TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy is a low-viscosity wood rot restoration and repair solution that seals deeper & cures stronger than industry-leading penetrating epoxies. It has no VOCs, no odor & is 100% waterproof once cured.
This 2:1 system is ideal for restoring rotten or damaged wood, or sealing new wood for lasting protection against humidity, salt, mold & mildew. It works by gluing cellulose (wood) fibers back together, sealing a bare, porous wood surface from the inside out. Double the penetrating power by mixing acetone with the epoxy resin solution in equal volume. Easy to apply by brush, roller, or inject via syringe. Surfaces may be painted or varnished after light sanding.
Choose from Traditional (65-90 F) or Cold Weather (40-65 F) formulas in Pint, Quart, 1/2 Gallon & Gallon kits. Bonus: Kit includes 2 stir sticks, 2 paint pots & 1 pr. latex gloves.
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NO VOCS, NO SMELL.
Cleanup is easy. Wear latex gloves, wash off with soap and water. No solvents required.
APPLICATION NOTE: The wood must be bare and unfinished. Also, TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy will not penetrate and level well when applied over some stains. Always test an area first. DO NOT USE on top of Minwax oil-based stains.
TotalBoat Cold Weather Penetrating Epoxy is perfect for use during the colder seasons. Compared to our traditional TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy, our Cold Weather formula offers similar performance characteristics, but cures completely and reliably in cooler temperatures. Its tack-free properties also allow you to sand sooner.
WARNING: TotalBoat Cold Weather Penetrating Epoxy should not be used as a fast-cure epoxy in warmer temperature conditions because doing so can be unsafe and result in premature exotherm, brittleness, and improper curing.
Application Temperature Ranges:
Traditional formula - 65-90°F
Cold Weather formula - 40-65°F
Sealing open wood pores
Glues wood fibers back together
Fungi & mildew protection
Rotten wood restoration
Traditional Formula and Cold Weather Formula Kit Volumes: Total Mix Ratio
Pint Kit: total mix ratio 1.5 Pints (1 pint resin, 1/2 pint hardener)
Quart Kit: total mix ratio 1.5 Quarts (1 quart resin, 1 pint hardener)
Half-Gallon Kit: total mix ratio .75 Gallons (1 half gallon resin, 1 quart hardener)
Gallon Kit: total mix ratio 1.5 Gallons (1 gallon resin, 1/2 gallon hardener)
32' 1950 boat, hull sanded to wood, shop is worried about using Total Boat Pen. they state their worried about sealing the moisture that's in the wood haul in, and causing root, the wood would not be able to breath. Is this an issue, can I use Total Boat Pen Epoxy ?
Yes, it is an issue if you epoxy the outside of the hull. If the wood needs to swell to seal the seams the epoxy will not allow that on a planked hull. If it's sealed on the outside and not sealed on the inside then it will wet out on the inside and promote rot unless sealed on both sides. The wood needs to be dry to do that.
JD Tech Team
I am replacing the deck on my boat and wondering if this product is compatible with at carpet adhesive. I am replacing the carpet on the deck and looking for a good sealant/waterproofing. I am using marine grade plywood for the decking.
Penetrating epoxy of all types creates a slippery shine finish. A lightsanding might work to get other adhesives to stick but I doubt one wouldstick without sanding.
Can I apply a stain after applying Totalboat? I am wanting to seal my DIY wood floor then stain it and apply a semi gloss finish.
Yes, I have also applied stain following penetrating epoxy. I use anoil-base stain, but get far less coloration than if I had stained first.Another approach - I add pigment to the polyurethane, (normally burntumber) slightly altering the finished color of the finished wood withsuccessive coats. If the wood is in good condition, I'l often dilutepolyurethane with mineral spirits to increase penetration instead of thepenetrating epoxy. Doing a whole floor with epoxy is expensive, but it surehardens the wood!- RAC
My experience is that stain needs to go over bare wood so the stain canpenetrate the grain. After that you can apply the sealer. Check withthe stains instructions to be sure.
Is this product an alternative to Smith's CPES? After staining mahogany, can Total Penetrating Epoxy be applied before varnish?
Yes as far as I can tell, it is the same as CPES. Yes after staining. Besure stain is completely dry and although the TB is called "penetrating" itneeds to be reduced w/ denatured alcohol or acetone by up to 50 percent topenetrate effectively especially on hardwoods. Do a number of tests onscrap to determine the reduction.
Yes, this is our Smith's replacement with no VOC's not quite as thin and is recommended to be applied as a sealer for varnish.
JD Tech Team
I have used both. Smith's product has a higher solvent content so isthinner and likely penetrates the wood deeper. TotalBoat still a goodproduct though. I have stained tigerwood with an oil based Minwax productprior to applying sealer and then varnished. Just make sure the stain iscompletely dry (24-48 hrs) and wipe it down completely before apply thesealer. A light sanding of any sealed surface or rub down with scotch clothbetter before applying varnish.
