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Jamestown Distributors(800) 497-0010
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TotalBoat TotalFair is a lightweight two-component epoxy putty used for fairing, filling, shaping, and repair. Its simple 1 to 1 mix ratio by volume changes to a green color when the individual blue and yellow components are mixed properly. TotalFair has excellent sag resistance on vertical or inclined surfaces and is easy to sand when cured. At 80°F, TotalFair is sandable in just 3 hours.
Provides excellent moisture resistance and can be used above or below the waterline on a variety of substrates; including fiber-reinforced plastics (FRP), aluminum, steel, and wood.
NEW PINT KITS!
2-PINT KIT: includes one pint Part A & one pint Part B.
2-QUART KIT: includes one quart Part A & one quart Part B.
GALLON KIT: includes half-gallon Part A & half-gallon Part B.
Each kit includes 1 plastic spreader.
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TotalFair Epoxy Fairing Compound Features & Benefits
Easy to mix, easy to apply.
Simple 1:1 resin to hardener mix ratio.
Works on multiple substrates, including FRP, wood, aluminum, & steel.
No sagging on inclined, vertical, or overhead surfaces.
Sandable in just 3 hours, at 80°F.
Very easy to sand flush with the surface.
Excellent moisture resistance.
For use above and below the waterline.
Gelcoat should not be applied directly over TotalFair or the gelcoat will not cure properly. Instead, apply TotalBoat 2-Part Epoxy Primer or TotalBoat TotalProtect Epoxy Barrier Coat Primer over TotalFair, before applying Gelcoat. Primers are sold separately.
Additional Application Notes
When filling holes or gouges: Filling holes up to 3/4" thick may need a second pass, once cured. When fairing a large gouge (maximum depth fill), a 6:1 width to depth ratio is recommended per application. For deep/narrow areas that exceed 6:1, just apply TotalFair in stages, building up each time.
Do not apply TotalFair over 1-component previously painted surfaces. If you are not sure what the previous coating is, remove it before applying TotalFair.
If TotalFair crystallizes, simply close the containers completely and set them in a sealed plastic bag, with no air. Place the bag in a bowl of warm water (130-140 degrees F) for a couple of hours. This action will undo the crystallization, and the product will be the proper consistency for use.
When storing TotalFair for more than 1 month, cover the remaining material in each container with plastic sheeting before securing the lid tightly.
Resin Density, lbs/gal
Hardener Density, lbs/gal
Mix Ratio by Weight
Mix Ratio by Volume
Work Life at 70 degrees F
Tack Free Time at 70 degrees F
Sag Resistance, inches
50-100 degrees F
For your safety, wear protective gloves when mixing TotalFair, and wear a proper respirator when sanding cured TotalFair.
Number Of Parts:
Can this product be used over vc-17, or will it need to be removed?
While I can't speak to VC-17 directly. I can say this is basically a polyvinyl body filler, laying this over any anti fouling paint seems like a bad idea. It may adhere in the short term, but, long term you'll get better results with a clean surface. I advise getting down to raw material and building back up.Good luck
No, remove the VC17
JD Tech Team
Hi There,I am repairing a 1969 13' Boston Whaler which as you are aware is Fiberglass. I have some large gouges in the hull I plan to patch with glass, and others that are just small pits that I'd like to fill. I plan on using the fairing compound to fill the pitted areas and help shape above the glass in the bigger areas. Can I gelcoat right over the fairing compound and is that the best method for both type of problem areas? (I purchases the TotalBoat gelcoat with wax). Thanks!
You can not gelcoat directly over TotalFair. There are two ways you can attack this. One would be to use TotalBoat Polyester Fairing Compound, in lieu of TotalFair, or to use an epoxy primer such as TotalProtect, or 2-Part Epoxy Primer over TotalFair, but before applying gelcoat. For some reason we have found that gelcoat adheres wonderfully to those primers, but does not always do well directly over TotalFair. TotalBoat Polyester Fairing Compound does not have all of the same properties as TotalFair, but will allow you to gelcoat directly over, even if it has not completely cured in spots, to form a chemical bond with the gelcoat. Please do not hesitate to reach out to one of our techs at (800) 497-0010 if you have any questions along the way.
