Awlspar was formulated to recreate the highest quality classic spar varnish with state of the art ultraviolet inhibitors and absorbers. It has excellent durability, and is fast dry, fast recoat for quick build up (2-3 coats per day when temperatures are above 75* F). Applied best by brush and is a superior base for AWL-BRITE PLUS. For use above the waterline only. Use T0016 Awlspar reducer to reduce and for tool cleaning. *** FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY ***
The item was added to your wishlist.
The item was added to your shop cart.
Application Equipment Brush and roller application.
Surface Preparation Wood should be clean, dry, smooth, and well seasoned. New Wood Use marine teak cleaner or wood bleach to remove excess oils, promote color uniformity, and adhesion. Thoroughly remove all cleaner and neutralizer residue before proceeding. Rough sawn lumber must recieve heavy sanding to level the grain. Work through the grits to effectively level the grain 60/80 to 100/150 to 220 etc. When the grain is level, smooth sand the surface with 320 grit paper.
Old finishes in good condition should be washed with Awl-Prep surface cleaner, then sanded with 220-320 grit paper to remove the gloss. Old finishes in poor condition should be removed. Test on small area to ensure Awlspar does not atack the finish. If the old finish is attacked, it must be completely removed before continuing.
Mixing and Reduction
New Wood: Reduction - reduce 100% with T0016 for first coat only. This allows Alwspar to penetrate and seal the grain. Otherwise, thinning or reducing is not required. Stir only, do not shake.
After new wood has been sealed, or on previously coated surfaces, apply light smooth, even coats 2-3 mils wet of full bodied material. At temperatures above 75 F, 2 to 3 coats can be applied per day. If sanding is required, allow to cure 24 hrs before sanding. Best results are achieved when surface is sanded smooth with 320-400 grit paper after every 2 - 3 coats. A good system would include 7 - 10 coats. Exact number of coats will vary by applied film thickness and the amount of sanding. Awlspar will cure at temperatures as low as 45 F, however best results are achieved when temperatures are between 60 F and 90 F.
If possible, avoid applying or curing material in direct sunlight. Do not apply to surfaces warmer than 105 F or colder than 45 F. Do not attempt to cure in temperatures below 45 F.
Type: Phenolic Varnish, Color: Amber
Recommended Wet Film Thickness: 2-3 mils (50-75 microns) per coat.
Recommended Dry Film Thickness: 1-11/2 mils (25-37.5 microns) per coat.
Anticipated Cure Time at 77°F/50% R.H: 24 hours to handle
Recommended Coats: 7-10
Recoatability: With itself: 3-4 hours, 36 hours maximum without sanding or scuffing. With AWL-BRITE PLUS: 3 days minimum.
Theoretical Coverage: Sq. Feet/Gallon. 700 Sq. Feet at 1 mil dry (25 microns). 70-100 Sq. Feet at recommended total dry film thickness of 7-10 mils.
Coverage calculations are based on theoretical transfer efficiency of 100%.
Actual coverage rate obtained will vary according to equipment choice, application techniques, part size, and application environment.
Number Of Parts:
what product for clean up?
I don't clean brushes, as I've found the best applicator for varnish is a foam brush. After use I just throw it away. But I'm guessing that a usual paint thinner may work or go online and Google AwlSpar and read the technical instructions. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
CHURCHILL CONSULTING PARTNERS
I discard brushes after use. I tape off and then final 600 fine grit sandpaper any drips or runs from adjacent gel coat.
The best varnish I ever used. I used foam brush and did not need to clean up. Thin the first coat for best resuts.
Is there a better way to store a partial can of this varnish to eliminate the thin layer you get on top when you reopen the can ? I have tried storing in a jar in a zip lock and even one of those food storage containers where you remove the air. But still get that thin film on top. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated Other than this problem I'm really happy with this product.
