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This was recommended by a friend last year. While more expensive than other finishes the outcome is worth it. Next step is to see if it holds up better than previous finishes. If all I need to do is put on a couple of maintenance coats every year, than this stuff will be great

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Heard a lot of good things, and wanted to love this Awlgrip product, but just not the case. Did my rocket launcher, as well as a solid teak table. Both by the letter of the law by Awlgrip. And still this product cannot deliver a finish without tiny speckles. I rolled and tipped it, I tried spraying it, ive done it literally dozens of times and sanded it all off and tried again. Sanded between coats...nope....even reduced final coats with reducer @20% still get tiny bubbles/speckles suspended in the finish. Seems like the solvents aren't escaping properly....very disappointed, as the finish (after 8 coats) otherwise seem beautiful, and durable and hard...and clear. But for the money AND The hassle doesn't seem worth it. West epoxy would be easier with better results. Not sure what the "Pros" are to this product either...you have to primer, then wait until dry b4 1st coat (don't wait too long or you have to re sand and start over) then apply 1st coat, let dry 24hrs, then sand with 320, then apply 2nd coat...then wait 24, then sand....then and only then can you reapply multiple coats in one day (after dry to the touch) without sanding in between,.....to ....wait for it....a total of 8 coats!! take you a full work week to finish a piece! ....pffft.....yeah its a hassle ....ill pass. (read the spec sheet) https://specialtycoatings.brand.akzonobel.com/m/70046a52d62c3a1f/original/Awlwood_Clear_Gloss_eng_A4_20210219.pdf

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Everyone is out of stock of the gloss, onlly primer is available. Was hoping to put on a spring coat, hopefully more stock will come in, so now a fall recoat I guess.......

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This was used on a 17 year old Sabre. Stern, toe rails, decorative strips and helm deck. It made an unbelievable transformation in the appearance and texture of the wood.

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Sprayed 10 coats of awlwood on my 1954 wood boat. Turned out pretty good

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After decades of carefully thinning for penetration, careful between-coat sandings, insistence on using only natural bristle brushes, waiting for perfect weather conditions and all the other esoterica that accompanies varnishing with my favorite Dutch varnish products, I was skeptical that this other Dutch coating could do better. I was wrong. I am completely converted to Allwood MA for all of my exterior varnish requirements. Once the wood is stripped and sanded- the correct starting place for any varnish project- then the magic begins. The primer penetrates deeply into the wood and is catalyzed by humidity- water vapor- into a strong, flexible substrate instead of a thin, brittle layer per normal thinned varnish. Teak will generally need only 1-2 coats for full penetration; mahogany at least two. Make sure you mask well, as the stuff runs and spreads like alcohol or water. It takes a good 24 hours for the primer to fully cure. You may see small bubbles on the surface after the cure. This is completely normal, as it is the residue of the primer catalyzing and "boiling off" in the process, particularly where there is checking or a large-ish joint. Your wood will now look like it's already finished. It's not. Do a light 220 sanding to smooth off all the tiny bumps. This will also give you a good hint where you are with your topcoat, as with normal varnishing. The topcoat goes on like syrup. Don't worry it in like we do with varnish; use a couple three passes with the brush, and always feather into the wet edge, like normal. Don't go back. Keep up the pace until you've covered the area with its full first top coat. Wait 45 minutes to an hour, and do it again. And again, and again. You honestly don't need to sand between coats, but I do a light touch anyway so I can see where I'm going. The literature says you can do up to six coats a day, which I believe, but I usually quit after three, because I'm getting tired of it, and I know I can easily do three more tomorrow

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I redid my whole 44 ft boat with this and it went great

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Covering teak on sailboat

I have an old Friendship Sloop with spruce spars, teak cockpit, teak rails, and lots of teak trim. I used this as a test 5 years ago on the lazarette hatches which are horizontal, exposed to the sun, and get stepped on regularly -- net, they look brand new. I have now done all spars, cockpit, and most of trim, as well as wood interior with this product, gradually replacing all varnish If you have spruce, use clear primer, as colored primers will blotch. After three gloss coats, sand with 220 to smooth, then add 10% of yellow primer to gloss for three coats, sand, and apply two more coats, then sand with 320 or 400, and apply last coat of gloss thinned 10% with brush reducer. Use gloss first as you do not want to sand into colored coats much. Sanding is only to smooth surface, coats chemically bond. Apply fairly quickly, rotate spars every few minutes for half an hour to avoid sags. Don't try to clean brushes, throw away. Best timing I found is primer in pm, then gloss next am after 18 hours, then gloss pm, then gloss next am, wait 24 hours, sand, start with gloss coats again (goes on smoother over prior coat that has had time to cure a bit more than min time to recoat). Read instructions well.

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Looks great! I used this on all my cabin sole.

Almost ready to install