JD Tech Associate
I am using Total Fair to fair out old cracked and splintery wood flooring that has first been sanded to bare wood and then sealed with Smith's CPES epoxy sealer. The Total Fair goes on well and sands nicely leaving a nice smooth surface ready for paint. My question is what sort of paint I can use to topcoat. I have experimented with both oil and latex floor paint. The latex seems to dry very quickly. The oil paint seems to dry very slowly-- not even really hard after a week. Usually the oil paint dries hard overnight. I am just wondering if anyone has had any experience with this sort of situation.
We have had the same issue. Have you tried thinning the oil paint withnaphtha? We have at times thinned the oil paint by 1/3. More coats areneeded but the drying time is shortened.
My first thought would be amine blush on the epoxy. Epoxy needs to be washedafter curing or sanded. Personally, I would do both.
As other customers have pointed out, you may be running into an amine blush issue. Though both of these epoxies are designed to have little or no amine blush, washing with mild soap and water before sanding smooth may help. Latex is a water-based air dry paint that will lack durability when compared to the oil paint. Oil paint also need to be laid down in thin coats. We would also recommend testing paints such as these in a small inconspicuous spot. An epoxy primer may also help with the oil paint, giving a barrier that is designed for paint top coating.
JD Tech Associate
Have expoxyed an Okoume patch to repair a hole in my small boat. Was planning to use a fairing compound to smooth out the junction between the hull and patch. Will I be able to fiberglass (cloth/resin) over the faired areas?
I used this over some merranti plywood patch seams that were glued in place with west system epoxy adhesive. Painted and primed with Interlux Pre Coat and Interlux one part paint worked good. I will be using it again this week, on other patches I just did this last weekend.
Absolutely. This product cures to a hard, inert surface that allows for other epoxies to easily form a mechanical bond to it.
JD Tech Associate
ok.... sorry if this is redundant...... I filled this out and sent it earlier but appeared to not go anywhere.... when I hit the send button....so.... last year I purchased this product (1qt) and faired out a part of the command bridge and the produce did a super job.... this year I want to fair out the fiberglass area's of the salon cabin and mixed up a small portion to fair a area at the rear starboard side..... while mixing I noticed the the Part A (yellow) portion did not mix all the way and left bits of yellow in the mixture.... no matter how long I mixed..... is there a way to get the yellow to a more solvent position again? I stored this product in a dry place with the lids securely in place.... so am a bit confused as to what cause's this....? Thanksbl
It does form a skin as it gets older in the container. Just skim the thinlayer of dried off and go for it! It'll be good as new
This can happen, one trick that some customers do is to put a piece of plastic wrap or poly sheeting before applying the lid and storing for a longer period of time, but it also seems like you have some crystallization. If you put the yellow tub in a hot water bath (don't submerge it over the lid) and get all of the product up to 140 degrees or so for 1-2 hours and stir occasionally it should return to the original form.
JD Tech Associate
Well I don't know but I think you have to buy a fresh one I used mine for my project and have no issues
I'm evaluating this product to fill & fair a void at the keel/hull joint (below waterline) on a fiberglass sailboat. Since I don't know how water tolerant this product is, I need to know what type of barrier coat - if any - is required between it and surrounding seawater. I'd appreciate any advice on this.
I have used this on several restoration projects when a fiberglass bottom is required. After application and fairing I apply a really light layer of glass cloth (2 to 4 lb.) and at least two layers of resin. I have used this product since first offered and it has never failed.
Keel/hull joints are very tough. This product is water proof inherently, but the main issue is the flex of the joint. This TotalFair does have some flexibility, but it may have separation again down the road. TotalProtect is the recommended barrier coat to work with this product, but again, if the joint is prone to fail again, the barrier coat will not keep water out if the keel is moving. Also, please ensure that your keel bolts (iff accessible) are snugged up per manufacturer's spec, and if this is a recurring issue, you may want to consider grinding this joint back and applying a few layers of fiberglass to reinforce the joint, fair, barrier coat, then bottom paint to prevent this seam from opening again.