It is oxygen in the can that starts the varnish to cure and leaves that layer. The only real fix is to remove the oxygen inside. What I learned from the old timers is to exhale into the can and quickly cover and seal it. This displaces the oxygen with co2 from your breath. Dosen't always work perfectly, but that's what I do.The other option is to use a little bit of dry ice which is co2, in the can let it displace the oxygen and cover it up. It's just a matter of removing the oxygen from the can.
Good luck. I do not know of any solution to the problem but here is what I do to live with it.After using the varnish clean the lip where the lid seals, thourgly. Replace the lid as tight as possible. Nezt run a piece of masking tape around the can so that most of it stands above the lid and fold the tape over the lid so that the tape makes a seal at the lid of the can. Store the can upside down (lid down). the scum will form at the bottom of the can so when you reopen the can you will have clear varnish to work with. The chemical makeup of the varnish is unchanged. Good l;uck and happy varnishing
The only thing I have ever heard of was flushing the the can with an inert gas. Not much help for most people. The old varnisher's trick was to mostly close the can, and exhale into the can. This, howeve,r does not seem to work as well with this varnish. I must say that at my shop we have not had trouble removing the skin of dried varnish, and using the rest of what was in the can.Don't know if this helps....
Thank you for your input, exhaling into to the can is one trick I have not tried. I will try that next time I open the can. I have been carefully removing the film and straining into a clean cup or whatever. It just seems you loose a small amount of varnish each time with the film. Thanks again for your response.
I have tried everything after use without success. You are on the right track as the thin layer on top is caused by exposure to air. The only way I have reduced this is by pouring what I need into a cup and closing the can up as fast as possible. The less time the can is open, the less coagulation.
I have always experienced the same issue and have tried everything I could think of, but to no avail. The only solution I have found is to carefully remove the skim and strain the remaining varnish into a fresh container before use.Ken Carpenter
I use my propane torch (unlit ) and let the gas fill the top of the can (5 - 10 Sec), then close lid quickly. Main thing is to get a good seal on the lid. Works most of the time. found this trick on the web so cant take credit.
Is this varnish better UV than Petit FLAG ? I have had NO luck with Flag drying smooth even when i put on sparingly.Always wrinkles! Captains is fine but need more UV than Captains. Someone said try Awlgrip Varnish......... what do yo say?doug
Awlspar is by far the best varnish I have ever used on a boat. I have used Captains on previous boats and found I had to recoat at least twice a year but I still considered it to be a very good product. I bought a new Kadey Krogen 48 in 2007 and as it was going through commissioning the folks at Krogen recommended the Awlspar which is what I had them use. They prepped the caprail and the other (limited) brightwork and applied 7 coats of Awlspar. They did a beautiful job and I was extremely pleased with the appearance. Their recommendation was to recoat every six months but since my boat is in a shed most of the time during the summer months I decided to try for a year. I have been doing a thorough prep once a year and applying 3 new coats for the past 5 years and it still looked new when I sold the boat a few months ago. The only yellowing has been around nicks and bangs that weren't attended to immediately. I learned that lesson and did touchup at the first opportunity. The boat spent approximately 9 months a year in the Caribbean sun and most of the summer in a shed in North Carolina.Good luck and safe boating.Ken Carpenter
I found that Awlgrip laid down flat when sprayed. I thinned it with mineral spirits. I would imagine that might be the problem with Petit FLAG, it is too thick when you are applying it. By thinning it with mineral spirits, say 20% but no more than 50%, you will lower the viscosity which will allow both of the products to lay down flatter. I applied four coats, via spray, three years ago. If offered good protection. But you really need to lay down more like 8 coats via that application method. This summer I will be sanding and applying a couple more good thick coats with a brush, that I will probably thin just a little bit (10%) if needed to get the smooth look we are talking about. Hope this helps. I have not had any wrinkling or cracking AT ALL!John B.
We normally only use awl spar varnish under Awl Brite plus. Which is a polyurethane and provides greater uv protection. We have not had any problems with wrinkles although we are applying over the same product. For just varnished projects we have been using interlude schooner varnish with food success. It flows well and does not wrinkle.
