TotalProtect is a universal high-build epoxy primer & barrier coat. Use above and below the waterline to prevent & repair gelcoat blistering. It eliminates the possibility of water absorption & migration, the major cause of fiberglass hull blisters.
TotalProtect is also an excellent anticorrosive primer for all underwater metals including aluminum, steel, lead, cast iron, stainless & bronze & is compatible with all antifouling paints. This 2-part 3:1 ratio system is easy to mix, dries quickly & requires no sanding.
Available in Quart & Gallon kits in White and Gray colors.
Bonus: Each Gallon order includes a free paint roller frame, 3/8-in. nap solvent-safe roller cover, metal tray, stir stick, paint suit, 2-in. chip brush, roll 1-in. painter's tape & 1 pr. latex gloves. Each Quart order includes: free stir stick, 2-in. chip brush, and 1 pr. latex gloves.
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Universal epoxy primer & barrier coat for above and below the waterline
Prevents and repairs gelcoat blistering issues on fiberglass boats
Eliminates water absorption
Excellent for corrosion prevention on all underwater metals
Apply by roller or spray
May be thinned up 10%
Durable, flexible epoxy barrier
Compare to Interlux Interprotect 2000E, Pettit Protect, and other high-build marine epoxy barrier coatings
Specifications & Instructions
Quart Size Kit Includes: 3/4 quart base component & 1/2 pint activator (makes 1 quart of mixed product). Note: Containers will not come filled completely.
Gallon Size Kit Includes 3/4 gallon base component & 1 quart of activator. Note: Base container will not be completely filled so you can pour the activator into it and mix.
Color: Gray or White
Vehicle Type: Epoxy Resin
Number of Components: 2
Coverage: Estimated coverage 2 mils dry thickness per coat is 400 sq per gallon.
Application Method: Brush, solvent-safe roller (# of coats depends on roller cover—see below), or spray equipment
Average Dry Time: At 75°F, TotalProtect dries to the touch in about 2 hours.
Recoat Time (TP over TP): 3-48 hours @ 75°F
Overcoat Time (Antifoulant over TP): 5-7 hours @ 75°F
Note: Sand with 80 grit and recoat if you miss these windows
Induction Period: Allow a 20-minute induction period before reduction and application
Reducing: Reduce up to 10% with TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100
Cleanup: TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 or TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep
Application Temperature: Not for use where air, material, or substrate temperature is below 50°F or above 90°F.
Pot Life: 5 hours
Recommended Dry Film Thickness: 10 mils, typically 4 to 5 coats (depends on application, see below)
Recommended Brush: Chip brush (4-5 coats)
1/8-in. Nap Roller Cover: 6-7 coats
1/4-in. Nap Roller Cover: 5 coats
3/8-in. Nap Roller Cover: 4 coats
Spray: 4-5 coats
Shelf Life: 24 months or more
Note: Do not use over 1-part paints.
How To Apply Marine Barrier Coating
Surface Preparation Guidelines:
Bare fiberglass should be thoroughly wiped down with TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep, followed by sanding with 80-grit sandpaper. Always remove sanding residue and then wipe again with TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep.
Bare metal should be blasted to a bright appearance. All residue must be removed. Sweep with a clean brush or broom and use an air line and or vacuum. Apply TotalProtect within 1 hour. If this is not possible, sand with emery cloth and wipe down with TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep before priming.
If applying over TotalProtect, wash with soap and water and let dry. Sand with 80-grit sandpaper and remove any sanding residue. Wipe with TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep.
Combine base and activator components in a 3:1 ratio. If you are mixing the entire contents, this means mixing the whole can of activator with the whole can of base.
Wear protective gloves, clothing protection, eye/face protection, and a proper respirator when applying or sanding TotalBoat TotalProtect.
Below Water Line (yes/no):
Number Of Parts:
Barrier Coat Primer
I have two questions: First, I have a black hull sailboat; can I add black tint (a US Composites color tint designed to be mixed with clear epoxy or gelcoat) to the grey barrier coat to darken the barrier coat to more closely match my black hull? Second, can I apply a speed polish like MCLUBE HULKOTE to the barrier coat after it fully cures?
