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Awlgrip urethane paints yield durable high gloss finishes to wood, fiberglass, aluminum, or steel, and may be applied with a paint roller, brush or spray gun.
Awlgrip finishes are renowned for their superior resistance to sun, saltwater, chemicals, and abrasion, and are ideal for coating everything from boat topsides, cabin tops, decks and masts, to engines.
Jamestown Distributors site also offers Awlgrip in quart sizes.
*** FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY ***
To help with color selection, order your FREE color chart today.
Important note: Awlgrip is a 2-part paint system, requiring both a base, and a converter. For spraying, use Awl-Cat #2 converter. For brushing, use Awl-Cat #3 converter. (Converters are sold separately)
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Long lasting; high gloss
Superior resistance to sun, saltwater, chemicals and abrasion
Appropriate for use on fiberglass, steel and wood
Above the waterline use only
Available in quarts and gallons
Custom colors available
Number Of Parts:
I'm restoring a 66 Boston Whaler. I'm looking for a paint. Awlgrip seems to refer to their polyester as an above waterline paint. What exactly does that mean? I'd like to paint the entire hull with the same paint. The boat will not be in the water 24/7. Weekends and that's about it. (freshwater) Is this a good paint for my project?
for your application, it doesn't matter. One small consideration is that the Awlgrip is VERY shiny and will show any defect underneath. If you want to show it (like in a competition)on the trailer, it might be an issue. Otherwise, it doesn't matter.
Bill H. Bill H.
Could you give me the converter number, and reducer number and the paint to converter ratio, and reducer?
I used awlcat #2 converter and T0002 reducer. One to one mix, and reduced 10%. They say reduction can be as high as 25% but shooting in 95 degree weather and 15% humidity I probably didn't need to reduce it at all.
Awlgrip has a great website that gives you all that info. Converter is 1:1. There is a brush and a spray converter. I always go about 10% on the reducer.
I have a fiberglass sailboat that was spray painted with awlgrip. What prep work do I have to do to repaint the boat with awlgip rolling and tipping?
Thoroughly clean the surface, scrubbing with powdered hold scouring cleanser. Rinse, wipe with Awlgrip Wipe-Down Solvent (Awl-T0008) using a two cloth method. Inspect the surface for pinholes and small scratches. Mark these areas with a pencil. Sand the imperfections with 80 grit paper creating both a feathered edge and a proper surface profile which to apply primers and fillers if needed. Prime these areas with 545 Epoxy Primer. Allow to cure at least 12 hours.After repairing and cleaning, sand the entire surface smooth with 120 - 180 grit paper. Remove all gloss from the previous finish. Blow off the surface while wiping with clean rags to remove sanding dust. Wipe surface with Awl-T0008. Prime entire surface with 545 primer, two to three coats may be needed for full coverage. Allow to dry at least 12 hours.Sand the entire primed surface with 280 - 400 grit paper to a smooth flat finish. Blow off the surface while dry wiping with a clean rag to remove sanding dust. Wipe down with Awl-T0008 using the two rag method (one wet rag followed by one clean dry rag). Repeat as necessary until surface is completely clean, allow surface to dry.Mix topcoat base according to directions and apply at least two coats.
My opinion is:1. If the existing paint is adhering well-no chipping, bubbling and is just dull or "weathered. Wash and Scrub the boat well to remove any residue. I'd wet sand or dry sand with 320 to smooth and remove any gloss. Then remove dust-use awlgrip method or your own. I'd then spray it. You will see any imperfections, wet sand, remove dust and recoat. Awlgrip is great stuff but relatively hard to get perfect!!2. Putting additional primer and more topcoat increases problems. Only do that if existing paint is not adhering-you wil have to sand or blast it off. Use the existing coat of paint as the substrate if it's in good shape.
Hi, can you mix custom colors?
I would not mix your own custom color from the base colors offered by Awlgrip. I've worked with many painters and they never mix them.
If you have custom colors from Awlgrip, I see no reason why you cannot mix them. They are the same composition.
Paint drip what to do?
You can wipe it off and start over before it dries or wait until it dries and sand the drip area. Just follow the directions, thin it out, take your time.
how much coverage do you get with a gallon of awl gripe mixed with a gallon of converter? does the high gloss have to be reduced or can it be sprayed on directly?
how much coverage do you get with a gallon of awlgrip mixed with a gallon of converter? I prepared the surface with AwlGrip primer, which creates a nonporous surface. With that, I was able to spray two coats on a 28 foot sailboat covering from the water line to the gunwale. does the high gloss have to be reduced or can it be sprayed on directly?I sprayed the high gloss directly, using a standard (non-HVLP) compressor. I topped the surface off with 2 - 3 coats of AwlGrip Clear, which really brought out the color.
