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Epifanes two-part polyester saturated, aliphatic urethane coatings are formulated for maximum resin depth and hardness with a long lasting mirror like gloss. Epifanes polyurethane is designed for brush, roller, or spray application. Each package includes base & reactor. Thinning with Polyurethane Thinner For Brush or Polyurethane Thinner For Spray is required for application. Designed for any boat or home applications above the waterline.
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: 750 gr. (500 gr. base + 250 gr. reactor = 750 gr. mixed) 2:1 mix by weight.
Gloss: Ultra high gloss
Density: 1.00 - 1.40 kg./liter (mixed product) (depending on color)
Drying times at 65F / 65% RH: Tack free - 3 hours / Tape free - 7 hours, Hard Dry - 8 hours / Recoatable - 24 hours
Recommended Film Thickness: Per coat wet - 80 micron / Per coat dry -40-45 microns.
Application: Brush - Thin 0-10 percent with Epifanes Polyurethane Brush Thinner
Spray - Thin up to 0-10 percent with Epifanes Polyurethane Spray Thinner
Temperature should be between 50 degrees F and 85 degrees F during application with the air humidity level below 85 percent. Avoid painting in too much wind or sun. A rapid loss of solvents will occur under these conditions and will decrease the flowing ability.
Number Of Parts:
What is the pot life on a batch of mixed 2-part paint? If it needs a second coat the next day, can I use that previous day's mix, or do I need to buy more paint?
The pot life isn't that long, you could try refrigerating it but it may be thick.
Can this 2 part finish be applied over an existing traditional varnish finish?
According to Epifanes "Suited as a indoor and outdoor varnish system on its own on non-working (ply-)wood , as U.V.-resistant and protective finishing coat on epoxy resin or as an intermediate -adhesion- coat on wood treated with epoxy resin prior to the application of a one-component varnish."So short answer is no.Michael Lauer
I have never done so, but I would think you can, provided the existingvarnish is sanded down to only a thin layer over the wood. At that point, Ithink any negative reaction would be minimized to a negligible status.The value of this two part varnish to me is its resistance to the Floridasun. So, even if it turned out I had to sand to bare wood, I would do so.But I would also try it on a small area before undertaking a full sandingjob.If you can, let me know what you decide and how it turns out.Rick Spinner7402 Palmer Glen Circle, Sarasota, Florida 34240 - text and tel:
No. 2-component products generally destroy 1-component products, or will suffer from the lower adhesion of the 1-component product.
JD Tech Associate
I was considering using the 2-part polyurethane for a wood plank bathroom floor. Would I prime it first and ifso, with what? Thanks for any advice.
Best if primed with Epifanes Epoxy Primer.
JD Tech Team
If the entire contents is not used the first time, what is the mixing ratio?
The mix ratio is 2 parts base 1 part converter.
1. Can Epifanes two part polyurathene be used on carbon fiber? I need to re-varnish my tiller. 2. How resilient is it to UV? The current (manufacturer's original) began to flake off after two seasons.Many thanks Martyn Kebbell
Hi Harris, Many thanks for the guidance, I will do just that.Best wishes
I'm currently experiencing about 5 years life in full sun on a wooden deck with the Epifanes applied over epoxy. In less than full sun it's longer but I can't say how much because I haven't had a finish fail ther as yet.I've not tried it on carbon fiber so can't say with confidence on that part of your question.
contact epiphanies usthey are very helpful
Hi Michael, Many thanks. It is reassuring to get first hand experience by a user. Much appreciated Best wishes
Does high temp affect open time? Should I thin the paint more? How will I know when thinned enough?
I live and work in SW Florida, this time of year it is 90+ degrees during mid-day. I try to be done by noon or so to avoid the worst of the heat and sun. As such, I add thinner until the mixture drips off the brush, not runs. This seems to allow sufficient flow time before setting. One nice thing I have also discovered is that once a coat is down it is relatively immune to any following afternoon rains!The thinner works very, I usually buy 500 ml when i buy 1000 ml of urethane and I always have left overs.Good luck
I have used this product with a HVLP spray system. Pot life is 3+ hours (around this per directions) but I haven't has it sit in the pot for more than 2 hours because I'm done with my largest batch by then (more than 1 kit but less than 2 kits in my largest batch). I have sprayed between 50 and 100 degree weather (in shade outside with low wind). I have not noticed any difference in pot life within my timeframe).I thin to my sprayer spec. As I recall that comes to roughly 10% by volume but I use a fairly small needle. I've noticed the surface doesn't quite settle to mirror smooth if sprayed with too little thinner.By the way, just before spraying the next coat (after 24 hours) I do a quick wipe with brush thinner. This gives the prior coat a nice tack and removes any dust settled on the surface.I haven't applied by brush so cannot advise on my experience.
Is there a flatting agent to bring it to a semigloss for decks?
contact epiphanes they are very helpful
I don't know. I use it in gloss on my deck (over West 207 epoxy base).
