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Circa 1850 Fast Dry Polyurethane
$10.98Limited Stock
Circa 1850 Fast Dry Polyurethane
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Based on 16 Reviews
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Circa 1850 Fast Dry Polyurethane Customer Questions and Answers

10 of 17 Questions

Question

Hi, I have an outdoor furniture business and normally use the Man O War Marine Spar Varnish on all my work, but I have an inside project to do including table tops and booths that will get high traffic and lots of cleaning/spills and would like something that is a hard durable finish, I also would like a product that is not overly difficult to apply with china bristles brush, drys well, sets nicely (ie. brush strokes) not overtly fumey, 3-4 coats tops for a nice finish in Satin/Matte. What would your opinion be on this product? Or, is there another product I should be looking at?

Asked on 10/21/2011 by Krista Strehle

Top Answer

Hi there. We had installed knotty pine floors all throughout our second floor. To include, sanding, staining, repeat process, & finally the poly application. From our personal experience I do not recommend the product I purchased. We have a 65 pound lab who wreaked havoc on the floors with deep scratches. We tried various applications in different rooms & even re-did one of our daughters' rooms. The item is not as advertised. The product actually chips which is why we had to redo an entire room. So then we had an idea to buff the floors. They are now dangerously too slippery & will be having professionals come in to redo the entire second floor. Still scratches easy as well. However, we recently had a walnut countertop custom made for our kitchen island & was advised to use Min Wax.

Answered on 10/29/2011 by SHERYLENE DENOBREGA
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I am not sure what "high traffic" you are talking about if it is foot traffic. I don't know I haven't used Circa 1850 Fast Dry Polyrethane for that application. I have used it for kitchen table top that gets it share of spills. I found this product easy to apply with a brush and not overlay fumey. I think 3-4 coats would give you the desired finish. I use this product in conjunction with the Circa Tung Oil which I find really enhanses the natural beauty of the wood and the Circa Polurethane for the extra protection. These are the finishes I prefer and recommend. I hope this helps.

Answered on 10/23/2011 by JAMES INGRAHAM

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The 1812 is great stuff. I have used it on our kitchen bar top ( we have 5 kids) and on the cabin sole on our 1968 wooden boat. Good luck.

Answered on 10/21/2011 by THOMAS KILEY

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I would recomend this product for your purpose. Slightly fumey. If fumes are an issue look at water based urethanes instead.

Answered on 10/22/2011 by MARTIN ROBINSON

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Krista, As polyurethane's go, this one is best of bread if you are looking for a hard smooth finish on indoor projects. I can't speak to its outside use and generally here in the northern Sierra Nevada in higher altitude, urethane doesn't even last a year on outside projects, although I have not used Circa 1850 in outside applications. This product goes on great with a brush, but the air temp at time of application and at least an hour afterwords needs to be 68 F or above. I get a smooth high gloss finish on hardwood floors that is very durable and doesn't scuff easily. The only word of caution, this product drys fast giving off a lot of vapors so when you use it indoors plenty of ventilation and a good 3M organic vapor mask is a must. Hope this helps... Best Regards, Dave

Answered on 10/21/2011 by Dave Hildebrandt

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Krista - I used the Circa 1850 Fast Dry Polyurethane on the teak/holly floor boards in my sail boat and have one season on them. Application - Very low fume, self leveling, I would give it 24 hours between coats, it is a gloss finish. I used foam brushes, but think it would finish even better with a higher quality brush. Durability - So far I am pleased...not high traffic area, but pretty abusive environment.

Answered on 10/23/2011 by REB BLANCHARD

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A friend bought the semi gloss and loved it. Could recoat in 4 hours. I bought the satin and it was horrible. It was still tacky after 24 hours. 70F, 60% humidity. I had to strip off and find another product. If you buy the satin test it on a cheap piece of wood first to verify drying time.

Answered on 10/22/2011 by CARTER CROLEY

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Krista, I would not use any other product for your described project, I have used circa 1850 for 6-8 years and I would not buy any other brand. It will work great and will meet all your needs. Thank,s for asking Loren Milligan

Answered on 10/21/2011 by LOREN MILLIGAN
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Question

Can this be used on a new (bare) cabin sole? Is there a better product for that purpose? I understand Ultimate Sole is no longer available. Thanks

Asked on 02/13/2012 by marc lucier

Top Answer

I used 1810 for two boats recently with great results. Idid 8 coats of gloss and the last was satin. I have been very happy since. Caution: the semi gloss is very glossy. Use satin or gloss.