The barrier coat epoxy is not intended as a finish coat or gelcoat substitute. It is a moisture barrier coat/primer. For a proper repair to a dark finish substrate or gelcoat, you need to repaint or re-gelcoat over the barrier coat. I assume your repair is above the water line since you are attempting to match a color. You should fair the area with an epoxy fairing compound sand it out, and paint or gelcoat to match
Generally speaking, an epoxy tint should not have any adverse effects, but it must NOT be added until the base and activator have been thoroughly mixed and induced. Always test for compatibility using a small amount of epoxy before committing to the bigger project. Do not add more than 10% colorant either. Hullkote should be just fine once cured and sanded to a smooth finish.
JD Tech Associate
how much needed for vega 27
Albin Vega 27? You will need at least 2 gallons, probably 2 gallons and 1-2 quarts for the 4 or 5 coats to create the needed mil thickness, depending on application thickness and how much waste is incurred
JD Tech Associate
I have purchased the JD select ablative anti fouling paint. I have sanded all the old paint off to do repairs to the hull. Should I purchase this product and apply this before applying the bottom paint to the hull?
I am new to all of this as well, so based my decision on the same kind ofresearch you are doing. I did the same thing last year and took the bottomdown to bare fiberglass. At that point, you have to put on a barrier coatto keep water out of the glass (bottom paint doesn't seal it). I used 4coats of the TotalProtect Epoxy, then 3 coats of ablative bottom paint. Theboat has been in the brackish water of the Chesapeake Bay for about 9 monthsnow (including through winter) and is holding up great so far.Steve
Only if there are no traces of old paint (or anything else the would notbe good for adherence) left on the hull. I have no way of knowing if youreally /need /the barrier coat. I decided to put it on my 1981 S2 whichis a solid glass hull. If your hull is cored you should absolutely applyit. Take the opportunity to do it while (if) your boat is ready. It'seasy to work with. Add many layers acc. to instructions while you have achance. The posted sq ft was accurate. Heads up: do not use the rollercover in the package. It's way too coarse. Get something smoother.
In most cases I can think of the answer is yes. That said, to be specific about your situation, I would need to ask a few questions.1: will you be leaving your boat in the water more than 4 months each year?2: does the boat have existing big blisters, say about a blister per square foot?3: do you plan to repair the existing blisters now?4: have you determined the moisture content of the underwater hull?There may be some circumstances which would get a "no" for an answer, depending on how you answer these questions. By the way, I've done or overseen many blister repairs for boats all the way up to about 60 feet.
Hi: When you sanded down your bottom paint you probably sanded into orthrough the gelcoat underneath in a few places. The barrier coat will helpprevent water intrusion where the gelcoat is compromised. Make sure ALL theold bottom paint is gone. The coating will fail if painted over old paint.Good luck!A fellow boat owner*Sent:* Saturday, May 5, 2018 9:26 AM*Subject:* Can you help a fellow shopper?
If you have sanded back to bare gelcoat or fiberglass, it is a strong recommendation to apply a barrier coat while you are at that stage. Barrier coats will prevent water intrusion creating osmotic blisters (really annoying to deal with later on, especially if you can prevent them).
JD Tech Associate
i am painting the interior of an airstream trailer. walls are sanded and cleaned with tsp. is this a good product for an interior application? how many coats will it take ? can i use latex paint over it?
It may just be too stinky/toxic for that space. I actually painted interior of an old airstream and just used the best water based primer I could find and it was fine 5 years later. Then I sold it and they repainted and as far as I know it's holding up well.
HiIt's epoxy so it shouldn't matter inside or out. I used it below the waterline on our aluminium boat and it has performed well. As long as you roughed up the aluminium you should be OK. You may have to sand and wipe the epoxy with solvent before you paint over it. I used bottom paint outside.
