Quart sizes of Awlgrip urethane topcoat base paint.
Awlgrip urethane paints yield durable high gloss finishes to wood, fiberglass, aluminum, or steel, and may be applied with a paint roller, brush or spray gun.
Awlgrip finishes are renowned for their superior resistance to sun, saltwater, chemicals, and abrasion, and are ideal for coating everything from boat topsides, cabin tops, decks and masts, to engines.
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*** For Professional Use Only ***
Awlgrip system yields fantastic results when properly applied, but due to its complex application procedure, Awlgrip should only be applied by a professional. Simpler two-part topside paints are available for the non-professional.
To make your selection easier, click here to order a FREE color card containing 120 swatches.
Long lasting; high gloss
Superior resistance to sun, saltwater, chemicals and abrasion
Appropriate for use on fiberglass, steel and wood
Above the waterline use only
Available in quarts and gallons
Custom colors available
Number Of Parts:
I am trying to match Awlgrip mid blue - what is the current description and product number ?
I don't see a mid blue but there is a midnight blue # AWL-H5346
JD Tech Team
I am re-painting my boom with Awl grip. It was awl grip. do I still need to prime?
If you break through to bare material (aluminum or wood) u need to spot prime. If not then just scuff and paint.
When I did my mast last year, I spot-primed the bare aluminum spots with thetwo-part awlgrip primer for brush application, then two coats of the awlgrip top coat, following the directions I found on the awlgrip web site, andall went very well.Mark
So long as the previous paint is in good condition, and you can not see bare metal, you will probably be fine. If you can see any metal or flaking paint, it is strongly recommended to prime as directed. You can also contact AwlGrip for more specific questions.
JD Tech Associate
Can this be used on a polyurethane resin?
Nancy the Newbie
It can be used on Epoxy and Polyester Resin, you will need to prime first with Awlgrip 545 primer.
JD Tech Team
I need to redo a deck that has been painted at least once with Awlgrip Castle Tan. I am experiencing gel coat crazing that will need to be repaired first. Do you recommend Awlgrip or could I get by with two part Epifanes? Which would be better?
The Epifanes Two Part Polyurethane is an excellent lower cost alternative to Awlgrip. We can mix that in the castle tan color.
JD Tech Team
polyester urethane what reducer what hardner for spraying
For each quart of base, you need a quart of AWL-G3010 Awlcat 2 spray converter and a quart of AWL-T0003 Medium Spray Reducer
JD Tech Team
The spray converter is AWL-G3010 the spray reducer is AWL-T0003
JD Tech Team
What is mixing ration for awlgrip 8-8
With the spray converter it is 1 to 1 with the brushing converter it is 2 to 1
JD Tech Team
can this go over paint that is unidentified?Can colors be used to mix and match? or are custom colors available?We need to repaint a bronze sculpture that has about four different colors. The current paint is not the original, but appears to be a quality industrial paint that is just aging and wearing. It doesn't seem to peeling or flaking.ThanksCB
Awlgrip is a two part Polyester paint. It cannot be applied over a single part paint. You will need to determine if the old paint is single or two part paint. Test One: Cross Hatch Adhesion (See diagram right.)Select a test area or areas on the surface to be painted. Thoroughly clean, de-wax, and degrease this area.With a single-edge razor blade, scribe a 2" x 2" test area in a 1/4" checkerboard pattern. The cuts must be deep enough to reach the substrate. On a thick fairing system this test may have to be done to several different layers.Apply 3M #610, #895 or #898 3M Scotch Brand Filament Tape (or similar type of packaging tape) over the scribed area, making certain that the tape is tightly adhered to the test surface. Do not use masking tape.With an abrupt yank, pull the tape back parallel to the surface. To pull the tape straight up will give no test at all.Examine the test surface. If any square of old coating in the scribed area is removed, the adhesion has failed. All the failed layers must be removed.Test Two: Solvent ResistanceSaturate a cotton ball or small wad of cloth with one of the Awlgrip Topcoat or Primer Reducers. (T0006 or T0003).Tape the reducer saturated ball to the scribed area surface for 30 minutes.After 30 minutes, remove the cotton ball. If the reducer has dissolved or severely softened the old coating, the coating is incompatible and must be removed. If the scribed area has remained intact, allow a 15 minute recovery period and repeat all steps in Test 1 again.If any square areas are removed, all the failed layers must be removed.Test Three: Coating CompatibilityIf the old coating is still intact after Tests 1 and 2, perform Test 3.Lightly sand a small test area with 220 grit paper. Clean the sanded areas thoroughly with Awl-Prep and clean cloths.Paint a small patch of the surface with Awlgrip Topcoat. Do not use masking tape on the edges of the test application as the paint edges created by the tape will "print through" and be visible in the finish.Allow the coated area to cure for 24 hours, at temperatures above 77Â°F.After the area has been allowed to cure, check for intercoat adhesion with Test 1 Cross Hatch Adhesion Test.If there is no lifting, wrinkling, or loss of adhesion caused by this cross hatch test, the Awlgrip Coating Systems are compatible and surface preparation can begin.If this test fails, all coatings must be removed down to a sound, well adhered, compatible coating or to the original substrate.Back to top of page
how many sq ft does a gallon cover ?