I just painted a 34' sailboat in Jade Mist Green with a one gallon can of topcoat and convertor. Boat has a transom hung rudder so more material is required and I still had about a half a quart left. You will have less trouble with runs and sags if you thin out the material and shoot more coats. Awl Grip says a minimum of two coats is required with three preferred. I shoot three. Follow their process of applying a base coat and waiting 30-40 minutes or more before you shoot a full wet coat, wait another hour and shoot a finish coat. You didn't ask but I used a Devilbiss HVLP Finish Line spray gun with a #3 nozzle and got excellent results. I shot outdoors and used Topcoat accelerator as the temperature was just 55 degrees. Paint gloss will continue to improve for 21 days as is the complete time to cure. Don't touch it!
I sprayed five very thin coats on the topsides of my 42 foot sailboat and used less than a gallon. No matter the method of application, the paint MUST be reduced. I reduced the paint to its maximum amount to reduce the risk of runs. In retrospect I should have applied a sixth coat or not reduced the mixture as much. The paint is fantastic and the directions are very straight forward. If you do not have much experience with spary application I would roll and tip, it will come out like glass. I am going to redo the hull roll and tip method.Two more things:1. Any and ALL imperfections in the surface must be corrected or they will show up in the paint. Can't stress this enough, it WILL show up. A tiny little hairline crack will show up like the grand canyon when you are done. Surface prep is 98 percent of the job. Awlgrip filler was a joy to work with.2. Prime the surface to be painted. Do not apply the topcoat without priming first. Awlgrip primer was easy to work with also.Read and follow the instructions when you get the products and you will be amazed at the results.Good luck!
Can you roll or brush this stuff on, instead of spraying it ?
Yes you can with some great results. The process is known as "Rolling and tipping" It works best with a two person team, one person rolls the material on and the follow up person uses the tip of a brush to level off the roller stiple. Go On to Awlgrips web site and follow their instructions. Some things I have learned about this process by trial and error. All the prep work for a spray application should be followed. The material should be thinned a little bit 5-10% to aid flow out. Slower drying gives more time for material to level off. I use this process for small to medium size projects. I use small foam rollers and as fine a bristle brush as I can find. The material takes a long time to fully cure 48 hours or more before it has completed stretching and flattening out. So results get better over time.
Yes you can. In fact, there's a technique called Roll and Tip that involves applying paint by roller and "tipping it off" with a brush to eliminate roller marks. There's a lot written about this method on the web. It reputedly produces the best gloss of all the application types. It's great stuff, but no matter how you decide to apply it, spending the upfront time to prep the surface makes a huge difference. Good luck!
Yes, use the roll and tip method. Use a good sponge roller to apply paint the use the brush...at a slight angle and with very light contact on surface...to remove bubbles. I"m painting our 44' trawler and people can't tell that it was not sprayed.Tip: I found the thining by 20% and giving three coats sanding between with 320 grit yields excellent results. Take your time and you'll achieve great results.
Yes, you can brush it on. (Copied from Awlgrip website):The Awlgrip Premium Urethane Topcoat is a polyester based polyurethane coating which can be applied by spray, brush, roller or the roller/brush combination.
Yes, you can by using the roll and tip method. It isn't easy to get it perfect but after some practice you might even be able to get a better finish than if it were sprayed on. This would especially be true if the spray operator wasn't very skilled. And of course it would be much safer than spraying it on yourself without a lot of precautions taken.
when sparying urethane & paint runs what should i do to get read of them?
Let the paint dry and then sand the spot where the paint ran, use 400 grit sandpaper to start with and finish with 1000 grit. Its going to take alot of sanding to get the run out, its not easy.(THIS PAINT HARDENS LIKE A ROCK) You need to make sure you have the right thinner for your ambient temperature. if the boat is to cold the paint will run if your pressure in your gun is to high it will run. There is a lot to consider when spraying this paint or any other paint.I have to say if you do the application right then your job should come out looking brand new. This paint is the berries when done right.When you spray this paint on its like a magnet and adheres instantly to the gel coat, and the gloss is unbelievable.
