Back to Nature Ready-Strip Marine can remove most varieties of marine paints & varnishes including anti-fouling, polyurethanes, enamels, teak oils, non-skid deck, latex paint, etc., in one application. Ready Strip is designed to remove up to 5 layers of marine anti-fouling paint in one application. It can be applied on a multitude of bottom and topside surfaces including fiberglass, wood (it will not discolor the wood or raise the grain), aluminum, etc. Will not damage gel coat, wood grain, or any surface. Ready Strip conveniently changes color to signal when paint is ready to be removed.
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Covers approximately 60 square feet per gallon
For best results apply in temperatures between 60-80 degrees F
Back To Nature
Does it harm epoxy under vanish ?
I don't know. My experience with Ready Strip was not good. It dried very solid and I ended sanding it off.
I do not know?
No, epoxy resin should be OK.
what is the rate of application? gal./sq. ft.
I don't recall. I bought this to strip thick old bottom paint off a fiberglass boat and didn't find it very effective.
I don't know exactly but I bought a 5 gallons to do a 27 ft sailboat and that was more than enough. However I wasn't happy with the product and would look for something else. I let it dry over night and It dried vary hard and would not scrap off.
I need to remove several layers of oil paint from a concrete floor. Have tried several options from the local home improvement store with limited success. I want to get down to bare concrete and start from scratch with stain and seal. Any suggestions? Thanks
Additionally , you should let the product work, maybe even overnight. If it appears to be drying out , lightly mist it with water. Concrete can be very pourous so a final application may need to be brushed on with a hard bristle brush to get all the old stuff out
It's an enviroment safe product that worked well on several layers of varnish on my boat. Not sure how it will work on concrete but its a good product.
How effective is this product on house shingles?
presumably the question refers to wood sidewall shingles.
first, WHAT? shingles are tar and fiberglass with adherred aggregate. It would make no sense at all to use anything that would disturb the aggregate. Second, based on coverage new shingles are much cheaper.
I have no idea. Why don't you ask the manufacturer?
ended not using product so i can not help
House shingles,It depends. I found this paint stripper friendly to use, but there are draw backs. If you are in direct hot sun with the product it could start to dry out which will slow or stop the striping process. Misting with water will soften the stripper. Also, after you scrape all the old paint / stripper off, the green stripper will be in all the cracks and small spaces and could be hard to get out. A pressure washer / wire brush comes to mind to get it all off. Hope this helps.
I don't know but it worked great on my boat bottom. I advise putting a drop cloth (preferably disposable) down first. It was easy to use. I went through a few cans on my 20 footer (multiple layers)
God awful. Doesn't work. Had more luck removing ablative with water than this junk. Come on Jamestown you can do better than this. Drop this product.
Absolute waste of time and money
Tried 8 differnt ways from Sunday to get this to work on a 13ft whaler whose paint was already coming off. Didnt make slightest dent. Wasyed 3 days and used powerwasher which pitted my gelcoat. Company should not be sellung this.
I had multiple layers of bottom paint on my 15' Whaler and, after reading the description of the product, thought that removal would be a one-step process. WRONG. Many, many applications followed by scraping and sanding are needed to get it off. This product doesn't have the power it claims to have.
I tried this to remove a single layer of what I believe was probably enamel over gelcoat. I tried scraping it after an hour (modest success) and then after 24 hours, wetting it after 20 hours. It lifted 25% of the paint at most. After that I went at it with a very sharp scraper, but I don't think the paint remover contributed much at that point.
works as described for me
worked well came of nicely almost leathery strips and work just as well actually better because it was easy to remove after 1.5 hours than it did after 12 18 or 24 or more.if it dries out "color changes" you can re wet with water. Use a metal single edged razor blade plastic doesnt have what it takes or will take longer at least. If there is ane paint residue left (slight tint aka thin layer) use a scotch brite and water and scrub it away. follow with some wet sanding paper and a compounding then wax.
best there ever was fiberglass
Does not work
Purchased this product to strip bottom paint from my project boat. Tried several different approaches: longer time to work and thickness of paste. Not one time did this product even lift the slightest amount of paint. Tried to reach the people at Back to Nature twice, left a message as per instructed and they never called back.
Beverly Hills, Fl.
Works pretty well
Works great if you paint it on and cover it with Saran wrap to keep it from drying out while it does it's work. My first attempt omitted the Saran wrap, so the thinner coated areas dried out before they could soften the paint much.On my second attempt, I used the Saran wrap method, left it on for 5-6 hours, and all the paint came off easily.
bottom paint removal
I used this to remove about 24 layers of hard bottom paint on my 1972 ss235. It took several applications, and a lot of scraping but it came out great right to the original gel coat. Followed-up with several barrier coats of interprotect 2000E