Depends on spraying or brush and color
Awlgrip itself would be a better source of such info. I haven't used it but once, patching up. Sorry.
does this require an activator?
Yes. It requires an MEKP type activator.
Yes. Activator required. Reducer also depending on application. IE ; roll & tipping.
YesThere are two activators ,one for spray and another for brush
How did you apply it - wondering how you went about "rolling and tipping" it if that worked out for you. ? thanks, 'Bob
I was just touching up dings on the topside with the Awlgrip. I brushed it on with a good bristle brush, and faired it in brushing back towards the fresh paint around the edges, working quickly while the paint was still wet. It was fine.
I used the roller converter and had to watch the weather, especially the temperature. You have to make sure you're tipping it straight up-and-down; not side-to-side. Side-by-side causes sags. Use very fine, 1/8 inch nap rollers. I used foam brushes. You'll need a lot of them and make sure you get the kind that are more resistant to the polyurethane product You have to make sure you tip it while it's still wet but not too wet. If you tip it and it's too dry you won't get the shine. That's where watching the temperature and adding reducer to it to match the weather becomes a real science. You have to experiment a little bit and you'll get the hang of it. If done properly you can hardly tell that it is not sprayed. Most people think my hull was sprayed or is actually gelcoat. Once done, there's no need to wax every year. In fact, the paint is so hard that you can't rub it out like you would a normal two-part Epoxy. If you try and rub out a SAG you'll ruin the shine. Just sand it off and start over. Good luck, it's a spectacular product if applied properly.
I wouldn't buy this paint again.
I rolled on the paint and the next day started to sand it, but the dust from sanding glued itself to the paper and then back on to the hull. Which I then had to pull off. It never really seemed to properly set up. And so I painted it again without sanding. Then a week later when we launched her, the slings adhered to the paint and the paint was damaged. It just never set up right. Which was a bummer. And expensive.
it was a process
Great application and Quality
By no means do I know how to spray paint. I got a free sprayer with by compressor and had never used it. Mix this product exactly as the can indicates, practice on a flat board, dial-in your spray gun to "your" pace and you will really enjoy the process and finish.
Stillwater New Jersey
Take your time between coats.
Take your time. Paint runs easy.
Goodbye shining brass and bronze
Sand with #220 and apply
Ed the cockpit potato
New York City
Awl Grip cloud white
This is good stuff, easy to use, good coverage
Gulf Shores, AL
The best in durability
Last time I repainted topsides was in 1991 and they still were decent.
Awlgrip Clear over Awlbrite.
We have found that using a last coat or two of clear Awldrip over Awlbrite provides better abraision resistance to the finish. We typically use 2 coats pentrating epoxy CPES on bare wood until setup and solvents have evaporated but still green then 5050 with west 105/207 then one coat 105/207 or system 3 ,sand smooth, 3 coats Awlbrite 24 hoursor less apart, sand smooth, 3 more coats Awlbrite 24 hours or less apart, sand smooth , then 2 coats Awlgrip clear that now has stood up to 3 years of use on a boat we see regularly and 5 according to the owner of a boat we did in 2007. This system requires that NO moisture get in behind your coatings. We have used it on Mahogany and properly deoiled Teak . I believe that the epoxies expand and contract with the wood somewhat sparing the harder suface coats from failure due to expansion and contraction. UV will get at this stuff and this year another coat of Awlbrite then one of Awgrip will go on the job from 2007 assuming that the substrate is stable. Ill keep readers posted when we order again
Do not use Awlgrip Air Ag Yellow
Regarding your ad for AwlGrip paint, which says "Awlgrip finishes are renowned for their superior resistance to sun, saltwater, chemicals," I can tell you that one color of AwlGrip, at least is the absolute worst paint for chemical resistance. A paint shop used AwlGrip Air Ag Yellow on my airplane, and I have used it also, in touch up work. That particular color is EXTREMELY sensitive to the acid wash used to clean corrosion from aluminum; a necessary preparatory step. The slightest spill or drip of the phosphoric acid cleaner will eventually show up as a dark stain on the Air Ag Yellow, and cannot be removed except by rubbing through the layer of stain with rubbing compound. NO OTHER paint of any color that I have used has had this problem. Parts of the airplane are painted in Matterhorn White Alumigrip, and it does not stain, nor does yellow, white, or black Imron. Worse yet, Akzo Nobel is extremely unresponsive and very defensive about complaints, and not at all helpful. They just blew me off when I asked them about the issue.
There is no better paint
I used the brushing reducer with great results. Should have used primer because gelcoat was so oxidized it took many coats to get deep color (red)