Answered on 02/19/2012 by THOMAS KILEY
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Hi Marc, The finish of the Circa 1850 was good, but durability was not. I wouldn't use it on the floor. Ultimate Sole is what I used and it was the way to go. Hard to belive it isn't available some where. Canada??

Answered on 02/18/2012 by GLENN HIPP

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Marc, I would use Circa product but I would use the exterior type, you will find it is a great product to work with great finnish. Loren Milligan

Answered on 02/20/2012 by LOREN MILLIGAN

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If I understand the question, this has to do with the flooring in a boat cabin. I don't know what kind of wood is being used - is it teak? Something oily like teak would make it a less-good surface than something like mahogany to receive a film finish. The teak oils would possibly cause the finish to flake off prematurely. Given the very damp/wet conditions, I would look to something that is more penetrating than a film finish such as this. You could thin this product 50-60% first then apply liberally (and go somewhere a day or so while the thinner evaporated! I prefer naphtha over mineral spirits since it evaporates faster.), and that may give additional penetration. I am not a fan of Danish Oils for this purpose as it isn't as good a product as Circa 1850. You might also consider a product such as Cuprinol, specifically designed for marine preservation applications, then apply the Circa 1850 on top of that.

Answered on 02/20/2012 by SCOTT DISMUKES

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Thanks for the response, Glenn. Ultimate Sole is no longer available here I'm told because of the VOCs. I guess I'll keep looking. Please let me know if you find it anywhere, OK? Thanks again, Marc

Answered on 02/18/2012 by marc lucier

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I don't know about a cabin sole, but I have used it for my display of a rocket launcher for my fishing product and a teak table with very satisfactory results. It will dry felatively quickly and allow for multiple coats in a short period of time. The finish is pretty hard as I have put reels on the table for display and there are no marks left behind when they are moved.

Answered on 02/20/2012 by ED MILLER

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Marc - I don't know why it could not be used on new flooring...in my application I was refinishing 44 yr old teak/holly floor boards and took them back to bare wood before application. I have one season since the re-finish and so far so good. Reb S/V Siren Song (Hood 43)

Answered on 02/18/2012 by REB BLANCHARD
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Question

can this product be sprayed?

Asked on 01/20/2012 by Undisclosed

Top Answer

Absolutely. Thin it about 30%-50% wth naphtha (evaproates faster than mineral spirits, but mineral sprits will also work). Spray light coats.

Answered on 01/20/2012 by SCOTT DISMUKES
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Yes. It sprays great. Lays down great. Be careful not to spray too heavy on vertical surfaces. It builds as normal and is very hard when cured.

Answered on 01/20/2012 by RANDOLPH VISCARRA

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We have used what we had, so I cannot check the label. We brushed and tipped it here. As the tech specs from JD stipulate thinning it with mineral spirits, I would go ahead and do some test spraying on a scrap piece of board.

Answered on 01/21/2012 by MICHAEL CLAUDON

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I used a roller and a brush so I cannot answer from specific experience, but the material was relatively thin so if you have good equipment and are good at quickly cleaning same after use, I would say it could be sprayed.

Answered on 01/20/2012 by HENRY APPLEGATE

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I have never sprayed Circa 1850 before, it is a very good product, I don't see why you can't I would sure give it a try. Loren Milligan

Answered on 01/20/2012 by LOREN MILLIGAN

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yes it can be sprayed

Answered on 01/22/2014 by Jonathan Fable

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I'm sorry I can't help. I don't know how to spray I hand rub and it works great.

Answered on 01/20/2012 by JAMES INGRAHAM
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Question

Can this product be used on a tile floor. we have tile floors that have grout lines in them and want to fill the grout lines even with the tiles?. Thank you steve kilde

Asked on 09/11/2011 by steven Kilde

Top Answer

I wouldn't use this product on anything but wood honestly. This is undoubtedly the best poly you can buy for indoor use on wood but using it on ceramic tile doesn't seem to make sense. I'd be worried that it wouldn't stand up to people walking on it all the time and would be very slippery. I don't understand why anybody would want to level the grout lines with the tile, but if that were something I had to do, I would use something really tough like epoxy. MP

Answered on 09/30/2011 by MARK PINTHER
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Answer

I would not recomend this product for filling grout lines. If you think that it takes a number of coats to fill the grain of wood then to fill what would probably be, at least1/16th " differential, you would need so many coats as to be impractical. The product would form a mechanical bond with the porous grout but I feel that the bond with the glazed ceramic tile would be suspect and you would likely encounter delamination between the urethane and the tile surface.

Answered on 09/14/2011 by MARTIN ROBINSON

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Hi Steve I used this on wood floor, not tile, so I have no idea how it would work on tile and grout lines. They have new grout sealers out that are supposed to be pretty good, why not use that which is specifically made for grout?