I am restoring an old plywood dory and have removed a lot of the old paint the boat was checking (cracks) in the outside layer of plywood on the hull. I was wondering if I used this product over the hull would it seal the checked wood so paint could be applied over it. I see some people use it after staining to seal the wood. What is your opinion? If it will work do I thin with Acetone or not ?
I think the penetrating epoxy would work well to do what you describe. If the cracks are significant, a thicker mixture of epoxy could be used after the initial penetrating application to fill before painting.
I have used this product to seal a plywood interior cabin roof aftersanding and prior to painting it has held up well that was about threeyears agoA word of caution do not mix more than you can apply in about ten minutesit will set up in the can also once applied it takes a long time to dryremains tacky for 24 to 36 hours. I have not used acetone with theproduct
It will seal the wood and you can thin with acetone. As far as checkin I'm not sure it will completely solve the problem.Â Â I had similar issues with my Chris craft.Â I used the penatraitinig epoxy then used Devoe Bar Rust 235, which Jamestown does not offer. It is a barrier coat 2 part primer.Â I did this and achieved a showroom finish.
Sorry I have not used mine yet.??? BTW stain does not seal the wood.??? If Iwanted to change color I would add dye to the epoxy, make sure the dyeis compatible with the epoxy.
I have roller applied another brand of epoxy to coat marine plywood parts when building a skiff before assembly. It required extensive sanding to obtain a reasonably smooth, non-wavy finish. Does TotalBoat Penetrating epoxy finish more smoothly? Does thinning it help give a smoother surface finish?
Yes, use TotalBoat penetrating epoxy, 2 coats on bare plywood, then a light sanding. I use denatured alcohol to thin the first coat. Add about 25% alcohol. Then primer and paint, or, if to be finished bright, two coats of Interlux 1026 under about 4 coats of Varnish. My current favorite varnish is Interlux Schooner with a little Penetrol added to improve the flow.Hope this helps.Peter
all i use cpes on is the the butt ends of planks so i am no helpâ�£
I cut the first coat with thinner to get the best penetration - 2 parts to 1(mix well) and then 1 part thinner. Second coat is Â½ part thinner and thethird is no thinner. That produces a very smooth finish.
It is a low viscosity and once it penetrates and cures it can be sanded smooth and another finish coat applied. It is easier to sand and smoother.
JD Tech Team
can you use acetone to dilute product?
Yes--Acetone, Denatured Alcohol or Lacquer Thinner are all acceptable reducers depending on the customer's application.
JD Tech Associate
Yes but I forget the ratio I used. Just eyeball it. I have use Smith Chemical Co. C.P.E.S. viscus (thin) as water. Works great right out of the can. A bit disappointed when I discovered TotallBoat Penetrating Epoxy needed to be thinned.Â Jerry
Yes you can use acetone to thin. Also denatured alcohol can be used as a thinner.Dan
Yes, but do not use more then a 10% dilution.
I have built a lumberyard skiff out of marine ply and some fir. I'd like to protect the wood as much as possible but do not want to get into fiberglass. Can i use this product to seal the edges of the plywood? Should i do all of the wood? Thanks
Hi. The TB penetrating epoxy would accomplish that task however I don't recommend it. Wooden boats don't do epoxy well anywhere the wood might shrink or swell due to atmospheric change. The wood fibers can tear causing adhesion problems. If you're going to topcoat with an easy to use traditional varnish like Epifanes, the Pettit 2018 sealer is very easy to work with and can be topcoated faster without worrying about amine blush. It will seal the end grain. If you're planning on slathering a boatload of epoxy all over the boat you can just warm your epoxy of choice and the wood and it'll suck the solution into the end grain. You're still gonna have to put a UV protection over the epoxy. Don't forget to carefully remove the amine blush.Kind regards
Yes, I think will work as sealant. Be patient with curing time. Keep in mind that epoxy will often result in waxy surface so be sure to sand before painting of other coating.
This product is designed for this application, but there are a lot of different schools on thought at the same time. If you do apply this, it will act simply as a sealer, reinforcing the existing grain and preventing water intrusion, but it will not always prevent the wood from still acting like wood. This product will reduce the chance for rot and water intrusion, but it would still need to be painted or varnished after for UV resilience. Some customers do seal all of the boat, and we have had good feedback from that, but it is more about customer preference. After applying, the penetrating epoxy will probably take at least a day or two to cure. Wash all epoxy with mild soap and water prior to sanding, then apply the desired paint or varnish for protection.