I would think this would work...for this application, and the prep sounds appropriate. My recollection is that this finished nicely and covered well...would suggest two coats. I believe it benefitted from thinning.JD will need to address the question about latex.
Barrier coat is to stop water infiltration into fiberglass material aka hull of a boat. I don't think it will for you usage. A standard seal coat is all you need. Then paint with latex paint. Barrier cost needs a aggressive paint to adhere to it.
One coat should get it, you will need to thin a little if rolling/brushing,,,,,,and thin a lot if you are sprayingBut you do not need the barrier coat, I just did my transom above and below the waterline with Barrier.You can use Total boat wet edge with foam rollers.Glenn
Yes this would be fine..yes you can outlasted on top but it would be easy to peel off..better to st a y with an epoxy paint
Hi Greg, this product works great on wood, metal and fiberglass. The Tech Data Sheet on the TotalProtect page has specific details for applying this product on each substrate. 1-2 coats should work fine for your application, and latex paint will adhere to TotalProtect once cured.
JD Tech Associate
I have a LIDO 14 from the 60 ties that has a blistering problem. Your barrier coat appears to be the answer to stop this problem. What amount of product would you suggest to buy. The boat is kept in the water, salt and fresh, for short periods of time. I did notice when having a tarp over it and moisture/rain is trapped for even a short time, bubbles will start to form and stay. I would like to bring this "oldie" back to near new, knowing it will take work.Any tips would be appreciated, eg. amount of material etc. .Thank you, Wilf
I did an old Pearson 43 (6.25' draft, large but not full keel) withblistering as well. A gallon kit was good for right about one coat. I did2 or 3 coats after blister repairs and then paint, also about a gallon percoat.Mike
I found this product difficult to use as in "larger" mixed quantities. I mixed about 12oz total, no thinning, an amount I could brush on based on using another sealer. With one quick coat I started a second to make sure I had coverage. Soon after I got into that the sealer started to "smoke" and rapidly started to gel.At about 15 minutes the container started getting warm with 4 oz of mix left. It got so hot it melted the plastic mixing container.Having also used Smith's CPES in small and large (entire bottom of 17' runabout), I prefer it as the specified mix really soaks in without having to worry about it setting off too quickly, though hazmat gear is required.So, bottom line, if you use TB, take plenty of time to experiment with mixture thinning ratios. Hope this helped.Good luck,Russ
You will probably need roughly 2/3 to 3/4 of a gallon kit to complete the task, and apply a full mil thickness barrier coat to your boat (assuming some waste material for brushes, rollers and what gets left in the tray after. It's most economical to buy a gallon kit, you probably want to get a chip brush, and choose the roller thickness that you want - 1/8" roller covers are the smoothest finish but would require 6 coats, 3/8" roller cover would require 4 coats but it can leave a stippled look. You should be able to do all of the coats in one day if you can manage the material and time well.
JD Tech Associate
is this a good primer for BOTH top and bottom of a fiberglass boat
Relatively expensive and difficult to sand smooth, so I would not use it where not needed as a water barrier.Paul
Epoxy barrier coat can be used both above and below the waterline. I used it on a fiberglass boat to seal fairing compound prior to painting.
Hi Tony, it is fine for above or below the waterline use, and even for topsides, so yes. Many people use this as a topside prime for it's resilience and cost effectiveness, but it may not have quite the finite smooth sanding qualities that you will get in an epoxy surfacing primer.
JD Tech Associate
I am barrier coating a 34 foot Trawler with TotalProtect...How long after mixing and the 20 minute induction period do I have to apply the material before it can't be applied by roller anymore?
This depends more on temperature than anything. If it's 75-80 degrees or warmer, you may want to only mix half of a gallon kit at a time, or if you have 2 people rolling, you can mix the whole gallon kit at a time. Reducing a little bit with Special Brushing Thinner 100 may extend your flow a little bit but will not noticeably extend your pot life.
JD Tech Associate
I used a barrier coat as primer on my decks with one part deck paint 10 years ago. Must I remove all the one part to use this as a primer?