Answered on 09/13/2011 by SANDRA HORTON

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I haven't tried it, but I would think it would be no problem. The poly is more flexible than the grout and as long as the grout is thoughly dry you should be fine. It will be tedious to apply. Good luck. I would thin it down a bit like it says on the first coat so you get good penetration.

Answered on 10/02/2011 by KEVIN HENDRICKSON

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Hi Steven, I've used polyurethanes for many years, and used this product on my wood floors. It filled the thin cracks between the boards just slightly. On tile? If the tile is glazed, I'm not sure the poly would even adhere well. As far as filling the grout up to the level of the tile (sounds like you're looking for a dead-flat floor) this product is too thin to do that well. The curing time would be measured perhaps in weeks, and durability if it were that thick would be real suspect. This is designed to be a THIN-film finish, and is excellent at that! If all you want to do is seal the grout, there are products for that purpose, perhaps better at the job than a polyurethane would be. If you want to retain the look of your tile, even filling the grout with more grout won't do well - as the grout would thin-out as it extends around the edges of the tile, and would flake off real easily. You'd have to look at some form of an epoxy floor covering, like for a garage floor - don't know if any of that comes in "clear", though. If you were looking for a dead-flat floor, and didn't care if the tile got covered. then get a thinset floor levelling compound, spread that on evenly, then lay down a new floor material that has no crevices or grooves.

Answered on 09/30/2011 by SCOTT DISMUKES

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While I think the circa 1850 Poly is one of the best around, I would not use it for this purpose. It is not really suitable for building a layer that thick and feathering into the adjacent tile. (this is really not a job for a varnish or poly coating) I don't know why you would want to fill grout lines except perhaps as a prep for a new floor? If that is the case then simply grouting over flush would be the best bet. If you actually want to see the grout through a transparent fill coat the only real choice is to use an epoxy product. One of the ones that is meant for the 'bar-top' applications is what I would look at. (Having lots of experience with epoxy, tile and varnish (separately!) - my opinion.)

Answered on 09/13/2011 by JENNIFER PIVOVAR

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Hi Steve, I have only used this product in the manner of a substitute for varnish. I have done shelves and other wood projects with it with some very nice results. Having said that. why not try a small area first and see how it turns out. It is a hard finish and should accomplish what you are looking for. Hope this helps. Ed Miller

Answered on 09/30/2011 by ED MILLER
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Question

Can this product be used on an actual bowling alley? I have 2 lanes in my home and I am looking to refinish them.

Asked on 03/04/2015 by Scott Naylor

Top Answer

circa 1850 fast dry polyurethane should work well on ON BOWLING LANES.

Answered on 03/04/2015 by ALBERT FUNK
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I don't know why not it is a good finish, hard finish won't yellow and goes on easily. Loren Milligan

Answered on 03/04/2015 by LOREN MILLIGAN

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Scott I bought 4 quarts of Circa 1850 a couple of years ago. My son bought several sections of a bowling alley to make a kitchen table out of it. I was very pleased with the results. Followed directions on the can. And this went on very easy and with a smooth finish. The reason I bought this was because of the hard finish it gives the wood and brings out the coloring of the wood. I don't have a bowling alley but I won't think twice of not putting this product on it! So I don't know if I gave you the answer you where looking for or not? But I hope this helps.

Answered on 03/04/2015 by R V

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Sorry I don't know. I know it works well on furniture, but it doesn't take the abuse that a bowling ball will.

Answered on 03/04/2015 by PAUL ROBSON

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this stuff is awesome !! i would use it on any real wood floors ,i have used it ,in my house ,on oak hardwood floors that are very old ,and it is simply amazing ,a lot cheaper than hiring someone to strip and refinish ,i love the stuff ,you have to put it on thin and give plenty of time to dry .

Answered on 03/14/2015 by KAREN CLAYPOOL
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Question

Can this product be put over top of sanded epoxy? Would a brush or roller be recommended for coverage of large areas?

Asked on 01/28/2014 by John Hovan

Top Answer

Yes, this can be applied over a properly prepared epoxy. I actually think it is a good choice. I prefer to use a brush to apply, because I rarely use rollers for anything. I think the finish would lay out properly with a roller however.

Answered on 01/28/2014 by JENNIFER PIVOVAR
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Yes, works well over epoxy filler.