If it is a small run the local auto supply house that sells auto body supplies have a small device called a "Nib cutter" like a tiny block plane. If it is any larger, DA the panel and reshoot. SorryJay
Depending on how badly the paint has ""sagged" you can possibly sand out the "sag" with say 400 W / Dri sandpaper graduating to much finer W / Dri then Compound/polish area out.sHope this helps.Cheer
It is better to not create the run in the first place. Awlgrip is a very forgiving material to brush or shoot. Here are a few suggestions you should consider:1. use only Awlgrip products to paint with awlgrip. I use their reducers, accelerators, tack cloths, griptex and anything else they reccomend. 2. Have a plan of action that removes any obstacles to a paint application. Remove hardware instead of masking it, probably needs to be rebedded anyway. Any obstacle that interferes with air flow will cause paint to be applied unevenly which is a major source of sags. With Awlgrip you are probably seeing more "Sags" than "Runs".3. If you are seeing sags on flat areas you are spraying, you need to work on your basic techniques. Purchase graduated containers (JD has them) and follow Awlgrips recommendations for mixing topcoat and convertor as well as the proper reducer and the percent of reduction. Don't guess because your paint batches will behave differently.4. Practice on sheets of cardboard held in the same attitude as the surface you are planning to shoot. There are three controls on most spray guns, air pressure, material control and spray pattern. Awlgrip makes reccomendations start there matching your gun to what is reccomended. Learn how to adjust air pressure at the gun in "free flow" Turn off the material and the pattern control. crack open the material control to get some color on the cardboard and play with the spray pattern control. When you get to an area you are painting that is near an obstacle or a feature line reduce the spray pattern and apply material to the most difficult area first in a tack coat only application move onand come back later when the tack coat has set up some a reapply another light coat. Awlgrip dries slowly so don't try to build up too much material at once. Awlgrip reccomends 35-40 minutes between a "tack" coat and a "hide" coat and it works!
NO TOUCH UP AVAILABLE
Awlgrip does not sell touch up kits and you can only save your original color a season or two (check date of manufacture). So there is no way to maintain your very expensive coating. BUYER BEWARE! Plan ahead.
Punta Gorda FL
Best used as a team of you're rolling and tipping.
I would not buy this product again
I used this product to repaint the floor in my cabin boat. I rolled this product with a roller on a 75 degree day and it covers pretty good. This was the end of May in Virginia with 75 plus degree days. Here we are 3 weeks later and it is still not completely cured. Everywhere in the boat I put a knee down on the floor to wax the rail or do some wiring, I would leave an imprint of my knee or any material I used for a knee pad. It should have set up by now.
Too bright for deck
Touch up is difficult. Local winter time temperatures make it almost impossible to use. Temperature requirement is 55 degrees for total cure time. However, cure time can be accelerated by using Awlgrip Topcoat Accelerator. The directions for Awlgrip Topcoat Accelerator are based on a ratio adding one ounce to two gallons of topcoat. I suggest changing gallons to milliliters and figuring out how many drops are required for small quantities.Please note, there are two types of Awlgrip Topcoat Accelerator.Make sure you pick the correct one.
Love this paint
I never sprayed paint before in my life. I used Awlgrip two part on my 42 foot sailboat and just love it! I know it says professional use only, so what. It's easy to understand the mixing directions and the troubleshooting chart, and it's easy to apply by spray gun. The results are jaw dropping. You don't need expensive spray guns either, just read the application guides and buy the gun with the right size nozzle or close to it. I used dirt cheap guns and a [@]compressor. Just remember one thing...preparation. The hard work is in preping the surface, don't skimp or you will regret it. Surface preparation is the most important and time consuming part of the paint job. Oh, and if you're a novice like me, you're going to make small mistakes don't worry about it! You can fix the mistakes if they are big enough or ignore them if they are small and out of the way. The shine from your new paint job will distract any onlooker from a small drip in the lower corner. Read the application guides and go to it, you will not regret it! I can't say enough about this fantastic paint. It's easy to understand their guides, straight forward to use, easy to apply, easy to fix mistakes I made, and the shine and color are just amazing. If your not sure you can do it, practice on something small that you don't care about. I wanted an Awlgrip paint job but was unwilling to pay $16,000. I painted my boat for just over $2,000. Do it. If anyone tries to talk you out of it, ignore them. Read, practice, preparation. You will love what you see!