The Norcold Ice Box Conversion Unit converts an insulated ice box (up to 6 cubic ft.) into an automatic electric refrigerator. Unit uses a single compressor and evaporator for high efficiency and low operating cost.
Pre-charged copper tubing is included and allows for convenient placement of compressor/power supply away from evaporator plate. Unit also features a power ventilation package to prevent compressor from overheating.
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Refrigerators and Freezers
Is it essential to mount the thermostat in the ice box to properly control temperature? A prior version we had used had the thermostat mounted on a wall outside the box. Also, how does one disconnect the thermostat wire from the compressor to run channel it into the ice box. The wire port is right against the compressor mounting brackets and it is tight under there.
my thermostat is mounted outside the box because the wires are not long enough to reach. they are shorter then the 12 ft (?) tubing. makes no sense. unit must be turned off manually for me. I keep a jug of frozen lemon water in my ice box. this works as a poor mans hold over cold plate system. as the ice thaws i drink it. my unit is in a vw camper with poor insulation so it needs to run most of the time anyway. not sure about your disconect question...good luck
I installed this about three years ago (and it's been working very well since), but here's what I recall: The switch needs to be inside the box, as it senses the temperature as well as regulates it. Mine is mounted in the back, near the top, where it's easy to get to and no blocked by food. I set it a bit warmer to keep the items in the bottom of the box from freezing. I have a remote digital thermometer mounted above the galley that let's me keep track of the temp, which I keep right about 40 degrees in the middle of the box (which is warm enough to keep frost from forming on the cold plate). The wire from the thermostat/switch has a plug on it, so you don't need a huge hole to connect it up.
We had exactly the same problemThe connection to the thermostat control is right under the chassis and hard to get at, there is no middle connection plug/sock as there is for the cold plate thermistorWithout pulling out the circuit board in the controller its a problemWe just mounted the thermostat externally as time was short . Seems to work at the 'just-on' position but I intend examining the controller board when we next get to our boat.The easy answer is to cut and splice
The thermostat wire disconnects easily from the compressor with a simple plug connection. The wire can then be run through the same hole as copper tube. The thermostat control needs to be located in the ice box as there is no other sensor to monitor the temperature. Hope this helps
how many amps does this unit draw for 12v?
about 4a running, the air temp is all important controlling how long it runs. At 70* it will run maybe 5 minutes a shot 3-4 times an hour. At 90* it will run 30 minutes an hour. It's an air cooled compressor so the air temp delta is what it is.Dropping a 5lb bag of ice in the box makes a huge difference in controlling run time during the summer. Honestly if the temp is much above 90 we turn it off during the day and use the ice. Then flip it on after sunset.It just chews up the battery.All in all the unit is pretty nice as long as you manage it at extreme temps.
I measured the amperage and found it was as specified about 1.5 amps. I insulated the box and cut the size from 4 cubic feet to 2 cubic. The unit runs about 8 minutes and rests for 16 minutes. This amounts to 3 cycles per hour or about 10 hours per day. So it uses about 15 amp hours per day. The box stays a constant 38 degrees. If a bag of ice is added you will have ice for 1-2 weeks.
It draws very little amps for 12V. I am very happy with the purchase.
2.5 amps. Works great
I wish I knew. I do not have any way to measure the draw. I think the literature said 3 amps. I have found it to be a low draw but i can not say exactly. i am satisfied with this product.For whatever its worth I used this conversion in the icebox of my 1972 VW Westfalia and it has worked.
It draws about 3 amps when running.
How to install the Norcold Ice Box Conversion Unit?
Instructions should have been supplied with the unit.
It's not as easy as it should be. You have two major components: the evaporator (the white thing in the picture), which is screwed to the inside of the boat's cooler, and the compressor/condenser (the black thing in the picture), that is mounted elsewhere. You then connect two copper tubes from the evaporator to the compressor, mount the thermostat inside the cooler, and then run wires from the evaporator and the thermostat to the remotely-mounted compressor. It's a good idea, before you do anything, to increase the insulation in the cooler, as it's usually woefully inadequate.The fly in the installation ointment is due to the short electrical cables that are supplied. The copper tubing is twelve feet long. The electrical wire from the evaporator to the compressor is about four feet shorter than the copper tubing. The thermostat cable is about eight feet shorter than the tubing. If you're willing to add about twenty percent to the purchase price, you can special order an extension cable that lengthens the thermostat's wiring to eight feet.Once these connections are made, you then make the power (12VDC and 110VAC) connections.All-in-all, not difficult, EXCEPT the wiring limitations are not spelled out in the instructions (which are woefully inadequate). I set my compressor/condenser unit up in a lazarette, basing the distance limit on the copper tubing. I later found out that there was no way to extend the wiring (without making something up yourself and possibly voiding the warranty) to cover the ten foot distance.If you're able to mount all components within about eight feet or less of each other, and don't mind spending a goodly chunk of change for a six-conductor thermostat extension, you should be okay.Oh, and you have to unplug the thermostat's wiring from the compressor/condenser to attach the pricey extension cable. The lock on the connector faces the wrong way and is nearly inaccessible.A potentially good unit ruined by shoddy details.John
Sorry. Have not received it yet.
lasted just 2 years
used to convert icebox on sailboat. ok for 2 seasons only. too bad because a somewhat different product is twice the cost but early failure makes it not feasible to replace with same unit.
The wiring for the thermostat should be as long as the plumbing. After install had to use some creative skills to stretch the wiring and reroute it.
My last conversion kit lasted 30 years
easy installationquiet runningtakes up very little space
I feel this is a good product
I replaced a no longer functioning unit with this one and the installation was very easy. I agree with the other review that the Thermostat control cable is too short to reach inside the box. I mounted it on the lazerette wall and once it was set I have not touched it again. My box will keep ice frozen in a container next to the evaporator and the rest of the box at 35 degrees. I live in the south where temperatures reach 100 degrees, and this unit works very well. I no longer bring an ice chest for drinks, I just leave some in there for my next visit and restock when I get there. Yhis is the only review I have ever written but felt I needed to based on the other review here. For the price you can't beat this product.
Hot Springs Arkansas
Too short cables ruined it for me
I submitted a lengthy review a week or so ago, but it's not appeared. My complaint is that, as shipped, the components must be installed less than four feet from each other, despite the fact that the copper tubing allows you to install the major components up to twelve feet apart. By paying another twenty percent, you can get an extension cable (special ordered) that will extend the range to about eight feet. This did not help in my situation.