with your boat on a trailer, make sure you cover any parts of the trailer that you don't want the paint removed from. Those big globs of old paint that you're scraping off still contain enough stripper to quickly mess up your trailer paint. Take it from someone who once ended up having to repaint a trailer.- As several people mentioned, it can be a challenge to get it on thick enough, and it needs to be thick. Use a medium sized brush more or less like a spatula. Smear it on rather than brush like you would your walls. - No two applications are the same. The first time you use it you'll go racing out after it's been on a couple of hours and be very disappointed when absolutely nothing comes up. I always plan for it to be on for 24 hours, and I've left it on as much as 48. As long as it's covered with plastic, it'll be fine.Be realistic, plan ahead for the mess, and above all be patient and figure out what works best in your particular application. Yours wil not be the same as anyone else's.All I can say is that it DOES work, it works better than anything else I've tried and I bet it will work for you too.