Answered on 01/29/2014 by CHRISTOPHER RAFFO

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good stuff easy to apply nice sheen, both satin and flat hard finish, good for cabin sole fast enough drying would I buy it again? yes Tom Kiley

Answered on 01/28/2014 by THOMAS KILEY

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I think the manufacturer will need to address the epoxy comparability question..my application was directly on clean wod teak/holly floorboards. As for the roller application, I am not sure much would be gained by this as you would likely need to tip it with a brush. From my recollection, the few passes the better and I think the thick nature of this and a roller would only introduce more bubbles. It is going on 4 yrs since I re-finished the floorboards with this product. Very pleased with the results...will use it again...in 20 years or so.

Answered on 01/31/2014 by REB BLANCHARD

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I have used it on small areas like nail holes and splits and it works great.

Answered on 01/28/2014 by JAMES INGRAHAM
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Question

Can this finish be used over a penetrating oil, like teak oil?

Asked on 07/10/2015 by david goose

Top Answer

I have used it over Circa Tung Oil and it works great. I talked to Circa and they said all of their products will work together.

Answered on 07/11/2015 by JAMES INGRAHAM
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Thanks James, I am making stair treads and a landing out of eastern cedar and want to keep the deep dark color the penetrating oil brings out, but as the cedar is so soft, the extra protection of the poly will be a huge benefit.

Answered on 07/11/2015 by david goose

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I wouldn't apply over a thicker coat of any oil; not a good idea; It's not a rough' surface...You're talking Oil..and that is slippery.

Answered on 09/04/2015 by Larry Risko

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Yes it can

Answered on 07/10/2015 by LOREN MILLIGAN
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Question

where to buy locally?

Asked on 12/01/2014 by Undisclosed

Top Answer

I don't know of any where you can buy it locally. I've used it in the past and it is a very good finish. I recommend it.

Answered on 12/01/2014 by PAUL ROBSON
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I don't know of any place locally I order from Jamestown.

Answered on 12/02/2014 by JAMES INGRAHAM

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I always purchase this item on online

Answered on 12/01/2014 by TAMAS KOLLAR

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I have never found it locally. Jamestown prices are actually quite fair.

Answered on 01/21/2015 by MARK PINTHER
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Question

Does the satin finish give you better wet surface traction over the gloss?

Asked on 01/28/2014 by John Hovan

Top Answer

I used it for a table so I'm not sure...

Answered on 01/29/2014 by CHRISTOPHER RAFFO
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I would think so...I believe I used the gloss and it can get a bit slick when wet. My application was interior and I have a rug right below the companion way.

Answered on 01/31/2014 by REB BLANCHARD

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Thanks Albert. Some have suggested to add "H & C Shark Grip Slip-Resistant Additive" to the polyurethane. It's a Sherwin Williams product.

Answered on 01/28/2014 by John Hovan

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The satin finish matches the existing finish on My hardwood floor. I roller skate on my floor, it is located in my house. The floor was originally done with a satin finish, so it's a matter of matching with the part of the floor I don't skate on. the satin finish provides better surface traction when wet over a dry surface. However I do not know if the satin finish provides better surface traction than gloss or semi gloss. Sorry not to be more helpful.

Answered on 01/28/2014 by ALBERT FUNK
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Question

put on 3 coats and now its streaky? Help

Asked on 12/19/2013 by Anne McLaughlin

Top Answer

If the grain is full and there are no more "hills and valleys" while looking across the grain then you are done. But I'd add one more coat just to be safe. One coat too many will never hurt, while one too few will cause premature failure.

Answered on 12/19/2013 by THOMAS KILEY
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Thanks Larry, The streaks were some shiny and some dull streaks. I think I didn't adequately stir the product. I was at the bottom of the can too, so I bought a new one today. Sanded and thinned the product a little and it looks much better. I will put another coat on and that should be it. I am doing the top of a kitchen island so it is good to know that it worked well on a kitchen counter top. Thanks again.

Answered on 12/20/2013 by Anne McLaughlin

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Can you tell the cause of the streaks? Are they an uneven surface or do they look like streaks of stain? In order to get a smooth finish with a brush it is necessary to apply a sufficient amount of material so that it does not thin out the coat and show brush marks. It is also important to keep the leading edge of the coat "wet" so that it blends in with the subsequent brushing as you move along finishing the piece. Finish that is applied over stain before the stain is adequately dried can draw the uncured stain into the finish itself and create a muddy or streaked appearance. It is also necessary to lightly sand with fine sandpaper between coats to help insure a more uniform finish. I used this product to refinish a maple kitchen counter top for a customer over three years ago, and it has proved to be an excellent product for that use.

Answered on 12/19/2013 by LARRY CERNIK

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Thanks Thomas

Answered on 12/20/2013 by Anne McLaughlin
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