JD Tech Associate
Can this be used on fiberglass dune buggy body that has many cracks in the gel coat
Shorty the buggy man
Don't know. I used on wood boat with good results.
It depends on the depth of the cracks. Widen the crack, removing any loose material with an awl or can opener. If 2 mm or less deep, then yes this product might do the trick. Clean with solvent, sand and fill. If deeper than that, then the cracks are probably structural and you will need some cloth too.
The short a answer is yes. BUT if you're planning to add new gelcoat over it then NO.It's complicated. This epoxy will bond to gelcoat but gelcoat will not bond to it. I learned this the hard way.You have to use Formula 27 epoxy if you wish to cover the repair with new gelcoat. Read the Total Boat gelcoat repair info on their website and watch their videos. YouTube also has many gelcoat repair clips.Good luck.Linda
Fairing can fill the cracks but you will still need to redo the gell coat
I don't know. This is a good product I would give it a try.
This product works great as a fairing material, but you can not gelcoat directly onto this product. All gelcoat cracks would need to be ground out to a V shape by a tool such as a dremmel. If you wanted to gelcoat over this product, you would need to coat it with TotalBoat 2-Part Epoxy Primer or TotalProtect
JD Tech Associate
I purchased this product to repair a fin keel where the fairing has come off. I also have some holes in my transom where a transducer was removed. Three holes below waterline, one above, all fully go through the transom. Can I use this stuff to fill the holes prior to gel coating?
This product is not for what you are doing. This is a "fairing" compound.In other words, you have very minor surface irregularities over which youskim this product and then sand down to a smooth finish.For your fin to hull repair, you sound use thickened epoxy to form a filletalong the joint line (tongue depressor works great as application tool) andover which you should lay up fiberglass tape starting with the widest goingto the narrowest. After that cures, sand it as smooth as possible, THENuse the fairing compound to fair out the irregularities.Small holes in the hull, tape off one side and inject thickened epoxy inthe other with throw away syringes. Allow the epoxy to rise above the hullsurface. Let it cure and then sand it down smooth with the surface. Theholes may have permitted water to intrude into the hull, so they should bedried before the epoxy job. Drill them out with a bit a couple of sizeslarger than the hole to remove wet material and aid the drying. Acceleratethe drying with a hair dryer. Make sure it is dry; do not trap moisture inthe hull.
This product is great for fairing, but can not directly be gelcoated over. You must use an epoxy primer such as TotalProtect or 2-Part Epoxy Primer prior to gelcoating. Gelcoat will not cure directly over TotalFair.
JD Tech Associate
Can this be used over your high build primer?
My experience with it is that I am able to use it over anything except plastic. Great material and zero shrink. Takes clear epoxy finish and then paint perfectly.
TotalBoat TotalFair can only be used over epoxy based primers. It can not go directly over the TotalBoat Topside Primer
JD Tech Associate
We are planning on using Total Boat Fairing on our sailboat hull. Will there be any problems using it on a lead keel, old gelcoat and new epoxy repairs? ( West System )Also, we are hoping to finish the faring job before we head north for the summer. The boat will be in Green Cove Springs, Florida for 6 months before we return. At that time we want to put on a proper epoxy barrier coat(s) followed by ant-fouling paint. Will that be a problemfor us? Will there be anything in particular that will have to be done to the faired areas when we return? Any other concerns or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.Thanks kindly, Jim
I have used it on the hull of my 1983 Cape Dory for fairing the throughhull fittings as well as over repairs. It is very easy to work wit and isholding up very well.Just be sure to mix completely which is easy due to the color change thatoccurs when the two colors are mixed..I have always covered the faired areas with antifouling paint aftercompleting the application.