There is a separate semi-gloss product with the flattening agent premixed. I was told to do the first x coats in gloss (I think I did 5 or 6) and the final coat in semi-gloss. If I was to do it again, I would do two coats of semi-gloss with different lap zones. I missed a couple spots and they stuck out like sore thumbs. I tried to touch up but now there are lap marks and the touch-up semi-gloss sheen is different than the final coat. There are a few gloss stripes at the lap zones between boards that are too narrow to touch up. Overall the project (interior wood floors) looks good, but the touch-ups bug me.
I've not actually tried this so O would recommend trying it on some spare part first. Interlux makes a flattening agent for their two part polyurethanes, part # YZM914KIT/QT (west marine # 6862270).I have used it on the decks of my Blackfin with great success. Hope that helps.
Can anyone tell me what the coverage is for the 750gr? I am primarily interested in the clear, but if you know for a color, please state the color used. Thanks!
A single coat for about 100 square feet. I spray the clear.
Three Questions (maybe more) 1. Is the 2 Prt Urethane good to protect epoxy? 2. Would the regular Epifanes Clear Gloss Varnish be better? 3. What is the best clear to provide UV protection for epoxy?
I use the 2-part urethane to protect epoxy. I've had very good results using this over West Systems epoxy using the Special Clear Hardner on cedar decking.I've had poor results when I didn't apply to all 6 sides. Any break in an edge will cause the underlying wood to deteriorate and the epoxy and urethane top coat will lift. This is the case regardless of which top coat you use. Also remember to let the epoxy cure fully (a week or two depending on temperatures), sand, and then wash the epoxy to remove any surface wax (from curing) before applying any varnish.My opinion is that the 2 part Urethane is tougher than regular varnishes. My recollection is that I get 3-4 years life from varnish applied over epoxy and 5-7 years life from the 2-part urethane over epoxy (in the same location). The 2-part urethanes are more expensive so the savings is in labor by having reduced maintenance frequency. Also, I have yet to have the 2-part urethane break down in areas where the sun isn't strong though I have had varnishes break down.As to what is the best clear... I don't know if you're talking brand??? I've used Epiphanes and I've used Interlux Perfection. Similar results though I believe Interlux has changed its formula since the last time I've used it.
Finewoodworking . com performed a test in four US states using several varnishes and Epifanes came out on top.This article, that my neighbor provided me, convinced me that the UV protection of the Epifanes varnish is superior. I use it exclusively. If you follow their thinning instructions, you won't be disappointed. David
Hi ~ I am wondering about the ease of application of this two part PAINT (not varnish) for roll and tip method by an amateur on her plywood glass epoxy boat.Thanks for taking the time to answer my question. ?Kyle in Nevada
I used this product on the transom of a 30 foot fiberglass sailboat. The area was not large (maybe about 20 square feet). I used a 4" foam roller to apply the urethane and tipped with a brush. The results were better than I expected but I did have a couple of areas where there was some orange peel. I was able to correct this after the paint was dry by sanding with 600 grit wet sand paper wrapped around a wood block. Hope this helps. Bob in Tennessee.
Like any two part product once it is mixed you must use it. But other than that is goes on easy and looks great.
This product is tricky to apply on verticale surfaces becasue it is thick and it sags. Horizontal surfaces are not a problem. It flows out and creates a clear high gloss finsih. I used it on a cedar mailbox post and a redwood light post. The finish still looks like new several years later. I solved the sagging problem by rotating the 4 sided pieces being finished until the finish set and I applied it as thin as possible. I also soaked the wood with CPES before applying the finish.If you do end up with sags,get out the sand paper and apply another thin coat. Great product that I would use again.
I'm an amateur, too, but my application is different -- painting a flat, horizontal span of MDF, so I can't speak to how well it stays put on vertical surfaces while wet. I can say that it is easy to mix, not too stinky, wets out pretty smooth and shiny on its own, and after curing is the most incredibly tough paint I have ever seen or could ever imagine -- impressive. FWIW, it can not be sprayed without breathing apparatus due to toxicity of the mist, but is safe when applied as you have decided to do. Wear gloves, though -- it's probably not the best stuff to get on your hands, but even if you don't care about that, it's not the easiest to clean off them, either, heh.
I've only used the varnish. For varnish, I spray (HVLP) for a smooth finish with no brush marks.