Potentially the solvents in the new Total Boat primer could cause a problem(lifting or wrinkling) with the 10 year old 1 part paint. I'd experimentwith it on a small section of your deck. My personal favorite primer is theSystem Three epoxy primer. I hate to mention it because I think Jamestowndoesn't sell it. I know you wouldn't have a problem with the System Threeproduct. It's high build, sand easily and doesn't contain nasty solvents.You can thin it with water although I prefer alcohol. It cleans up withwater as well.
Yes unfortunately you should strip the one-part paint. This product will soften and lift up many one-part paints. One-part paints also can not give you the mechanical bond that epoxy primer will have directly over another epoxy primer.
JD Tech Associate
Can this be used as hull paint under water line for a trailered only boat does it require painting over it. Thx
It can be used below the waterline for trailered boats as the finish coating, and even wet sanded to an extremely smooth finish. The one thing to keep in mind is that it has some resilience to UV, but it is not designed for long term UV exposure.
JD Tech Associate
What is the recommended ratio of thinner for spraying?
TotalProtect may be thinned up to a maximum of 10%.
JD Tech Team
would buy again
did not explain how to thin it
san jacinto, cal.
yes i will buy again
have not put boat in water yet, but went on and built up as advertised.not an easy job hard to mix very thick requires more effort than bottom paint, but well worth the work if it does the job;
new port richey fl.
looks like it will cure my problem
used product to recoat boat bottom of fiber glass after a very bad blister problem went on well and hid the damage well.
new port richey fl.
So far so good
So far so good. Mixes easily, applies well, and sands easily. I'm not sure how well it wears, I'm most of the way (hopefully) through a two-year boat restore. Has not been in the water yet. Not able to speak of it's performance yet. Seems good.
Battle Creek Mi
Exactly as advertised. Even pot life, which I usually take with a large grain of salt. For those of you that had trouble mixing it, two words: mud mixer. It made short work of getting the solids off the bottom of the can and fully blended. Works great for stirring bottom paint, too.
I would definitely use all Total Boat products again.
Easy to mix and apply. Looks great when dry.
great product but made this old guy hustle
it went on easy and covered well. I found it superior compared to other products I have used. It is the best value I know off. At 73 I had to hustle pretty hard to get it all coats applied before it dried out in bucket.
Total Boat epoxy primer
The mooring lines were cut on my 1977 Seafarer 23 last fall and the boat ended up about 3 miles away on the rocks causing damage to the keel and rudder. This summer , I stripped all the bottom paint ( 8 layers of Pettit Unipoxy) , sanded with 80 grit paper with an orbital sander , repaired the damage using Total Boat 2 part fairing compound. ( of which I'm very impressed, easily mixed , goes on smooth and easy to sand). After washing , allowing to dry and wiping down with acetone , I mixed and rolled on 3 coats of Total Boat epoxy primer. At about 70 degrees , the port side was dry enough to overcoat by the time the starboard side was done. So I just kept going around the boat until it was done. The primer mixed well , rolled on smooth filling small imperfections. . Waited 3 hours and applied 2 coats of Total Boat Select bottom paint, again very happy with. It covered well and went a long way, only used 1/2 gal. The total paint job took about 10 hours , 2 men and a case of beer. The boat hasn't seen water yet but the select bottom paint gives me 18 months to launch being water activated. So far I'm VERY impressed with all the Total Boat products I've used and with Jamestown Distributers. Free shipping . rollers paint suit ,etc. Its a lot of work , but worth it , My old boat looks new. Thank You. Hopefully the bottom will standup to the elements after a season on the mooring next summer in Lake Champlain. I will write another review.
Saranac Lake , New York
Seems to work great once you get it on the hull.
Be sure to have numerous plastic pint/quart containers, roller covers, paint pan liners and brushes because of the short 20 minute working time.
The epoxy worked great.
follow up with bottom paint. haven't tried to clean yet just put in the water.