I have put 10 coats of AwlSpar M3131 on my teak. Got 450 linear feet of it. My boat isn't covered so it gets direct sunlight all of the time and this product has performed great. You will need to cut it some, I use about a cap full of acetone and stir it in. Use a cup and close up the can until you need to mix up more. It will take a couple of trys to get the consistency just right but stay at it. My last coat on the starboard side was too thin. I have also used too little acetone and it goes on too think. Once you get it, you will be happy with the performance.
Doug, "Awlspar" Varnish is highly UV protective. I cannot compare with Petit Flag as I have not tried that one. "Awlspar Varnish does go on smooth. Sorry that I cannot help you with your question. Ernie
try Penatrol rather than thinner. Dosent thin the varnish or reduce the UV protection but causes the vaenish to flow more freely greatly reducing/eliminating brush marks etc,
My cap rails are currently varnished with m3131. What other brands of varnish can be applied over this product after sanding with 220 grit paper?
Can'f imagine why you would switch brands but I believe so long as the original is sufficently drythere shoulde be no problem
AwlSpar is a traditional varnish. Any other traditional varnish and the AwlGrip AwlBrite can be applied over M3131. M3131 is my preference because it flows on the best, dries fast and has a fantastic gloss.
A professional at the marina where I keep boats on the Texas coast recommends Awl-Brite Plus, a clear urethane. It's more a more durable, harder finish that can be put on top of Awlspar varnish. I typically put 12 coats of Awlspar varnish on brightwork as the summers here can be pretty harsh.
do you sell by the gallon?
The Awl-spar is currently only offered in Quarts.
This is an excellant varnish. It has a rich amber color and a hade glossy finish. I used on the handrails of by boat as a foundation for the AwlBrite finish.
A great product with excellent results
It makes nice wood beautiful and poor quality wood look better.
Sandra Kay mvDestinees
Traveling the West coast of Forida
The only varnish I use
This product is best applied with a badger hair brush after 220 grit sanding, tack cloth wipe and acetone wipe. Coats build up quickly, are durable with excellent gloss. Best to apply first coat to bare teak with a 50/50 mix of thinner and varnish to allow product to soak into wood finish.
NEW LONDON, NH
Very good Product
We're using this on the interior of a 1924 Q Class sloop. Product brushes well and leaves a nice smooth finish.
For A traditional finish, with high build characteristics, nothing, in my opinion beats Awl Spar. To get your build coats on quickly, evenly, and with a great efficiency this is the product! I've been using it for years and will continue to use it in the future
Dave the boat guy
Awl Spar M3131
M3131 is what I use. I have become an expert at application. Steps to success;Sand surface using 220 grit or higher depending on condition of existing varnish. 1- tape varnish area well. OK to use regular blue tape.2- Pour 2-3" of varnish into a hard plastic cup. Thin cups desintigrate. 3- Mix a cap full of acetone to cut thickness.4- use foam brush to apply.5- Make long unpressured strokes to avoid globbing6- allow to dry well before applying next coat.7- Apply 6-8 coats and do not apply durin g extremely humid periods8- OK to leave tape on for a long period. When ready to remove tape, spray tape with garden hose and it will be easy to remove.
It was a pleasure to use, went on well and recoatable. High gloss... nice
Nice stuff but it is thin
Very nice but beware that it is considerably thinner than their High Solids version. You actually need a softer brush than the Epifanes brushes which are made to "work" a heavier varnish. It is more of a "gliding" varnish that yields a smooth thin coat. We also sprayed this and it was great. Conversely, the High Solids was a bit heavy to spray and left slight orange peel.
Dry Pond Boat Works
AWL GRIP Varnish
I have used several varnishes over the years. I was a Z Spar Captains fan forever. Petit bought them and the product suffered.I found this product and it is a pure delight to use. Great leveling qualities and easy to use.The gloss os awesome.I don't think you will be sorry Give it a try.