Great product, needs better application information
I needed to repaint a 52 year old Ensign, which had been awlgripped about 20 years ago. I used Interlux Perfection on the mast and boom last year, and found that it was very sensitive to temperature and humidity. I was convinced to try Epifanes for the topsides. I used a quart of their primer in gray, which did a nice job filling in some imperfections. I say quart, but when you combine the two parts, the total is more like 5/6th. At any rate, three finish coats later, the job looks great. My single complaint was the lack of advice available on the can or their website. I used the roll and tip method, and was advised to use their special brushing thinner - but no where did it specify HOW MUCH thinner to add, which is a key piece of information you need for a successful job. A few calls to Epifanes in Maine, and I found someone who seemed knowledgeable. He gave me the secret number I will now reveal here: add 7% thinner by volume of the paint in your carefully measured paint bucket. With that, the product was a dream to use, and we got many favorable comments in the boatyard prior to launching. Hope it holds up for the long term...
old guy fixer-upper
Great product have used it several times
Although I like this paint not sure what happened this time. I ordered gloss or some gloss but the entire job came out flat. Not sure if it was me or the paint. I did a cabin top non skid on a sailboat so not bad flat two coats not sure if I won't to paint it again too much paint and hard to cut it in with the now flat edg.Greg
I would buy again but know you are not getting a quart
Estimating Coverage was not easy as the combined productdoes NOT equal one quart. Had to order additional paint at additional cost. Do not attempt to apply at temperature in the 80's.
We used the white 2 part polyurethane for the deck, cockpit, and cabin of our 25' sailboat We did a complete balsa core and fiberglass replacement on the cabin top, cockpit sole, and deck. After fairing we laid down System Three water based epoxy primer and sanded and cleaned it well. We sprayed the Epifanes using a pressure pot paint gun with a 1.2mm nozzle. Temperature was around 80 degrees. After practicing and tweaking the gun on some pieces of cardboard and plastic sheeting we ended up with the pot set at 10 psi, and the gun set at 30-35psi read on a gauge mounted right at the spray gun. Paint was thinned 10% with Epifanes spray thinner. We laid down a light tack coat and let it flash off for 20 minutes, then laid down a medium coverage coat. Had a few runs in the cockpit but that was my fault. Avoid trying to lay down heavy coats as it will run and sag if you do that. Note that the coverage rates on the can are true per coat so measure your square footage well. It doesn't take long to blow through the 750ml kit. The Epifanes paint sprayed down beautifully and quickly leveled out and merged into a smooth flat finish. It dried quickly and very hard. It has a nice shine, and with all climbing all over the boat with tools when reinstalling hardware it didn't scratch up, but still looked great. Very happy with the results so far.
Great shine and easy to use
A friend saw the job and bought some to do a project of his own
Best 2 part we have ever used
I have used many other 2 parts in boat painting projects - my wife found a color that matched our hull perfectly with Epihane 2 part paints for painting our decks - but she wanted it not overly shiny - they actually made it with a little flatness and we ordered it ..I will tell you it went on perfectly dried perfect and went on like butter ..we have switched over to this paint for all our next boat projects - thank you ..
Difficult to Roll/Tip
I've so far bought two quarts of this to cover about a 8 sq ft topside area on the cabin of my Whaler. I have never rolled/tipped but have painted with both a roller and painted hundreds of cars in my career. I first don't understand why I can't use a good PPG or Sikkens urethane basecoat/clearcoat on my boat like you would for the car. No one has ever explained that to me. I first used the rolling/tipping method after priming with the Epiphanes primer. I bought a badger hair brush (as recommended), sanded the primer down perfectly, taped everything, used the good cleaner that was recommended. I soaked my brush in the good thinner to clean it as recommended. I immediately started getting bubbles and bumps all over the place with this product when I began to Roll/Tip. I could not get it right. I sanded the paint down several times, wasting product which each use....this stuff aint cheap. After the first quart was gone I decided I'd go back to the old faithful method I'm used to, spraying it on. It's going to be a little messy with overspray but it can't be worse than what the roll/tip looked like....I was wrong! It looked even worse with the gun. I probably could have bought two spray cans of Kilz and done a better job. I have not asked Jamestown for a refund because they are the nicest people out there but I would like a refund from Epiphanes.
HTOWN THE UNHAPPY
Too Expensive for what you get
This 2-part poly has bumps on it when brushing regardless of how you apply it. I used Epifanes "Brush Thinner" and Red Tree Badger Hair Brush. I tried it with and without thinner. Tried 5% thinner, 20% thinner, it made absolutely no difference. Bumps on finished product. Used clean room paint booth to apply. 72Â° F. 30% Rh.
epifanes two part polyurethane
I like epifanes two part polyurethane better than perfection plus a bit easier to varnish. It contains less than perfection pkys but covers the same. It turns out awesome and will buy again.
Great Falls, VA
Excellent, requires careful application
I've used this on boat and residential interior woodwork and soles. Assuming you put the work and time into application, the finish is perfect: even, hard, and durable, better in most cases than the original boat manufacturer's interior finishes. The cons are these: initial coats especially must be very thin (lots of thinner) else some horrible gassy reaction seems to occur with the underlying wood surface; cleanup involves epifanes' expensive proprietary thinners. And because this stuff is so expensive, you need very good discipline about quantities; how you mix, etc. I spent a couple of weeks experimenting with sample pieces before using this product live.If you're not willing to take lots of time to do the job right, or to be obsessively clean, and to measure and time your work obsessively, don't bother with this finish, because you won't get good-looking results. But if you really care about the results, and you're willing to put in the effort, it's the best.