Jim,I have used this product on many occasions above and below the waterline on lead keels and gelcote, as well as new construction with epoxy.Â As in any application, surface preparation is the key to success.Â You must sand and clean every surface well in order to provide a good bond.Â It is better to build up several thinner layers if you have deep imperfections.Â I refer you to this link from the Jamestown site for guidance.Â https://doc.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/TotalBoat/TotalBoat_TotalFair_TDB.pdfOf course, above the waterline you will want to apply a primer coat over the faired repair before the final finish coat, just as you would any paint job.Â As far as applying a barrier coat at a future date, simply give the entire surface a good sanding and wipe-down and proceed according to the instructions on the particular barrier coat you choose. It's not really that scary, and when you're done you can come and fair my keel.Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Be well, Randy
Is exactly what I used it for.Held up perfect after a year.You will have to sand lightly to blend it in with the keel.Frank ZÂ Â
Hi Jim, you want to grind the lead bare and INSTANTLY coat with an unthickened epoxy or barrier coat to seal the lead and prevent it from oxidizing. Then you can fair the material with TotalFair. This product works great on gelcoat and previously cured epoxy, but the amine blush must be removed from the West Systems before applying TotalFair. Barrier coat will adhere wonderfully to cured and sanded TotalFair. Also if you were hoping to use gelcoat over this product for cosmetic repairs above the waterline, gelcoat will not cure directly over TotalFair, so you must use an epoxy surfacing primer or barrier coat first.
JD Tech Associate
I will use again
It does not sag
West River MD
This provided me with prompt service,delivery, great support
Product worked exactly as described. And company support was great.Will recommend to all I know. Keep up the great product and mostly support and you will have happy customers and a growing business
Larry from California
Oakhurst, Bass Lake, California
Smooth as butter
This is the best Product I have found for filling in low area dents and to smooth over a area it sands easy there are no air bubbles pin holes to repairs again , not in cooler weather I put both cans in warm water to warm them up it spreads smooth and you can get a lot move covered.
I will buy this again
This product is so easy to use. I used it for fairing a mold for a boat part.
Love this stuff
Well it has saved me tons of sand paper and that means money , easy to mix , but in cold weather I take a bowl of water heat up in the microwave put total flair in and let it set for 30 to 45 mins makes it smooth and spread out thinner , and you get no air bubbles from total flair I have used bond o in the pass on cars and boats so more time and money saved .
YES I would buy again
Works great for fairing above and below the bottom. Used to fair my keel and worked great and easy to tool. Used a batten to mark the highs and lows. Mixes easy 1:1 and changes color to green.
About as good as marine fillers come
Wish it would be a little runnier, and also dry quicker. But, I realize you can't have everything you want.
Like other reviewers have indicated, it is difficult to mix precisely. It would be nice if you could apply it with a 2-part caulking gun like their Thixowood 2.0 product, but it is too viscous to apply that way. Anyway it bonds very easily to anything if you follow the instructions and it is easy to sand. In fact, I found that after knocking off the ripples from application with a course rasp, I was able to make it perfectly flat and smooth with a Stanley No. 4 smoother plane. It is much easier to smooth than the Thixowood, but of course it has considerably less tensile strength. I will reorder when I run out of it.
Used to repair my keel, faired to original shape.
Lake Norman, NC
I would buy this product again
I purchased this product to use on something I'm sure it was not intended for. My son and I are completely restoring a 1990 Toyota 4x4 motorhome for him to do some traveling in when he graduates collage. Part of the process was tearing the walls down to their aluminum framing, from there we insulated and covered each side with luan. The fiberglass skin we are applying would show any seams or screw heads so I applied this product over 100% of the outside wall and while it was laying flat on the ground I made a 4' x2' sanding block with a 4' handle and had at it. One reason I chose this product was it slower curing time which allowed me a wet edge as the sides are 7' x 17' . I've painted many cars and this product sands easy and does not clog paper. The only reason for four stars is I want to see how well it does over time. Also you can save a few penny's on shipping by not putting the this side up arrows on ALL SIDES because ðŸ¤¯ , they don't care, can't read IDK.