JD Tech Associate
Yes! Use it on all the wood especially the butt ends and plywood edges. Youcan also thin it a little to make it penetrate even more. Any epoxy thinnerwill do. Lightly sand smooth and give it at least 3 coats of paint sandingbetween coats. You will have a very durable finish and still feel like awood boat
My advise is to roll all the sharp edges , use two coats epoxy as per directions ,not too thick,Should never be a problem ....
I applied TB Penetrating Epoxy on to a table I'm making out of Sapele. After waiting 5 days for it to cure I sanded it off and applied Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss diluted 25% with Epifanes Brush Thinner. After 36 hours the varnish is still not quite dry. (I also applied the varnish to a test piece that did not have TBPE on it and it dried w/in 12 hours). Is this normal? My concern is that perhaps I sanded off too much of the TBPE, leaving enough to seal the wood so that the varnish would not adhere to the wood but not enough that the varnish would bond to the TBEP.Is this possible and if so how much should I sand the TBPE before applying the varnish?
Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss indicates to thin 25% for new wood, in this case the TBPE would have sealed the wood so thinning should not be necessary. It is also recommended to wash the TBPE with a mild soap and water before sanding (if you are not noticing adhesion issues, this is not be an issue). The Wood Finish should have no issues with curing or bonding to the TBPE once sanded smooth if the TBPE was mixed and cured properly, as it is a simple air dry product. The sample that you did on bare wood, most of the material was probably absorbed by the grain, and in this case the reducer may not have been able to evaporate or penetrate, allowing it to trap in the reducer.
JD Tech Associate
Will water-based clear "Spar" Polyethylene stick as well as Spar Varnish to the cured epoxy? (Anyone try this?) Thanks!
Once cured, TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy is inert(if mixed and applied properly). Wash the surface with soapy water, lightly sand and apply. Adhesion to this substrate should be comparable with any other cured, inert surface. We do not get a lot of questions regarding polyethylene coatings, as polyurethane and other resin systems are more commonly used on this product, but if applied properly under the proper conditions, there should be no difference in adhesion.
JD Tech Associate
Used this to finish and seal wood, strengthen old, damaged wood and seal through hulls through wood. Used it to seal exposed wood edges of decking. The low viscosity really penetrates the wood and creates a very strong water resistant finish. I have used a little wood flour and silica thickener to add just enough body to easily fill small gaps and cracks. Getting ready seal wood on a rear bulkhead I'm replacing in a 30' whaler I'm rebuilding. It's easy to measure, work with, and a very reasonable working time.
I would buy this product again.
I am rebuilding a 1988 Starcraft SFM 160 and I used this epoxy on all the new wood that will go back into the boat. The penetration is good and the treated wood is hard and impervious to water penetration. I used the cold temperature product because my garage in the winter is not that warm.
Seals and Penetrates Well
This epoxy penetrated and sealed my mahogany rudders on my Gemini catamaran. I mixed it with 2 parts resin, 1 part hardener and 1 part acetone.I applied three coats as the lower edges of my rudders had cracks and dings.The order taker at Jamestown thought I needed a quart which I ordered but a pint would have been more than enough as this goes a long way.
used it to waterproof and saturate some soft wood around a hatch
This product is awesome!
I have been using this on the inside of a rebuild 57 Lyman. Makes things so much easier to help attaching the ribs. Gives my new screws easier to insert by giving the wood a solid feel and also filling any gap from the old screws.
Not as penetrating as I had hoped, but good on end grain
Using to seal new pine on exterior house trim to guard against future rot, which has been a problem for me in our northeast climate with pine trim. I thinned the product with acetone for better penetration, but still found it thicker than I had hoped it would be. Tended to form lumpy puddles where penetration was less than optimal, which were hard to brush away, and even harder to sand out. But the viscosity was just right for sealing endgrain in one application. Going to do some comparison testing for durability versus Smith's on some side-by-side sets of garage doors faced with pine.
Upstate New York
What a difference his makes
Made my life so much easier no second guessing. Many boards replaced but this also allowed me to keep many more in place. Works as stated and have bought many and will be buying more.
Looking for something better than the "water-based deck wood sealer" sold at the big box stores. I found this product to be the one. The factory RV pullout floor failed at the edge of the plywood from not being properly sealed. Doing the work myself in replacing the factory floorboard with a much better product (3/4", 7-ply, APA Marina plywood) why not get the best. Took the advice from the video I also add some solvent to thin out the 2 part epoxy which seems to allow the plywood to suck-it-up was also helpful. From what I can tell it works just as advertised. Other than the GOV charging an EPA-Fee (taxes) for shipping it was still worth the price.
Used this to soak new plywood floor sections in engine room. Easy to mix, low odor, and good penetration. Let it dry two days before I sanded and painted.
Great product, works well.
I am quite pleased with this product. Plenty of working time to assure that you get the job accomplished with excellent coverage.